Rear Camber and Toe Alignment ???

[Cosi1]

We are attempting to settle on a reliable and efficient process for alignment of the rear of torsion bar cars - paticularly 1974 thru 1989 911 models.

We would welcome DETAILED, step-by-step suggestions on what you find works well, and will be happy to telephone you to discuss your process if you do not wish to write it all out.

Thanks in advance,
Ed LoPresti
RacePro Engineering
New York
607-535-4237

[stlrj]

Wouldn't it be just as easy to watch the alignment being done on the rack while taking notes?

[Cosi1]

Hello, stlrj,

You are absolutely right, ordinarily that would be the easiest way. However, we have found that most shops are "making it up as they go", using the trial and error approach, the same way we are!

I am hoping that Bill or Chris or Chuck or John chime in here with a nice, neat, orderly, and EFFECTIVE PROCESS:
1. Do this
2. Do that
3. Loosen this
4. Tighten that
5. Check this
6. Pound here
6.a. Watch out for that
7. Pry bar here
8. Tighten everything up.

Any other suggestions?
LoPresti

[addictionMS]

Adjust ride height, and corner weights first, them using strings, I set toe, tighten the toe adjuster bolts, adjust camber (digital camber gauge), tighten the camber bolts, then tighen the bolts that hold the banana arm to the swing arm. The only real trick is not not loosen the banana/swing arm bolts too much so tightening them does not take out slack and change the settings and remember to undo the sway bars.

After done, re-check everything

there are some good basic write ups on the SRP website describing how to use their tools to get the job done, and the procedure applies in general as well.

not sure I did anything but state the obvious, but I don't know what else to add, maybe others have more knowledge than I.

Jim

PS your should pry bar here --->

[dickster]

ed,

doesnt it depend on what equipment you're using?

i'm doin mine with limited basic tools - but then i;m no track demon....

[Cosi1]

Jim, Thanks again. I am asking for a couple points of clarification on the racing forum. I am also using the shop pry bar where it will have the most benefit!

Rich, You are absolutely right about the facilities and equipment available. I posed the same question on the racing forum, but specified attempting this at the track, under less than ideal conditions. In those situations, we have a minimum of calibration equipment and tools (and TIME) available.

Thank you, gentlemen!
LoPresti

[Pat S]

http://www.smartracingproducts.com/pdfs/Sections_5-14_403.pdf

See the page labeled "12"

[cowtown]

Have any of you ever been able to adjust rear camber/toe with the car on the ground, weight on the tires? I've always had to jack it up to adjust, and it's very repetitive.

[addictionMS]

I always have the car o the ground, sort of, I took a 12x4 beam of wood and cut it into sections to put under the wheels, and made shims to level them in a particular spot in the garage. I can get to all the bolts that way and not have to jack and unjack the car.

I usually put the rear wheels in to my Camber plates, really just two sheets of medium thick aluminum sheet wiht oil between them, makes things easier as well. But you have to be carfull not to move the entire car between the strings.

Jim