Ahhhhhhh! Perserverance is such a wonderful thing! :D :D :D :D :D

A little closer examination showed that the fork wasn't engaging right, it kept slipping behind the wheel. Once I was able to get that to work right, BAM! A little jiggling and on she went. time to tighten the nuts, install the starter and she's ready to go back in...WOOHOOOO!!!SmileWavy

Randy

All ready to go back in...getting closer and closer!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084721395.jpg

Anything I should be wary of during the re-install?

edit: I suppose now would be the time I fill the tranny case with oil? I have 4 quarts of Mobile 1 (Synthetic) and from what I've been reading, I only need to use 3. Also, Swepco 201 seems to be the brand of choice...how much of a difference would I notice? Especially given the fact that I have no idea what was in there before.

Randy

WOW! Impressive to say the least. I was feeling a bit intimidated about rebuilding my tranny, but you managed to make it look pretty easy. I have my engine on my garage floor right now, and am on my way out the door to pick up some sockets that I will be needing to take the tranny appart. Am I right in saying that I need a 41mm and a 30mm and that is all???? Please let me know, and CONGRATS on finishing that job!!!!

Randy,

you put the tranny on upside down :eek: Just kidding, awsome job. Make sure you have enough Swepco 201 oil in it and slap the package back into the car. Let us know how it shifts once you are done.

Go Randy Go!!!

CD,

You'll need two big sockets to get into the Intermediate Housing. A 27mm and a 41mm. I couldn't find a 41mm anywhere I looked so I did the math and ended up using a 1 7/16. It felt a little "sloppy" on the nut, but it did the trick just fine. I believe it was John Walker who recommended that.

If you need to get into third and fourth gear, you'll need another socket. I'm not sure of the size, but I think it was a 43mm. (You may be able to use a wrench, if you can find one that size) Matt (UTKarmann_Ghia) can tell you the size for sure. He actually has a thread here on Pelican that shows how he manufactured his own 12" deep socket for the nut on 3-4. It's pretty slick.

I can't recommend enough the importance of taking pictures EVERY step along the way. I've taken over 70 pictures since I started this job and posted pretty much all of them. Most of them were used in asking questions, but I posted several here on the chance that I needed a reference when it came time to put it back together. I've used them all.

Most importantly, read and re-read the advice you'll surely get from the guys here on Pelican. These guys are LOADED with all the information you will ever need.

Good Luck!

Randy

i would suggest not using the synthetic gear oil first off. use a GL-5 rated 85/90 like kendall. synthetics can be too slippery for this type of syncro. they rely on friction to work properly.

A few more questions...
1.) The wires for the Reverse Sensor aren't connected to a plug, they're "loose" inside their boot. Holding it in place, the wires kinda had a natural line up to be connected like this. Does it make a difference which wire plugs into each socket?

2.) Also on the Reverse Sensor...since I am hanging the Engine and Transmission as one assembly, can I connect it up now, or should I wait until I have it all hung?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084732884.jpg

3.) Is this the Upper Plug where I pour the Tranny fluid? (Right in the center of the pic)
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084732948.jpg

Thanks, guys!

Randy

Randy,

no difference. It's just a simple switch so you can connect them either way. Make sure you fill the tranny with gear oil before you put the motor in. It's a lot easier rather than crawling under the car and try not to spill the stuff.

Ingo

I hope I'm not hijacking your thread here. Can you tell me how you lock the tranny into two gears at the same time to keep the shafts from spinning? I don't have the special tool to lock the input shaft.

Also, what did you use to clean your tranny and engine?

CD,

To engage 2nd and 5th at the same time, just follow the directions in this pic.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084742820.jpg
You can use this method when you put it back together and have to torque the same two nuts.

To clean my parts I used a spray bottle of stuff I got from AutoZone called Greased Lightening. Comes in a purple bottle. Spray it on and scrub it with a plastic detailing brush. Then wipe it all off with those heavy duty blue paper towels...plan on going through quite a few of those. :D

Got a few questions myself for everyone...actually, where the he!! can I find the proper tranny oil? Tried AutoZone, Advance Auto, Pep Boys, even Home Depot (since they were on the way) and all anyone carries is synthetic oil, either 70-90 or 85-140. I'll stop by Automobile Atlanta tomorrow on the way to work and see what they have.

Also, isn't Swepco 201 a synthetic?

Randy

Randy, the swepco is not really available at a regular store. You really need to order it either from our host or someplace similar.

The only place locally may be at a porsche shop that might have some.

I just found your thread here. Very impressive work. I may have to do a similar task at some point. I may have to ask you now that you are experienced.:D

Ask away Jerry! I'd be glad to share whatever knowledge and experience I've gained here. That's what it's all about. While I am far from being the expert like some of these guys, I have just had all this stuff in my hands. And sometimes and extra set of hands or eyes really makes a difference.

I figured that was the case with the Swepco, but even the Kendall stuff that John Walker recommended is just not to be found. All the stores either carry a full line of synthetics or some off the wall brand called "Coastal" If anyone has heard of this company, can you fill me in?

Randy

Thanks for the explanation rcecale! Worked like a charm. I had to bolt up the tranny to the engine though to get the damn bolt off. Wow that thing was tight. I now have my tranny apart, and the output shaft apart. My 1st and 2nd syncros are shot. None of the teeth are broken off though. Now I just hope I can remember how to put that all back together once my parts come in the mail. I might do what you did and not touch the input shaft with 3rd and 4th since it looks like it's untouched. Thanks for the help.

Take a good look at the teeth. They should be very pointed and have crisp edges on them. From what I've learned, if they're rounded off, shifting can be real touchy. Since you're taking 1-2 apart, it may be a good idea to just change them out and safe you some future troubles.

Randy

any GL-5 rated gear oil will work, regardless of brand. they all have to meet S.A.E. specs.

Okay, the Swepco 201 is in. From what I have read, the proper procedure is basically just to fill the case slowly, until it starts to run out the fill hole, like this.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084837618.jpg

Then, leaving the drip pan in place, let the stuff dribble out until it stops. The fill line is actually the bottom of the fill hole.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084838514.jpg

Also, from what I have read, filling the 915 case should take right around 3 quarts of oil. When I was filling this one, it took almost the entire gallon. The is about 1/2 to 1 inch of oil still in the jug. Could this extra amount be due to the case having been disassembled?

I double-checked as I was writing this and the case appears to be level.

Randy

edit: Don't be alarmed about the orange color on the case....that's just glare from the flashlight. :cool:

ooooo, you just GOTTA love the soothing blue color of Swepco 201 :D

Mine seemd to take a bit more than 3 quarts but less than 4 also.

It does have a "different" look to it, doesn't it? I mean, Anti-Freeze is typically green, or yellow, motor oil is honey brown, and ATF and Brake Fluid is typically red....but I've never seen BLUE Fluid in a car before. This project has been loaded with "Firsts" for me. :D

Randy

rcecale, from one of the pics, it looks as though you have not installed the shift-rod seal into the nose cone casting? If you havent done this yet, be sure to polish the exposed part of the shift-rod to remove any rough spots. This will help that seal live a longer life as this rod plunges as well as rotates..

Looks great!!

Chris

Actually, Chris, I have installed the shaft seal. That's a great idea to polish the shaft, it may be a bit late but I'll wipe it all down and get it cleaner. I did wipe it down while it was out of the tranny, but a little more wouldn't hurt.! :)

Randy