I admit the system ended up costing more than I expected and I now understand why the professional shops can't offer EFI for cheap.

The injector blocks are the hardest part to find at a reasonable cost. I still think that it might be possible to sleeve the stock blocks if you had a good set to begin with. Thats how this whole post started!

The cam sensor, idle valve and some of the air filter cost along with the fuel filter is optional. The fuel lines and fittings could have been done for less with plain rubber fuel lines and brass fittings. You could also find a cheaper regulator especially if you run an inline system rather than splitting the supply and return as this project did.
The sensors were clearly overpriced and would need to be purchased in bulk to be reasonable. Some ecu's come with a wiring harness that you just cut to length and add connectors, mine did not.
The wiring cost also included rebuilding the old harness. I used high quality aircraft wire, a lot of shielded cable and doubled up on the shrink tube.
Besides that, it was a ton of time and work, but was very rewarding the moment the engine fired.

I'm very impressed with your project magic, you certainly finished up much sooner than many who have started their efi projects. I'm anxious to hear a back to back comparison between the CIS and EFI when your fully tuned. I could use a little "justification" to get me off my butt;)

Just an update on the Goingsuperfast injector blocks. Looks like they have finished machining now and the result looks much better at a price of $480

http://www.goingsuperfast.com/EFI930.html

Btw, whats the extra threaded hole for?

Looks like the extra hole might be for rail mounts.

Magic, how did you connect the stainless lines to the original 930 fuel lines? Is there a standard fitting that converts from one to the other?

Anyone consider going with Accel DFI and their Dual snyc distributor? I'm currently setting this up for a forced induction non-Pcar engine right now. It seems like a good alternative for cost and ease, only having to come up with the hardware from someone like Magic930 if he markets or Tbitz.

125shifter...

I replaced the fuel filter with a Mallory filter, then used a metric to 3/8NPT for supply into it. On the return I went from -6AN to a barbed 1/4NPT" on the return line. I bought these particular fittings from American Hose and Fitting. (www.americanhose.com)

Luke I have the Accel DFI Gen 7 on my 1991 911 turbo. I have ran the Accel gen 6's in a few of my stangs. I can get Accel stuff faster than anyone. All ECU's come with a base map in them that will have the car up and running. If anyone needs something let me know and I will put them in contact with my tuner who is the top Accel tuner in the country.

Eric

Looks like they are looking better cosmetically. I wonder about the fuel injector placement in regards to where it shoots into the head. All the injector blocks I've seen look very similar in design, but I wonder whether they differ in where and how effectively the spray pattern is aimed? That would be critical I would think?

Damn, it looks like GSF just upped the price on the injector blocks.

For that kind of money I might just make my own.

Hope everybody noticed that PJMARKOW has a successful EFI conversion running using the stock plastic blocks. check out this thread for a picture:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/911-engine-rebuilding-forum/193116-engine-finished.html

Finally got some time to add a few more photos of the project. The car is running great now after pulling it to fix some oil leaks. Street tuning is going slow but not impossible. Most difficult is getting good clean starts without touching the throttle.



The coil is a VW VR6 coilpack It fits nicely mounted on the intake and in this position can use stock length plug wires. Also in this picture is a KN filter, this one should flow enough air for up to 440HP if you plan on more HP you will need a larger one.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1104636282.jpg

The next picture is the Oil temp sensor. Some people insist on trying to put this in a flow of oil which might have quicker response but would be more difficult to install, others have put this in the engine case breather cover but there is no oil flowing there. Since the stock CIS oil temp sensors were all located in the cam chain covers I thought this should work out OK (and it does). Using one of the old 14mm temp sensors, I drilled it out and tapped it for this 12mm bosch sensor.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1104636637.jpg

The cam sensor (only needed for sequential injection). A small magnet is screwed into the air pump pulley. The sensor protrudes thru a hole drilled in the cover. Credit for this design goes to Norm.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1104636963.jpg

The intake air temp sensor is installed in the hole which used to hold the cold start injector, it taps easily to 12mm.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1104637238.jpg

The DTA P8 ECU under the drivers seat. Powered by 3 seperate relay circuits one for the ECU, one for the injectors and misc, and one for the coils. The three circuits is overkill but it allowed me to put an LED on each one so I know they are each getting power.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1104637570.jpg

Wide band O2 sensor. Designed to be easily removed from the top if needed. This is an essential component if you plan to do street tuning.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1104637677.jpg

Happy New Year!!!
David

Nice update David. I like the cam sensor install though I will have to use a slightly different mounting strategy. I will have to build mine in order to pass the California visual inspection. With other projects on the horizon(3.6 RSR backdate for my brother) I don't want to be doing a parts swap every two years or count on my favorite smog guy looking the other way. Now if Natchamp would just finish those blocks......;)

Has anyone tried a rising rate fuel pressure regulator? It uses boost reference to raise the fuel pressure, allowing you to use a smaller injector for better driveability. Some of the non-Porsche turbo guys use them.

http://www.cartech.net/fmu2020.htm

They're unreliable and have a tendancy to stick. You're best using a normal regulator that ups the pressure 1 psi in the fuel rail for 1 psi of boost. With proper EFI there is no reason to not use proper injectors and regulators.

David, thanks for the pics. I'm getting close to attaching sensors on my rebuild and these pics have clarified some of the issues.

Do you use the oil temp sensor as an on/off for the start up enrichment or do you use the full range of the temp for a fuel map?

The oil temp is used for a startup enrichment map and continued enrichment of the main fuel map as the car warms up.

For example at 20degrees (C), I am using 100% enrichment for 10 engine turns then falling to 25%. After startup is achieved the temp sensor parameter map takes effect, as the engine warms to 40degrees (C) the enrichment has fallen to 5% and beyond that there is no enrichment. Startup is a tricky condition... part of the problem is pressure compensation. At idle there is negative pressure... a pressure compenstaion map removes fuel based on vaccuum so the temp enrichment has to balance this out when the engine is cold or it will stall. I have a great idle once the engine is warmed for a few minutes but I usually keep my foot on the throttle a little to keep it running at the moment.

I am actually working on the start map today trying to get a better start. I am finding that small adjustments make a big difference for ease or difficulty during startup. I have managed to completely flood and foul the plugs more than once while messing with these maps, requiring removal, cleaning and drying of the plugs. Luckily with all the CIS and airpump stuff gone the plugs are easily accessable and can be removed and reinstalled in 10 minutes!

magic930,

Here is what I do with my EFI kits that help idle control.

I have one column at 900rpm which is the absolute minimum idle I expect and I tune the VE entries so the engine idles well at 900rpm when warm. Then I create another column at 700rpm which I never expect the engine to idle and set the VE entries at 50% richer than the column at 900rpm.

What this does is the engine runs at 900rpm initially and then if it tries to stumble, rpm drops. When this happens the ECU imediately dumps 50% more fuel as the rpm drops below 900rpm, which brings the engine rpm back up. The engine quickly finds a happy rpm which it runs at.

Note it is best to fix all other things like cold enrichement, idle up, cold start priming, and use the above technique as a backup.

Cheers,

Tony

Thanks Tony,
I tried your suggestion and it really helped I can now get started without using the throttle. I had previously started my fuel map at 950 now its at 750... Unfortunately I now have a hunting idle which I will have to figure out.

David

Try reducing the enrichment to correct the hunting issue.