A-Arm Removal Problems

[Mike Bonkalski]

I have removed the wedge pin from the Bilsteins, now how do I break the shock free? I doesn't seem to want to budge. I figured this would be easier than removing the castle nut, but now I'm not sure.

Any suggestions...

--Mike

[poorsha]

Mike.
I am in the middle of removing all of the front suspension off my 74.
Driver side is off and down to where you are on the passenger side.
Are you removing the A-arms or seperating the strut from the A-arm?

[Mike Bonkalski]

I am trying to separate the A-arm from the strut to remove the A-arm. It is the last thing connected. Once I get this off, I can start with the poly-bronze bushings!

[Grady Clay]

Mike,

You can spray some penetrating oil in where the wedge pin was while tapping on the bottom part (strong) not the shock body.

Support the spindle as close as you can to the strut. A piece of wood works well. You want to compress the shock several inches.

Use a large soft “dead blow” hammer to drive the A-arm down. Hit as close to the ball joint as you can.

Best,
Grady

[Mike Bonkalski]

Thanks Grady,

I'll give it a shot.

[Mike Bonkalski]

It worked. Thanks for your help. On with the bushings!

--Mike

[poorsha]

Mike.
Can you pop over and do mine?
Darn thing will not come out.
Drivers side was a breeze.
I will try it again later.

[Grady Clay]

Mike,

Here are some “while you are there” ideas.

Carefully clean the bore where the ball joint pin goes in the strut, the bore for the wedge pin, and the ball joint pin. If the wedge pin shows any rust or damage – replace it. I always put a new steel (not nyloc) locknut on the wedge pin. Prior to reassembly, I coat everything, except the wedge pin threads, with a little Marvel Mystery Oil. On the wedge pin threads and new steel locknut I use a drop of Loctite 271 (red).
On reassembly, it is important to have the notch in the ball joint pin properly lined up so the wedge pin slides in all the way. Using the wedge pin to realign the ball joint pin damages both.

Feel the ball joint for any stickiness or restrictions. If OK, only then add some lube via next to the pin. Don’t punch a hole in the rubber boot. Of course check the boot for any damage. The ball joint and attachment are major safety items and are easily replicable if you have questions.
Anyone who still has the “pinch bolt” type of ball joint to strut attachment (’69-71) should replace it ASAP with the wedge pin type!! Big time safety issue.

Of course there are the tie rod ends/turbo tie rods.

What condition are your shocks?

Now is the time to clean and re-grease the wheel bearings.

Another useful inspection is to pull the boots on the steering rack and inspect.

I would recommend replacing your brake lines with OEM rubber lines. Of course you will get to bleed the brakes on reassembly. This is also an opportunity to remove the pads, clean and inspect the caliper in the places where the pads sit. Cycling the pistons in the caliper back and forth is a useful service.

Remember your new non-rubber suspension bearings will be noisier and put more shock stress on the chassis attachment points.

Best,
Grady

[gduke]

I put in the polybronze bearings and while the control arms were out I had them cleaned and powdercoated. It really dresses up the suspension components nicely. Eventhough, the only people who'll notice are other P car owners who I show. It makes one piece of an old car look brand new again.

Good luck with the bearings, I haven't drove my car w/ them yet, working on the new front spoiler/oil cooler now. Hope to be driving her in 2 weeks. But, thats what I told people two weeks ago. The bearings went in easily and after that I desided to do about 2 years worth of upgrades.

[gduke]

Mike, is Geneva near the Quad Cities? I'm about 50 mi's east on I 80.

[Mike Bonkalski]

The front bushings went in with no problems.

gduke, I am about an hour and a half east from the QC's on I-88. I had a bunch of college roommates who live(d) there. Got into a lot of trouble out there in my wild, younger days.

Grady, the ball joint pin was in good shape and showed no corrosion or rust. I just put a little grease on the pin and used a block of wood and a a hammer to pop it back into place. Should I replace the wedge pins? They didn't seem to show any damage from pounding them out. I will probably get the new locknuts though. The shocks are in nice condition and it already has the turbo-ties.

It probably didn't need front bushings (they were in pretty good shape), but I was doing the rear and figured why not. It will be a good comparison between the two. It has front coilovers already and it pretty stiff, I don't expect too much of a NVH change based on the experience of others.

On too the rear suspenstion. One more question, what do I need to unbolt to remove the rear trailing arm? Is the a "step by step" I should follow? Lots of stuff is attached to the trailing arm and I don't want to screw anything up.

[poorsha]

Mike.
How about some pics?
I am going thru similar steps.