Replace A/C lines with metal?

[Dr. No]

Has any used copper or aluminum lines to the long front/back A/C lines? What experience is there with this?

[david914]

Good question. My grandfather (who had worked on A/C and refridgeration) used to tell me that he didn't understand why Porsche used hoses instead of copper. He thought the idea of replacing the long runs of hose with copper would be a great idea. I guess it's more a matter of convenience as the copper would be even more difficult to run that the rubber hoses.

[Jim Sims]

"Pulling" (bending and forming?) solid aluminum or copper tube lines of sufficent wall thickness and strength to hold the pressure and ID (the suction line is required to have sufficient conductance to maintain flow under the available pressure drop - this means a larger size) through the convoluted paths and narrow openings from the engine compartment to the bottom of the car and then back up to the receiver/drier and evaporator would be a real chore. It is hard enough to do with rubber hoses. If one uses hoses for the tight part of the routing then that means an extra four fittings between the tubing and hose which is additional cost (one can buy four to six feet of hose for the cost of a fitting) and four more joints that can leak. A metal line running between the rear deck lid condenser and the front condenser or receiver/drier (the high pressure liquid refrigerant line) would be an advantage as it would lose heat to the environment (most of the time - stopped in traffic over hot asphalt there would be little or no advantage) and act as a supplement to the condenser(s). However, it is desirable to have the suction line somewhat insulated so it doesn't pick up any more additional heat from the environment on its route from the evaporator to the compressor. Normal grades of copper have a poor fatigue life and require good support to avoid failures from the vehicle vibration. Then there is the issue of the Bozo's with jacks crushing lines under the car; a rubber hose is somewhat more forgiving than a hard metal line. Cheers, Jim

[stormcrow]

I installed soft ACR copper line from the discharge hose after the rear condensor at the rear wheel, on to the filter/dryer, then on to the front condensing coil and then to the expansion valve.

Been on the car for about 2 years now and no problems. Used insulation around clips to hold the tubing in place.

Steve

"a Porsche does more then just go fast in a straight line"

[Dr. No]

Thanks for the replies. It would take a lot of leaky fittings to equal the flow through the walls of my current rubber tubing--you can actually watch it weep and drip. It was put together by some PO or his agent with hose clamps, I wouldn't be surprised if its radiator tubing. Therefore, just about anything would be better. I was thinking of rubber through the walls, then long runs of copper.

[Jim Sims]

I doubt you're seeing liquid refrigerant leaking out unless you keep your car in a drive in freezer. The weeping liquid is either water condensation (melted frost possibly indicating a clogged line) or refrigerant oil. Jim

[Nitrometano]

I want to do the same. Use copper tubing indeed rubber lines From rear to front and from front to rear the car.

[stormcrow]

The way I did mine was cut the liquid line near the rear wheel leaving it connected to the rear condenser. I then removed the fitting from the end of the hose that I cut and reinstalled it there. Purchased a flare adapter at HD (make sure it's Heavy Duty) to connect the copper to the fitting on the barrier hose. All connections to the Filter/Dryer, condenser and evaporator are flare connections. You can purchase a tubing bender for about 35.00 at JC Whitney. Tubing was 3/8 in size.

Steve

"A Porsche does more then just go fast in a straight line"

[pirin911]

Nitro:

de que pueblo de PR eres? Soy de Mayaguez y ahora mismo JO..O con los dos sensores de la volanta dañados.