wide body conv question

[irl]

I am rebuilding a 74 from the ground up. I know I will put more money in it than actually buying the car that I imagine. It may be stupid because I am sure I will put more money into it than actually finding the car I want. Its also a hobby and passion right now. - I can also hide $500 - $1000 a month from my wife easier than dropping $20,000-$30,000. You have all been awesome with answers over the last two months and have helped me spend $3000 in parts and another $3000 in tools so far and its just begun. My question this time is, to convert the car to a widebody or turbo look can I use my stock 74 911 front and rear fenders and add steel flares or do I need wider fenders to start with before they are added. Thanks again in advance

[john walker's workshop]

the flares are butt welded to the original fenders.

[Lorne Ross]

I am doing the same right now with a 1973 911T. I purchased the turbo flares form Mid-America who had them in stock. They will be Butt welded onto my car. This can be done by any good body person.
Good luck and let me know how you make out.
Lorne Ross
Caledonia, Ont. Canada

[TerryBPP]

You can buy just the flares and attach them to your stockers or you can buy the whole front fender. The rears must be molded.

[rick-l]

Is this how you paste a link? Here is how it's done How to build a Slant Nose Turbo Look 911
How to build a Slant Nose Turbo Look 911

[Hetmann]

Here's what it looks like in irish green...

[bigrubberjeep]

Or you could jsut buy a "Turbo Look" and retro the look with ducktail and stuff.

[irl]

Can anyone point me to more info or images on this retro widebody look. Also thanks for the photo Jerry, I'd like to talk to you on the phone about how you handled some things, your garage photos look pretty similair. Any more photos of your car would be great also. Thanks.

[v9ff]

I think there's some guy on this board with a black hotrod early 911 widebody... his name is Jack something or other.

[kühn tune]

There was a thread a few weeks back that had a ton pictures of long-hood cars with turbo flares and ducktail spoilers. It was from a vintage race possibly in Europe. If someone could post those pictures or link to the thread. Those cars looked so cool with just the wide fenders and no picknick table wing or rocker panels.

[Jack Olsen]

Here's the link to the Tour de France widebody pictures.

The advantage to having a 74 is that you can just weld on Turbo flares, which are pretty easy to get.

Here's a pair of pictures of ducktail widebody car (that happens to be sitting in my driveway right now).

[Frostie]

Jack, did you just use spacers to push your wheels out. Wielding on the flares seems to be the easy part but filling in the flares seems to be the hard part.

[TerryBPP]

Jack has custom made 17" Fuchs. I think most widebodies have 10" or 11" wide in the back and 8" or 9" wide in the front. I would not use spacers. It would look retarded.

[bigrubberjeep]

Spacers do look bad - Custom wheels are the way to go.

[Frostie]

I must admit I’ve thought about doing this also. I’m running 17” x 9.5” in the rear with 255, I wonder if I ran 275’s and 2” spacers would work? I don’t think 275’s would look too narrow in the rear. The problem with spacers is the bearing wear issue but I don’t think 2” would hurt, but then again I’m a newbie at this…

[Jack Olsen]

Uh, I run both custom wheels and spacers.

[Az911]

Jack why do you need spacers with those huge wheels?

[bigrubberjeep]

Originally posted by JackOlsen
Uh, I run both custom wheels and spacers.

ARGH!!!!!

[nein14-6]

irl,
I have a complete IROC body kit off of a parts car up here in Monrovia, MD (near Mount Airy) that I am not sure what I am going to do with yet.

[Jack Olsen]

Originally posted by Az911
Jack why do you need spacers with those huge wheels?

Two reasons. One is that we built the car in 12 weeks, and had no concrete data on what the wheels' backspacing should be. So we ordered on the conservative side, knowing we could always add spacers, but could never do the opposite.

But also, you want to build a wheel with the wheel center somewhere close to the center of the rim, for the sake of the wheel's strength. If I had another set of wheels built with one inch more backspacing, I'd be so 'deep dish' that I'd be seriously off-center of the wheel rim.

Frankly, I'd rather (possibly) shorten the life of the bearings than to (definitely) compromise the structural design of the wheel.

In front, we widened the track of the car, so we got the best of both worlds.