What do I need to build a 3.4 from a 3.0?

[rdane]

Tom and others have BTDT. It is good advice.

If I wanted a nice engine to replace what I have, starting "new", a stock 3.2 with cat bypass, MAS air flow and a chip would keep me happy.
Drop the weight on the car an zoom/zoom

220 at the wheels and 200# or torque with electronic fuel management. Still the best transplant for the money IMO.

[JP911]

Thanks for all of the advice. Sometimes I'm a slow learner, but once I saw all of the numbers I s l o w l y started to understand. I still plan to build a motor, but I think I'll take it a bit slower and do a bit more planning.
-Jon

[89911]

A very nice upgrade for the 3.2 is Euro higher compression pistons and a better cam (964, 20/21). Set it up with a chip for the type of gas you want to run and your good to go. I've driven them and they are fast.

[fintstone]

A good 3.0 would push around that '76 quite well. You just wouldn't have the 3.4 bragging rights. You could get one heck of a 3.0 that was professionally built for about 10k or less since you already have the exhaust.

[rdane]

Originally posted by fintstone
A good 3.0 would push around that '76 quite well. You just wouldn't have the 3.4 bragging rights.

No question a 3.0 is a great engine. I'd have never rebuilt my 3.0 if it weren't for bent exhaust valves and excessive oil consumption. I wouldn't compare a typical CIS 3.0 with a 3.4 CIS though...'cus there isn't any comparison past the ease of starting.

Even a stock Motronic 3.2 isn't in the same ball game as a decent 3.4 CIS if mine is any indication.

Not trying to convince anyone that a 3.4 CIS is a good move unless you have specific circumstances like mine. But a 3.2 with a few mods and less than 6 or 7K$ (including the engine) will get you a darn fast motor and modern, programable fuel injection.

[fintstone]

Obviously bigger is better. Turbos and 3.6s are cool too! But 10k could certainly buy a budget conscious fellow a very nice professionally built 200+ hp 3.0, core and all which would positively scream in a lighter midyear car...especially if they had the 7:31 gearing. It would certainly be a big improvement over a tired 2.7...much as a 3.4 would be over a 3.0

[jpahemi]

89 911,
Do you have more engine shots (before installing)? What heater duct are you using on the dist side, turbo? Who made your fuel preasure line?
Regards,
J.P.

[rdane]

But 10k could certainly buy a budget conscious fellow a very nice professionally built 200+ hp 3.0

No question and good point.

[89911]

Originally posted by jpahemi
89 911,
Do you have more engine shots (before installing)? What heater duct are you using on the dist side, turbo? Who made your fuel preasure line?
Regards,
J.P.

The fuel pressure gauge is there because I have an adjustable fuel pressure regulator. I need to bump up my pressure 6-8 lbs over stock to go with the MAF. It is easier then having to hook up a gauge all the time. Fits on the pressure fitting on the fuel rail and uses a glycerin filled gauge. The backdated ducts are just off an older car. The left side needed to be altered to make room for the distributer. Very tight fit in there.

[jpahemi]

89 911,
What size fittings did you use for the fuel presure hose?
Thanks,
J.P.