Help, can't remove rear axle nut!
 

I am having a very difficult time removing the rear axle nut. I used a breaker bar 1/2 in drive with a 30 mm 1/2 in axle socket with a pipe extension to 4 ft. after heating up the nut for 5 min. No luck. Should I go to the 3/4 in breaker bar and a 3/4 in 30 mm socket or should I try to cut the nut and use a cold chisel to remove them? Are there replacement axle nuts one can buy? I've been at this for two weeks now.

Thanks,

John

What kind of car is this? I did this on my Carrera with no problem and again last week on my 993 with no problem. I used very slow and steady pressure, same tools you have. Maybe you can mount the wheel back onto the car with the center cap removed and fit the socket onto the nut through that hole and then use the weight of the car. Is it just spinning with the e-brake on or what exactly is the problem? A 4 ft. breaker bar should easily provide enough torque to break it loose. Worst case is you have to take it to a shop with a 1000 ft./lbs. air gun and then put it back on not so tight and take her back home.

Axle
 

Mine is a 72 911. It must be the PO/or shop torque the hell out of it. The spring plates are off at this point. I have the jack supporting the rear trailing arm. It doesn' t move. I put a 3/4" pipe acting as a counter lever; as I tried to remove the nut counterclockwise, it bent the the 3/4 " STEEL pipe. I am trying to replace the rear trailing arm bushing. The axle nuts are the two last nuts to remove. I removed the calipers already. Only the shock absorbers are next.

John

I used a 3/4" drive socket, 3/4" drive breaker bar, a 4-foot 1.5" steel pipe, and I stood on the end of the pipe. Use something (bricks, wood) to support the head of the breaker bar (right next to the nut) so that it doesn't lever off and round the nut. When I researched this job on the BBS, consensus seemed to be that 1/2" drive is inadequate. The torque spec for this nut is something like 400 ft/lb! (Don't quote me on the exact figure) So that's 100 lbs of force applied to the end of a 4-foot bar.

You may wanna try putting a floor jack under the breaker bar and moving it up that way.

Penetrant, heat, penetrant, tap on the bolt to "break" rusted buildup. Keep at it - it will give.

John

I did this last year. 3/4" and a 3 foot breaker bar was the only way I could get that thing to move. It wasn't too difficult with the right tools. Keep in mind that you are going to need a 3/4" torque wrench with about a 400 ft lb capacity to get it back together. These wrenches are expensive (almost $600 new)
Parts stores sometimes loan these tools out. I got a really nice one for under $100 on ebay. Where are you located? If you can't find one, let me know.

I used a 1/2" breaker bar and a cheater pipe and mine broke loose without alot of drama...

Mike

The 85.5 and later cars use a nut that is torqued to 340 lb-ft. The earlier cars use a castle nut that is torqued to 240 lb-ft, I believe. That extra 100 lb-ft is enough to break most 1/2 in. drive extensions. I had to go with 3/4 in. drive because I kept breaking extensions.

The replacement nut is easily available from Pelican. But keep at it with the breaker bar. Maybe go to 3/4 in? Is the 1/2 in. tool flexing? I know mine was when I tried it on my car.

BTDT...had to use a 3/4" breaker bar AND a 4' section of black pipe as a cheater bar. I actually BROKE a 1/2" breaker bar before going with the 3/4" one.

I used a impact wrench for my '73

The movie phrase; "We're going to need bigger guns!" comes to mind.:D This is 3/4" square drive torque range; I used a 10 to 1 planetary torque multiplier (3/4" output) with a very big reaction lever positioned against the floor. Impact is okay for coming off but isn't satisfactory for obtaining the installation torque. Cheers, Jim

All correct. John's calculation that this will take 100 lbs on a 4-ft extension may be understated. It takes much more force to remove a nut than to install it. So, it may easily take 600 lb/ft to get this thing off.

The boys are right again. Use a 3/4" breaker bar and socket, and a LONG extension pipe. Mine is five feet long, and I have had to put some pretty scary force on it at times. when the nut breaks loose, you'll be able to hear it for two blocks at least.

Right tool for the job is an impact wrench. You will eventually need to reinstall to proper torque and of course you can't do that with the impact, but first things first...get it off.

Having wasted a lot of time on a lot of different makes and models doing this same thing, several trips to tool stores, flagging down Snap- On trucks, etc, all I can say is....put wheel back on, drive to nearest shop, have 'em spin it off with impact wrench, hand tighten, drive home. Done.

You CAN get it with a breaker bar, cheater, penetrant, tapping, etc - but that will all take longer and carries some measure of danger with it as you manually apply continuous pressure waiting for that sucker to break free and you to fall or bash your hand on a fender lip.

A couple of bucks to the guy at the nearest Chevron worked for me until I ponied up for the compressor and air tools.

I bought a really cheap 3/4" drive set from Harbor Freight when I did my rear axles. Its not exactly finely crafted tools, but the price was right for something that I wasnt going to use too often. I used my AC Hydraulics floor jack to do the work... :)

Yep/ditto.

Torque spec
 

Right now putting it back is not an option. The torque spec on this year is 240 ft.lb. (?) Maybe it got torque to 340 ft.lb. on the later models

John

P.S. I did break the 1/2 in breaker bar doing this. I guess it will be the 3/4 in breaker bar. Sears has one for about $46. How about cutting off the castelated nut?

Cutting off the nut sounds like potential for trouble. You'll end up replacing the axle shaft if you booger the threads.

If all else fails, find a friend who works heavy construction and knows of someone who operates the service truck? Those guys have to service some heavy equipment and have a bada$$ impact wrench on the truck.

Try this (sorry for bad quality):

http://project911.luminasweden.com/l...2-5220_IMG.JPG