How to build a Slant Nose Turbo Look 911

[Kemo]

Originally posted by rick-l
Sunset Fun -- did you guys take the day off?

yeah! i been following this thread with anticipation *drools*

cant wait for the next round of pics...

[kepperly]

WERK I,
Thanks for that bit of info, I was wondering if that was the
reason for the differance. I did my Carrera as close to the "later"
factory style with a Mocal cooler and aftermarket fan. Certainly
made the plumbing relatively easier. And I like the look of the
factory steel valance better.

Keith Epperly-87 slant nose turbo look carrera cabriolet

[Victor]

Feeling better yet? Maybe he should lay off the cigars....

[kepperly]

bump, need more info, more photos

[RickM]

That tail rubber is not happy.

[Kemo]

nice...progress...love it.

[Victor]

Any pics of the tuna? Hope he didn't put the cigar down during the fight!

[k9handler]

good to see you guys back in action.

[Matt Smith]

Savagery to tuna as well as tin. Will it never end?
Please end that poor 911's suffering.

[rlh930]

I remember, back in the day, when those turbo-look slant-noses were really cool. Well, it's only a Targa!

[Adam]

Thanks for keeping us in the loop on this project. I've been watching with interest!

[Ray 911s]

Glad you are back! And thanks for the thread.

[Kurt B]

A post like this can't be beat! Unfortunately, it looks very easy in the pictures, but I would be nuts for trying (and wouldn't). Very cool post! This is one for the archives.

[Kurt B]

Someone explain "peel and weld"

[Emission]

I am pretty naive about bodywork.

After the peel and weld, do you use filler (Bondo?) to fill the gap? What happens next?

[RickM]

Emission,

There are a couple of different, yet similar, techniques for doing this.
To answer your question, while you "trace cut" there will be a gap between the new flare and the existing body panel, in this case the upper quarter panel. As you progress this gap is spot welded, an inch or two apart, to hold the new flare in place. When the entire flare is spot welded in place you can remove the old flare from within the wheel well.
The spaces between the spot welds can then be connected using the butt welding technique. This is typically done on an alternatining basis to prevent heat build up in a small area which will create warping.

Hope this isn't confusing.

[Porschekid962]

jeeze is there enough Bondo on the welded on fender??? looks like a lot. interesting, i have never seen this done before, very cool its being put up for show and tell.

[Emission]

Originally posted by RickM
Emission,

There are a couple of different, yet similar, techniques for doing this.
To answer your question, while you "trace cut" there will be a gap between the new flare and the existing body panel, in this case the upper quarter panel. As you progress this gap is spot welded, an inch or two apart, to hold the new flare in place. When the entire flare is spot welded in place you can remove the old flare from within the wheel well.
The spaces between the spot welds can then be connected using the butt welding technique. This is typically done on an alternatining basis to prevent heat build up in a small area which will create warping.

Hope this isn't confusing.

...then you grind of the bead from the weld and smooth the metal down... right?

Very nice, and it's 100% steel. Cool.

[89turbocabmike]

Sunset, I sort of familiar with the concept of shrinking, but what would be the result of not"wet ragging" it? Does shrinking smooth the surface more or is it a stress-relieving measure? Thanks for the effort in posting this project!

[Sunset Fun]

The use of Heat and a Wet rag are to shink the metal. After using the Hammer and dolly to shape the metal. It is not necessary to Heat and hit with the Wet Rag.
You can use filler to get the surface smooth, We like to use as little filler as possible that why we use the Heat and wet rag to shink the metal.