how to? heat and exhaust nuts.

vash · vash's Garage

i hope some of you are awake. first off, the barrel nuts came of EASY! i only used a 8mm allen T-handle wrench, one handed. so i dont know what to expect with the standard nuts. i have them soaking for about 2 days with PBB. i am going to heat them up with my MAPP torch till cherry red, and immediately put a socket on it and turn, or do i get them red hot and put the socket on it, and continue to heat the nut thru the socket? while turning? i am really agonizing over this. thanks.

oh, this is to get to the oil return tubes and take off the airpump plumbing.

john walker's workshop · 05-15-2004, 10:24 AM

just heat the nut. if the barrel nuts came off easy, the others might too. just know when to quit so you don't break a stud and create more work for yourself.

Schrup · Schrup's Garage

I was planning to use this method before deciding to take it to John.
Duck food

911SCfanatic · 911SCfanatic's Garage

alright, I'll ask a dumb question. Do you use the old studs when reinstalled the exchangers? Isn't there concern about breaking them when torquing? What do you need to do to take precautions?

vash · vash's Garage

bill G. i thought about this too. i am going to go easy both directions.

and thank you john walker, i wish i could take my car to you too.

i have my dremel as back up. i hope to use my torque wrench to tell me when to quit cranking. how much do i set my wrench to? i think i read somewhere, 10 -15 foot pounds?

KTL · 05-15-2004, 01:06 PM

The studs should not be as much of a concern when reinstalling the exhaust. Just clean the threads up really good with a wire brush or a thread die (size is M8 x 1.25 thread pitch), and then put a good dose of high temp anti-seize paste on the threads. Use new hex nuts too.

Torque spec. is 18 ft-lb/25 Nm. Problem is that it's hard to torque the hex nuts with a torque wrench when you can't get at them in a straight manner. Using a universal socket changes the torque applied (at an angle not 90 degrees) to the nut. Not a big deal though. Just make them nice and snug. Don't gorilla tighten them.

Jeff Alton · 05-15-2004, 02:32 PM

I heated the nuts with a MAPP torch then cooled them with a wet rag. Did this twice, and then they came right off using a 1/4 inch drive ratchet.

I have tried not heating them on a previous engine, and broke 2 of them.

I did not try to undo them while they were red hot, I only backed them off after cooling with the soaking wet rag.

Jeff

vash · vash's Garage

ok, i got the suckers off! no incident to mention. ALL MY OIL TUBES ARE NEW! and it looks like my motor is not leaking anymore. i was getting a wierd drip that made my crankcase seal constantly wet and dripping. ADIOS!

i may have put my exhaust gaskets on incorrectly, because i have a tiny exhaust leak. a minor tapping. i am too tired to monkey with it, and i hope the next time i drop that sucker, SSI's go back. what is the ideal procedure to torque down exhaust hardware?

thank you jim sims for hooking me up with the little airplugs at the exhaust port. i cleaned everything up by taking off the plumbing for the airpump.

Randy Webb · 05-15-2004, 04:26 PM

Remember, if the threads are good and lubricated (with a copper based or other high temp anti-sieze), then the stress on that little stud will be mainly axial. It is when you are torquing the hell out of it that the stress is radial (circumferential). So don't worry too much about breaking it. Just don't hammer it real hard when putting the nut on -- don't worry about the nut coming off as it will soon weld itself to the stud just like it was before....