Expert needed - gap between body pannels
 

I am putting the body back together -

What is the ideal gap between body panels -

Lids to fenders:

Fenders to doors:

Thanks!!!

I don't have access to my car to check but I would imagine there is an acceptable range for gap. Before tightening I'd eyeball the gaps for overall acceptability.

Since they make a tool for this very purpose I'd suppose you can quickly fabricate some fitment "jigs" out of wood. Panel Gapper ===> http://www.eastwoodco.com/shopping/product/detailmain.jsp?itemID=1683&itemType=PRODUCT&RS=1&k eyword=gap

Anyone have the OEM allowed fitment specs???

While watching the Barrett-Jackson auto search, I think Jackson said that Porsche gaps are supposed to be 3mm - he had a little nylon stick-gage he was using to run around all the gaps.

Ahhhhh!

3mm Anyone second that answer?

If so I am off to build my 3mm body gap gauge.....

Thanks project935!

Go for it, use the hot rodder's standard, a dime (actually, Porsche may have a different standard).

If a dime is the standard I'm way off.

They say to use a paint stick. I'd say thats pretty close to 3mm.

Thanks Guys!

Paint sticks and clear duck tape!!

I've always heard 3.5mm.

If you look at the US based gap gauge and convert over to metric you'll get .79 mm, 1.5 mm and 3.1 mm.

So my guess would be around 3mm. Or in the 3 to 3.5 mm range.... :D

Depends on the car.....928 and the "Audi" 944 use much wider gaps....

--Wil

I suspect because of the "hand made" aspect of the 911 the gap is going to vary between individual cars.

Groan....this aspect is not very "hand-made"......the only exception being the silver/lead filler used ( by hand) on the 911 door's front/top edge....the rest is all body dies....pretty precise, too!

---Wil

The apsect I'm talking about is the panel fitment. Not construction. LOL

wow you guys are perfectiionist!! as long as the gap looks consistent all the way around, that's the right gap! nobody is going to say nice gap standing 10 feet away admiring your car..what they will notice is if the gap is equal to the eye!! have fun drive it! my $0.02

All true unless the gap is 1/4" (little less than 6mm). I've been doing a lot of body work lately and when the gap is pushing 4mm, it starts to have "gaposes."

when the gap is pushing 4mm, it starts to have "gaposes."

yeah...like Saturns and 928's..... !!

--Wil

I saw on one show where they filled the gap completely with filler, let it harden, and then went back and cut the correct size (small) gap - I think it was on an old corvette. Is this acceptable to do? Would you use body filler or fiberglass ( on a fiberglass panel)

Found this. (not Porsche but good info)

http://www.carcraft.com/howto/51979/

The first step is to determine why you have a gap problem. It has been reported here and it has been my experience that doors and lids can be interchanged between cars w/o much difficulty. In other words, if one doesn't fit right, the next one will probably be the same.

If you must, you can weld onto the edge and grind it straight. Bondo on the edge doesn't work and it's not much better to build up on the gutters or jambs. In the rear, the problem is going to be with the tub and in the front it's going to be in the mounting of the fenders. Or, worst yet, the front chassis snout. It's actually kind of neat how the various front half parts relate to each other and the tub.

Thanks Zeke,

My situation is more related to fitting fiberglass fenders, hood, quarters, etc...

I did not know what was the best way to close any gap between fiberglass parts.

For fiberglass you'd want to continue the integrity of the door onto a new edge. In other words, add to the edge with FG tape and resin from an inch or two in.

To insure it's flush you may have to sand a "step" to lay your work in or feather the new edge work into the door.

If you merely use Bondo on the edge it will knock off easily.

doors to fenders - 4mm
fenders to front bonnet - 3mm
I'm at the same stage!