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Join Date: Feb 2002
Location: Scituate, MA
Posts: 1,301
Boge inserts

Are inserts as easy to install as rated in 101 Projects (2 wrench). After a quick read, it appears that you basically jack the car up, pull the tire off, loosen and take off big bolt under hood, push down on insert and get whole shock to stick out side of wheel well. Remove insert, and then reverse the steps. What am I am missing? I know nothing is this easy?

Do I need to remove the calipers, caliper shield, ball joints, etc..

Thanks again,

David

Old 04-13-2004, 07:43 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Central TX west of Houston
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actually it is pretty much that easy, you can make it harder, but it doesn't have to be. If you are comfortable bleeding brakes then it would be better to disconnect the rubber brake hose.

The top bolt can be a pain, it's easier with an impact.
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Steve
'08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960
- never named a car before, but this is Charlotte.
'88 targa SOLD 2004 - gone but not forgotten
Old 04-13-2004, 07:46 AM
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Location: Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
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It is basically what you say. You will have to find some means to support the hub/rotor/brake ass'y so as to not stretch and bind your brake hose. Or remove it and have to bleed your brakes. The shock retaining nut requires a spanner wrench that may come with new inserts. I think Bilstein sends you one. But they are weak. The nut is really tight. So there you are, cranking on the nut, the steering turning unless you put a Club on the wheel and the strut flopping around because it's detached. It's a lot of fun.

Once you do it, though, it gets easier each time. The easiset part is the insert itself. Just pull the old one out and drop the new one in. There should be some light oil in the strut tube to transfer shock generated heat to the outside tube. Do not be alarmed if you find the insert dripping with oil. Remember how all the parts came off like the dust cover and the snubber. You want to get that stuff back on in the right order.

Edit: Some use a pipe wrench on the shock retaining nut. It will leave scars on the nut, but most I've seen have scars already. They can't be seen with the cover on, but it's still a crude way to do it. I've wondered about grinding two flats on the nut to use a big monkey wrench in the future. borrow a spanner if you can.

Last edited by Zeke; 04-13-2004 at 07:57 AM..
Old 04-13-2004, 07:52 AM
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Join Date: Oct 2003
Location: N. of Detroit
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Just did it. Tips:
1) Use an impact wrench. Then you don't have to use a pipe wrench, steering wheel lock, etc. BTW, a 7/8 socket is 22mm, which is the size of the nut. You will need the pipe wrench to loosen/tighten the large cap that screws into the strut body.
2) There will be an incredible seal between the strut body and insert making it near impossible to pull the strut out. Take a small drill bit and by hand drill a hole in the rubber seal between the insert and strut body. The insert will come out no problem then.
3) Use an old T-shirt and a long screwdriver to jam the T-shirt into the strut body and soak up all the old oil. There will be a decent amount.
4) Use new tab washers when reinstalling the replacement inserts. The washer is keyed to the shock rod. People have said the nut comes loose over time and that they periodically retorque, which is riduculous when you can simply buy the 50 cent washer and forget about it. There's a reason the factory used them.

Outside of that, it's one of the simplest jobs you'll perform on you Porsche.

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'68 911 Ossi Blue coupe
Old 04-13-2004, 08:15 AM
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