Removing the EGR valve on a SC

[smestas]

Is it possible to remove the EGR valve on a '78 SC and just plug the vacume lines going to it?

Would this be a bad idea other then getting in trouble with the SMOG police?

[SC-targa]

I didn't know that an SC's ever had a EGR valve. I guess you learn something every day. If you just plug the vacuum line to an EGR valve, the valve will no longer open.

Jerry Kroeger

[justesen]

Simon, I was wondering the same thing. I have a 77 with EGR. I've removed the A.I.R. pump and have been looking at the egr. I tappears that it is attached to a long pipr that runs to the muffler. I think you need a 25mm plug to put in the muffler when the pipe is removed.

Jay

[tsuter]

Remove the vacuum lines from the throttle body to the EGR valve. There are two of them. Cap the nipples at the TB. See picture.
Remove the EGR filter from the muffler and tube running to the EGR valve. Pinch and weld off is easiest.
It is not necessary to remove the EGR valve as it is now inoperable and will not interfere with anything.

[justesen]

Tsuter, Great picture. I've got the 25mm plug I'm going to use just in case I ever want to take it back to "original".

Thanks,

Jay

[juanbenae]

i think that the EGR is on 78 and 79's but not the cars with an oxygen sensor.. i know my 78 has one because the smog guy knew right where to find it and confirmed nit was there on the visual inspection. it was not actually a "visual" inspection for that, he kinda felt around behind the passenger side, rear portion of the motor.

[Jim Sims]

I do believe without an installed EGR system you'll fail the California visual emissions inspection. If you "hack it out" per some of the above suggestions you may be in for grief and expense when you find you must reinstall it as some of the parts become NLA. The plug for the EGR muffler fitting is made from a 26 x 1.5 #908 plug obtained from Metric Multistandards Components Corp (www.metricmcc.com). The thread end of the plug has to have a conical counter bore machined in it to seal against the spherical seat of the fitting welded to the muffler (the one with the captured nut). The dimensions of the conical counterbore are .258" ID at the bottom (bottom of counter bore will be flat), .830" ID at the top (thread end) with a .258" depth (depth from thread end to flat bottom of conical counterbored hole). Jim

[justesen]

Jim,

Would it be possible to use a few copper washers as shims so that the flat plug would seal? I.E., put in about 5 washers with a 24mm OD and tighten against them?

Thanks,

Jay

[Jim Sims]

It should be understood that there is a spherical surface on the end of the fitting attached to the muffler. This surface registers into and within the conical counter bore on the matching fitting or plug. Without the counterbore the captured or "floating" nut would barely engage the threads on the plug; if you attempt to make a seal with washers I suspect the thread won't reach at all. It is a simple machining job to modify the plug as the counterbore doesn't have to be perfectly centered with respect to the plug threads since the captured nut has a lot of transverse "play" and can be tightened somewhat offset.

A couple of images of the plug are below; first image also includes 10x1 air injector hole plugs.

[justesen]

Thanks Jim.

Jay