Stripped Sump Plate Stud

[GenX Porsche]

So just my luck, on a routine oil change I go to screw the sump plate back in place and one of the studs strips. What is that, murphy's law, if something could go wrong it will go wrong. Thats how I have been feeling recently. I am tempted to just try and fill my engine up without that stud, I mean there are 7 other screws in that sucker. Suggestions? I know this is just a short term fix but I was really looking forward to the drive tomorrow. Is this wise or am I going to spread oil all over the known world? Thanks alot.
David

[fly944]

I take it you stripped the head of the stud. If thats the case I would try to remove the damaged stud and install a new one. These studs usually come out with little fight.

[Early_S_Man]

David,

Well, you've still got a couple of hours working time before dark ... so, don't give up, yet!

I assume you didn't strip the case threads ...

1. Find a fully-threaded M6 x 1.00 DIN 8.8 bolt slightly longer than the thickness of the case plus extended stud, and a tap of the same size ... plus, Red Loctite, Loc-Quik Primer or carb cleaner, or Brakleen ... plenty of shop rags, too ... as you will need to keep oil from seeping into the 'working theatre' later!!!

2. Remove stripped stud from case as carefully as possible ... heat case around stud with Propane or Mapp Gass torch if the stud doesn't start backing out immediately when gripped by Vise-Grips! Usually there is complete oil penetration and lack of Loctite after these many years, but you may run into an exception.

3. Run tap all the way up through case ... until bolt can be threaded down from inside case.

4. Dry sump area around drain plate area as well as possible and 'dam up' the area ... degrease with carb cleaner or Brakleen as well as possible within 1" of the damaged stud's seating area.

5. Prime with Lok-Quik and apply Red Loctite to bolt for at least 3 - 4 threads nearest bolt head, and quickly thread bolt fully down from the top. Hope that the Loctite sets properly, but don't worry if it doesn't. Let sit overnight before attempting to install sump plate and strainer.

All of the above assumes 'loose' threads in the case ... if still tight and fresh, you can make a stud by cutting off the head of the bolt, dressing with a file, and foregoing the tapping out through the case. Be sure threads are clean and dry befor applying the Loctite ... and the Loctite IS important for a leak-free stud!

Good luck!!!

[GenX Porsche]

I havent actually experienced the stud turning in the case. What I have experiences is treads on the stud being stripped not allowing me to torque down the nut to hold the sump plate on. Should I try and pull the stud out with vice grips and then get my hands on a M6 x 1.00 DIN 8.8 (head cut off) and tread it into the space? Is this the proper repair? Or do I need to do the bolt through the bottom of the case? Do I need a stud remover/installer? Thanks for the help.
David

[yelcab1]

Originally posted by GenX Porsche
I havent actually experienced the stud turning in the case. What I have experiences is treads on the stud being stripped not allowing me to torque down the nut to hold the sump plate on. Should I try and pull the stud out with vice grips and then get my hands on a M6 x 1.00 DIN 8.8 (head cut off) and tread it into the space? Is this the proper repair? Or do I need to do the bolt through the bottom of the case? Do I need a stud remover/installer? Thanks for the help.
David

Then all you need is vise grip to remove it, clean the threads with brake cleaners, get a new stud, screw it in there with some blue loctite, and install your sump plate.

If you want a cheap and dirty fix (not guarranteed to work), take a die (M6 1mm) and run it over the stud. You may repair the thread enough to hold the nut. No really huge torque here.

[GenX Porsche]

Ok so I have a tap and die set but I have never had to put it to use in the past. I get the just of it and I have seen people use them before. I just had a quick question about measurements. Is a M6 1mm die equal to my 6mmx100? It looks about the right size but I just wanted to make sure when using tools that I havent before. Thanks alot.
David

[Early_S_Man]

Yep, same threads ... different designations meaning the same thing!

I wouldn't try to continue to use that stud, though ... replace it and use the HD Red Loctite ... it is designed for use on studs that you don't want coming loose. And, you don't want that stud coming loose at the next oil change, do you?

[aigel]

Run an English thread on it, I don't know what, a #8 or so, something smaller than the metric stud size. That way you will have fresh material and all you will need is the matching nut and a washer. Will be easier to come by than a new metric stud, short term.

Next oil change, do what the others recommended and replace the stud.

George

[GenX Porsche]

Because it is me and, yes, I am that good, I cant get the nut off the stud. Its stripped and it just spins. I tried vice grips and with all the other nuts tightened on the sump plate and then all the nuts loose on the sump plate. Nothing worked. Someone help me I have no idea what to do now and I am just getting more and more frustrated. Hmm seems to be a theme.
David

[john walker's workshop]

911 oil drain studs don't go all the way thru the case, like a vw.

[vash]

the nut is stripped and your socket just spins? or the nut just spins on the stud?

[rcwaldo]

Sounds as though the nut and/or stud is stripped and the nut wont back-off? If you can get a screwdriver under the nut, in between the sump plate and the nut, try to pry on the nut gently while loosening the nut..

Chris

[GenX Porsche]

The nut just spins on the stud and I cant get a screwdriver under the nut to try and get some leverage. I dont even have a faint idea what to do. I am starting to think it is hopeless.
David

[Shipibo]

Use a chisel edge under the nut and turn it off. A chisel edge is thin enough to get under the bolt, I would guess. Charlie

[GenX Porsche]

I dont know if a chisel edge is going to be small enough and I dont know if it is going to do anything because I had a set of vice grips on the nut and was pulling down and turning and it didnt do anything. I will try it anyway. Are there any more ideas, I have no clue where to go next.
David

[Early_S_Man]

If you have a replacement bolt/stud in hand and are ready to do the replacement ... you don't have to get the nut off to pull out the old stud!

Dremel cut-off wheel ... cut a slot accross nut and stud and use a slotted screwdriver to back the stud out. USE a LARGE screwdriver ... and MAKE SURE the fit in the slot is TIGHT!!!

[GenX Porsche]

So I started with the dremel and I went very slow. I cut the notch and everything went fine but the stud wouldnt move at all. I started to get some leverage on the screwdriver and I noticed the whole I cut starting to open up so I stopped immediately. I believe everything is fine but I was wondering if anyone around here locally has some extra time to come and check it out and try and help me get this stud out. I have no prior experience in this matter and I would feel alot more comfortable if someone could watch over me or if I could watch someone do it. Also the last thing that I want is to totally strip this stud leaving me royally messed. If anyone could help me out give me a call 831-588-6010 I would really appreciate it. Any other advise would also be appreciated.
David

[Early_S_Man]

Well ... 1600 miles is a bit far for a 'housecall!'

Sounds like the stud still is Loctited in place and that heat will be necessary to melt the red Loctite.

Just go ahead and cut the nut on opposite sides, diagonally, with the Dremel, and remove it.

Then, with Vise-Grips in place on the outer/lower 2/3 of the stud ... apply heat with Propane or MAPPgas torch or oxy-acetylene, if you have it ... until stud is cherry red for 30 seconds or so, then try loosening with the locked pliers. Heavy leather gloves would be a good idea on the hands!

[GenX Porsche]

Thanks a bunch I appreciate all your help Warren. Yea 1600 miles is a bit for a house call but I will go ahead and cut the nut and try and find a oxy-acetylene torch. I will keep you in the loop.
David

[aigel]

Careful that you don't overheat the case. Magnesium! All I'd use would be a propane torch.

If you are in doubt, button it back up with the one missing nut, after removing the nut and use a film of RTV on the gaskets. That should hold the oil and get you to a shop that can solve this for you.

Just my two cents. Once you rip the stud flush, you'll have to go to the shop anyway...

George