First time engine drop with questions and pics!
 

I just finished droping my engine for the first time. It was much easier than I thought it was going to be. I did the entire drop in 6 hours using one jack, and a funiture dolly. I did all of the work by myself with the exception of a second set of eyes (my dad) for the last hour while actually lowering the engine. I decided to drop it to rebuild the transmission since my tranny is in bad shape. It looks like it was a good thing I did it now because my clutch looks shot as well. I do have a few questions. First here are some pictures.

Before:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084674135.jpg

After:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084674154.jpg

Here is my flywheel. It looks scored similar to what a lightly scored brake rotor would look like. The tops of the rivits on the clutch were just starting to hit the flywheel. Is this resurfaceable, or do I have to get a new one?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084674330.jpg

Here is the clutch. Original spring centered clutch with ~90k miles on it.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084674364.jpg

I am going to tear into the tranny tomorrow to see how much damage there is. I'm sure there will be MANY questions to follow.

Well, it looks like I am involved in a similar project sitting in my garage. I pulled the engine in my '71 s about a month ago with the intention to replace the clutch anf fix the oil leaks. Well, once I got in there I decided to do a few more things, see below:

new clutch disc & pressure plate
new pilot bearing and throwout bearing
resurfaced flywheel $50
cleaned and pressure tester on-engine oil cooler $30
new 1st gear syncro & slider
this is where I am now. Still to install:
oil return tubes
finish painting engie metal shroud
fix or replace red fiberglass shroud
put on the new heat exchangers I purchased
possibly swap out the Bursch for a Dansk exhaust
put the engine and tranny back in the car
buy and put in a front oil cooler of some sort

75% of my time has been spent cleaning, scrubing, sanding, and painting. about half way on this portion.

If you have any questions on what I have done let me know. By the way, go get some Purple Power cleaning solution from the auto parts store. Its cheap and it works well.

zac

Thanks for the suggestion. I was planning on cleaning the engine up also. It's amazing what 23 years of grime is like on the back side of that engine. I'm am going to try not to get hit with the "while you're in there" but, but I'm sure it will be hard to resist.

What about my flywheel? Any thoughts?

get a lightweight flywheel or get that one resurfaced/lightened/balanced.powdercoat the engine tin now that you`ve got the engine out...try to borrow some money you won`t have to pay back...and let the mods/restoration begin!

If anyone here has money to loan to people that doesn't need to be paid back, hook me up. :D

CDiercks, when you first open up the tranny make sure it is horizontal or the backup pin will fall deep into the tranny. It is so light that it will stick in the residual fluid and be very difficult to find.

Thanks for the tip. I'm sure I would have made that mistake. Any other tips on the tranny are wellcome, keep them comming! I'm getting ready to head out to the garage and start ripping it apart.

raceman: "try to borrow some money you won`t have to pay back...and let the mods/restoration begin!"

If you know anyone who has money that doesn't want it back, LET ME KNOW!

CD,

I think you already have, but read through my thread on rebuilding a 915 tranny. Several of the guys here have provided their expertise which was extremely helpful. I'm sure I would still be lost if it weren't for them.

Oh yeah...if you have even the slightest doubt about ANYTHING, just ASK!!! These guys will know the answer.

Randy

Since you brought it up, I pulled my engine on Friday.

My plans are:
Carrillo Rods
New rings (it's supposed to have 3.4 pistons)
Twin plug heads
Open intake ports for Carrera manifold
Valve job with Titanum spring retainers
Patrick Motorsports Flywheel
Kennedy Aluminum Pressure plate
8:39 ring and pinion
Autronic sequential fuel injection (not completely decided on this system)
55lb injectors
Carrera intake
Sport engine and tranny mounts
Carrera chain tensioners
New rear suspension bushings
Plus a bunch of stuff that I'm sure will pop up while I'm doing this.

I figured it's so hot in Houston that this is the right time of year to do this. I put A/C in the garage last year so I'm ready for the summer.

I plan to do all the work myself except for the valve job.
I'm still looking for the Carrera intake and a dyno shop to do the EFI tuning. I've talked with Protechnik in Houston but it sounds like they only want to deal with Motec. I'm having trouble justifying the extra few grand for the Motec system.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084733039.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084733061.jpg

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084733073.jpg

rcecale, I am planning on asking plenty of questions. I already have a few. I am planning on taking it pretty slow to start off. Unfortunately I have to go out of town all week for work too.

David, if you would like, I'll take that 930 engine off your hands for you and you can use mine! I wouldn't mind at all. In fact, I'll even deliver it.

I already asked this in the other thread, but I'll ask again. How do you lock the transmission into two gears to keep the shafts from spinning?

Is this for races only?

I don't really see the benefit/cost to the Carillo rods except on an all-out race car.

Since Porsche changed from 10mm to 9mm rod bolts on the 3.3 and 3.2 motors there have been some problems. It's also my understanding that if you're making more than 400hp you should use the Carrillo rods and I'm expecting to be in the 500 to 550 range.

I put the answer over in the other thread. All you do is engage 5th by moving the slider onto it and then pushing in the lower of the two shift sleeves that pose through the Intermediate Cover. (The one with the hole in the tip of it.) I posted a pic in the other thread.

Randy

I'm not sure who to give credit to but this is my favorite 915 rebuild thread:

http://www.pelicanparts.com/MotorCity/marcesq3/TrannyRebuild.htm

It clearly shows how to lock the tranny in 2 gears.

That is a good article. Didn't know about it. Since I now already have my tranny apart, that will help when putting it back together.

My first and second syncros are shot. 3rd and 4th look perfect though. Suprising to me. I might just leave the input shaft alone since that nut on the end looks like a PIA to remove! I snapped a bunch of pics but they all turned out like crap. My cammera does not like to take closeups for some reason. Hopefully I can remember where everything goes.

As far as I can tell, the only things I need to replace are the 1 and 2 syncros, and the 1/2 slider. Is there anything else I should do while I'm in there? I am trying to keep cost down.

No dog teeth wear?! That's surprising if the tranny's been grinding. I'd replace the 1&2 dogtooth gears and the brake bands which are also a wear item at least.

CD, first, congrats on your engine drop! Good job! Make sure you tie up those axles so they are not just hanging:)

Looks as though your flywheel just needs to be resurfaced, no biggie. Not sure, but I thought OE clutch disks were rubber centered? Maybe this is not the original?

Anyhow, like others have said, get that engine cleaned up and the tin powder coated. You wont regret it! Unless you are like all of us knuckleheads who drop the engine 'just to clean and reseal' and end up splitting the cases for a full rebuild..:)

Good job!

Chris

CD,

I used that article as well, during my rebuild. Refered to it many, many times.

Another thing I refered to a lot was the PET Exploded Diagram of the gears. Grady Clay faxed me copies of it and it really helped, both with the positioning of the parts, but also with their names.

Here's a pic, and if you like, I can fax you copies of what Grady sent me, however they may be a bit difficult to read, since they are already a fax copy. Lemme know. :)

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1084756251.jpg

Randy

I'm pretty sure that clutch disc is original. I think the ROW SCs came with spring centered clutches.

Now, this may seem like a dumb question, but how do you get the gears apart? I was afraid to start prying on things with a screw driver. Is the piece on the top of the gear a large circlip that needs to be compressed to be removed or what? Is it all just pressed onto the gear?

Also, my parts list in now: 1st and second syncro, syncro hub (dog teeth), brake bands, and 1/2 slider. Do I need to replace the anchor blocks? I don't see how they could be worn. Also what about part number 44 in the diagram above. Don't know the name of it, but it looked like it is untouched.

CD,

A pair of snap-ring pliers will handle that circlip for you. Don't be afraid of it. I was real cautious of it at first and didn't think my own snap-ring pliers were adequate. I was all set to go spend $25.00 or more for a larger pair when I figured "what the he!!" and just went at 'em. Once you get them to start spreading open, give them a little "twist" and the ring will come right out. Once it gets started on the way out, a small bladed screwdriver will do the rest.

The next "special tool" you'll need will come up when you go to separate the synchro hub from the gears. I was too cheap to buy the special tool for this, since I "hopefully" would only be using it once. What I did was use a hammer and wood chisel and slowly worked the two pieces apart. I stood the gear on a piece of wood so as not to tear up the teeth on my concrete floor.

Number 44 in the pic above is called the guide sleeve. I replaced mine, but all three of the "guides" were broken badly. I don't know what to tell you to look for on that piece, but I'm sure someone here can tell you

Randy