I hear a snaping sound, like a static shock, what could it be?

Starless · 05-04-2004, 11:25 AM

I started getting a hesitation when accelerating hard. So I started checking things out. The cap and rotor were worn, so I replaced them first. Cheap and simple. It helped, but did not go away. Did a search and found the one on lubing the dizzy, thanks Warren. I did not put oil down the shaft until it was full as was suggested on the thread because it just didn't feel right. Should I? Anyway that helped somewhat but the hesitation was still there. While looking around the engine with the motor running I heard a snaping sound coming from the left hand side. Not always but every couple of seconds or so, and the engine sounded as if it lost it's smoothness for that split second. I'm thinking wires, but I want to replace the OEM ones with Magnecours (SP?) and they are B/O. I also found on a search that post 73 wires will work just fine. My question is are these wires a simple replacement or do I have to mess around with changing the plug or cap ends. And should I be looking at some other cause for the snaping sound? Thanks.

Tyson Schmidt · 05-04-2004, 11:25 AM

Plug wires. Yes, the Magnecores are a simple direct replacement.

Starless · 05-04-2004, 11:27 AM

That's what I'm thinking. Now about those 73 and later wires.......

POVI · 05-04-2004, 11:36 AM

Hi ,

I had a similar problem with my 3.6 liter in my 1970 coupe, soon after i got the engine installed and running.Symptom was .. running smooth then engine cut out and dies for a few seconds ..

Traced to plug wires shorting to ground causing DME to re-set !

I re routed a few wires away from chassis , and its been running fine for last year !

- Joe -

Rot 911 · 05-04-2004, 11:36 AM

Definitely the plug wires. OEM or magnecor. But if you go OEM you do not need the wires with the outer wire braid.

Starless · 05-04-2004, 11:40 AM

That's just it, I don't want the outer wire braid. The Magnecors are nowhere to be found, no one has them. So will any wires from 1973 on work with just a simple replacement, no cutting or crimping?

Starless · 05-04-2004, 12:08 PM

Sorry for sounding so stupid. I just checked on a new set of wires. Here's what I found, correct me if I'm wrong please. The left side is sold separate from the right side. Different part #'s. They all have some sort of shielded wire that is grounded to the body somewhere. The left side is $159.50 for three wires. The right is $194.40. Is this correct? I don't mind spending money on my car but this is crazy. No wonder the Magnecors are so popular. Any ideas?

Doug Steinel · Doug Steinel's Garage

Did you try our host? those costs are out of line.

Starless · 05-04-2004, 01:14 PM

Pelican is where I got the prices from!!!! I feel that I'm getting alot of free information here and I plan on buying as much as I can from Pelican. Am I reading the on-line catalog wrong?

Starless · 05-04-2004, 01:20 PM

Just checked again, yup those are the prices. Any ideas on the Fyrebraid wire set for $150 also from Pelican?

jluetjen · jluetjen's Garage

Before you spring for new wires, why not make sure that the boots and clips that connect to the plugs are clean and put a dollup (like about as much as the toothpaste that you put on a toothbrush) of dielectric gel into each boot and put them back on the spark plugs.

The cost is less then $5.

Starless · 05-06-2004, 03:38 AM

The wires are quite a few years old. The plugs are platinum and I wanted to replace them anyway, so I just figured that if I'm going through the hassel of getting to the plugs and wires I might as well just replace them. But I'm just lost as to what to relace them with. I was all set to just get the magnecors but as far as I know they are B/O. Help me out here, what should I use? I really don't want that shielded look but if I must then I guess I will.

vesnyder · vesnyder's Garage

Had a similar "snapping" sound coming from the left side of teh engine, but the engine continued to run fine. Wen through and rechecked all the wires and the wire that connects to the coild was loose. Once I pushed it back in the snapping went away? Hopefully your solution is as simple!

gblumenstock · 05-06-2004, 06:33 AM

Try diagnosing at night. You will be able to see the flash and locate the problem. I had a similar problem with the distributor pick up wire shorting to the left chain housing cover.

GB

dtw · 05-06-2004, 07:22 AM

Here's a link to Pelican's -'73 plug wires - $114.25 for the set. If you have a local supplier you may do better, I got mine for $90. These are a full set of six with plug ends already installed; these are ready to install. OE Beru if Pelican is selling the same thing I bought...

john70t · 05-06-2004, 08:11 AM

Had that happen as well, but only under load. A "mechanic" kept telling me it was first gear.
If it's compared to a garden hose, under load/resistance the water would try and push out at the weakest area instead of going to the end.
The platinums may be contributing to that and unecessary unless it's a track car, but opinions vary on that.

Erakad · Erakad's Garage

I have that going on too on the left side. I'm a bit incapcitated now (hand surgery), but have been reading options. Saw in Excellance this month that you can buy 7mm carbon core wire from a parts store and "make" your own. Have seen similar posts here also. Is this very difficult to do?

Starless · 05-06-2004, 06:22 PM

dtw, link didn't work but I looked it up and found them. They say for non-CIS. The ones for CIS have the shield around them, just what I'm trying to avoid. I called the PO, he bought the car in 1985, never changed the wires!!! Then again he only put like 5000 miles on it in 15 years. So the wires must be replaced along with the plugs.
Erakad, I read some posts about making your own but I'd hate to go through all that work of putting them together putting them in the car, which looks like it's going to be a pain, and then have them misfire because I messed them up and have to take them out again. But then again practice make perfect.
I just want my car to run like it did!