Randy, are you talking about the half shafts that go into the tranmission? I'm not sure if you've done this, but the CV joints have to be loosed first. These are the shafts that go from the transmission to the wheels. Just take off the bolts on the transmission side, not the wheel side (they can stay).

I didnt use 3 jacks, 2 were enuf. I put the car on ramps, disconnected the CV joints against the tranny, disconnected everything else except the 2 engine cross bar bolts in the engine compartment. Then I put a small jack under the nose of the tranny (you can also use a jack stand too), put my big jack under the engine with a piece of plywood between it and the jack as to not hurt the engine. Then I pull out the 2 engine cross bar bolts and slowly lower the engine onto a dolly or a couple of 2x4s so I can slide it. I positioned the jack pad just in front of my oil drain plate, but since you do not have one of those, put it a little forward of half way the size of the engine. That should give it a decent balance point.

Up and at it early on a Sunday morning, John? Well, I, for one really appreciate it.

I think I have it worked out. I was actually thinking the transmission cradle was the sway bar. I'll go ahead and drop the real sway bar and also the cradle.

The 19mm bolts on each end of the cradle seem awfully tight, in relation to all the others I've encountered. Is there anything I should be aware of with these things, or do I just need to twist harder?

also, it looks as though I may have everything else disconnected. I checked and re-checked all around the sides and to the rear of the engine and there doesn't seem to be anything still connected. Can't get a good, clear shot of the area in front of the engine, but from what I can see, it looks good. Just need to pop the throttle linkage loose, find that connection for the reverse sensor and then remove the sway bar and cradle...then she should be ready to drop. Perhaps right on schedule.

Proceeding slowly, and hopefully safely! :D

Randy

Randy, The half axles have to come loose and the sway bar has to come out. The tranmission mount with the two 19mm bolts !!stays!! on the transmission. If you take the two 19mm bolts out without support under the tranny it'll DROP!!!. Those two 19mm and the two at the front of the engine (fan side) are the four bolts that hold the entire engine/tranny package in the car.

I won't be reading this for the next 20 hours. I am on my way to Taiwan. Once there I will check back. Good luck. And please ask as many Q's as you want before doing something you are not 100% clear about.

Ingo

Ingo, thanks for saving my a$$!!! :eek:

I haven't messed with the 19mm bolts because, like I said, they just seemed a little snugger than anything else. they are still tight and in place...whew!

And trust me, I am definitely asking questions throughout this entire process, if I'm not sure. They sway bar is on the way out right now.

Randy

Just a few more pics that I've taken along the way:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1082919180.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1082919204.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1082919218.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1082919237.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1082919254.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1082919271.jpg

John, this next shot is from the passenger side of the tranny. This is the closest I can come to any kind of boot for the reverse sensor. It's located right between the starter and the CV joint. Can you give me a more specific location of where to look?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1082919407.jpg

Also, is this two-wire bundle the speedo wiring I need to feed back through the tunnel? The PO also ran a vacuum hose through there, so I may just have to cut them and rejoun them on re-assembly...after I re-route the vacuum hose.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1082919511.jpg

Thanks for all the info guys, you're really making this job a lot easier for this rookie! :D

Randy

the reverse wires are on the end cover of the trans, between the trans mount and the firewall. right next to where the shifter comes out of the end cover. that looks like the speedo connector alright. the brown wire bundle comes off at the intake, and the fuel lines at the top of the filter and behind #3 intake get separated. don't forget the multi-pin connector by the top of the left rear shock.

Okay, the brown bundles had been removed from the manifold, all the fuel lines are disconnected and the multi-pin plug has also been disconnected.

I believe I found the reverse sensor...can't tell you how many times I looked right at it and thought that it wasn't it. Can you confirm I got the right thing?

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1082922773.jpg

Also, with the reverse sensor and the speedo cable disconnected, I believe I am ready to lower the car. I've got the dolly in place to set underneath the engine as she comes down, just wanna make sure I can use the jack in this location without tearing anything up.

John, this is the same alternate location I asked you about yesterday
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1082923008.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1082923027.jpg

Randy

Does not look like you have enough clearance to pull the engine out. On a stock Carrera, you can remove the bumper and the valence to get another 8-10 inches. Not sure what you can do with your modified bumper.

Hi, yelcab1!

The plan, after lowering the engine to the dolly is to raise the rear end back up with a jack under the 2 X 4 at the rear of the floor pan. I'm hoping that will give me enough clearance without having to remove the rear bumper and valence.

My concern before lowering it, though, is whether or not the location of my jack pad will cause any damage to the engine case.

Thanks!

Randy

Randy, You should really have a piece of board between the floor jack and motor, IMO, it is a lot of extra protection and will spread the load a little. A piece of 3/4 plywood about wide enough to fit between heat exchangers and maybe 1-1/2 to 2 feet long is perfect. The center of gravity for the engine+trans together is approx. under the two cylinders closest to the transmission. (This is refered to as the "rear" of the 911 motor, even though it is the end towards the front of the car. The end that attaches to trans= rear of motor).

Take a couple minutes to study this photo:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1082934251.jpg

Grady


Dennis,

Thank you, nice image. I’ll use it on some MFI threads.

Yes, it is very worthwhile to build yourself a custom wood adapter between your jack and your particular engine. Properly done you won’t damage the engine and it is reasonably attached to the jack. Knowing the location of the CG is very important. I note you don’t have the muffler installed on your ‘72T. Randy has an ‘86SC which is both heavier and probably the CG is slightly different.

Everyone who is DIY and regularly R&Rs his engine and/or transmission should make their own jack-to-engine wood adaptor..

Randy, it looks like you are making proper progress. Good for you. I keep watching and you are getting great advice.

Best,
Grady

IT'S OUT!!!!! IT'S OUT!!!!! IT'S OUT!!!!!

Found the number to a local Pelican-head, Jay Houghton (jhoughton) and gave him a ring. Not only was he able to offer some great advice, he actually showed up 5 minutes after I called him, bringing help, Josh Roberts. What a couple of heroes! Thanks to both of these guys, the engine and tranny are now out and sitting on the furniture dolly! I can't thank these two enough! SmileWavy

With the three of us in position we used the two floor jacks, one under the engine and the other under the tranny, to lower the set to the furniture dolly. there were a few small snags, wire bundles from the rear of the engine that got hung, but those were caught before any damage was done.

Still gotta thank everyone here who helped also...there is absolutely no way I could have done this myself, manual or no manual.

But....now that the engine and tranny are down, the real fun begins. I'll be opening up the tranny this week to have a look. I'm sure I'll have a million more question for everyone. Thank you all so much!

Randy

P.S. My first engine drop just wouldn't be complete without the obligatory engine bay shot!
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1082944777.jpg

Randy,

Yah hoo, good for you. No injury to you or the 911. See, Pelicans come through, on line and in person. Hats off to Jay and Josh. I like the smile.

Now for the important stuff.

Best,
Grady

There's nothing like a few Pelican heads lending a hand. It's amazing how much faster it goes with a guy who's done it a few times before. After this, you'll be able to do it yourself without any problems, but why would you since you've got Pelican brethren nearby ;)

Attaboy, Randy! http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/wat6.gif

Grady, I actually pulled that picture off of the Pelican catalogue site, they sell a couple of adaptors that replace the saddle on a floor jack. One for motor only, and one for motor+trans, (pictured). I have an SC that we rebuilt about a year ago, could have used that adaptor at the time. All you really need is an extra set of hands attached to an experienced brain, though. ;)

I understand that you were dropping 911 motors back when I was in grade school, just wanted to add my appreciation for your presence here. I am also a skier, so I'm familiar w/ your beautiful part of the world. :cool:

(Randy, sorry to interrupt)
This reads like a suspense story!
You guys are heroes...
Awesome, medals to Ingo, John W. (talk about professional ethics!!!), Grady, Matt and the others...
Stay in there, Randy!

Randy,

Congrats you did it. Now let the fun part begin when you rip into the tranny. And cheers to all fellow Pelican heads who showed up. That is great.

Ingo (just flew into Taiwan, tired like a dog)

Thanks for all the kudos, fellas. I really feel like something was acomplished here....even though this journey has just begun.

A few more pics, now that I have the light of day and some time to pick things up a bit...
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1083022128.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1083022146.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1083022163.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1083022191.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1083022208.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1083022228.jpg

And here we go with the next round of questions...

1.) Should I completely disconnect the tranny from the engine and work on it that way, or should I take it apart, section by section?

2.) Can I get to the synchros by just opening/removing the nose cap and the intermediate section?

3.) Once removed, the tranny (in pieces or as a whole) will change the CG of the engine. With the way I have it setting here, how unstable would you think it would become?

Randy

Randy, disconnect the tranny from the engine. I've heard it's possible without disconnecting it, but it's 4 bolts and the easiest part of the whole thing :)

This will also allow you to inspect the clutch disc to see if it needs to be replaced. An engine stand is VERY helpful in holding your tranny while you disassemble/rebuild. I bought one from Harbor Freight for $39 and it was a Godsend.

The tranny should not affect the CG of the assembly, so just pull it off (mine didnt).

Once inside the tranny, you'll start asking the right questions about the syncros. Read a Bently for the 915 rebuilding...it's what I used and was very helpful.

Good luck brother, and way to go!

Got the nose cap off, and this is what I found:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1083027250.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1083027281.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1083027299.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1083027321.jpg

Tried turning them and they move quite freely.

Do I remove the pins and nuts and remove these gears to facilitate removal of the intermediate housing?

Gonna try to pick up an engine stand like you recommended, Matt, and put the tranny on it tomorrow. I think I'll stop here until I get this figured out a little (or a lot ;) ) better.

Randy