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I broke my shift rod right behind where the ball cup attaches (under the shifter). I've got it disconnected but can't get it out of the car through the holes in the tunnel. Is there a trick to getting it out or do I have to drop the engine/tranny and pull it out the back? I really hope that's not the case.
Alternately, can this part be welded? The tube is torn pretty badly around 2/3's of the diameter. I don't know if the weld will hold or if its crazy to weld next to the fuel lines in the tunnel (ok, I'm pretty sure I know that answer). Thanks for any help. The car in question is a '78 911SC club racer with 175,000 miles. I've had a factory short shift installed for the past 3-4 years. I don't know if that contributed to the rod's demise or not. Regards, -Vic |
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Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: Marysville Wa.
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your worst case scenario is about to come true.
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Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Philadelphia area
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Vic--
I have spent a lot of time playing around with the shift rod (replacing shift busnings and a new wevo coupler. I just checked the factory manuals--get your jack and jack stands ready--engine/trans drop to replace shift rod. sorry, Alan
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1988 924 S 500 in US Black (the only color) 82 SC Guards Red/Black . (Sold) SSI's, No Cat, Bursch, H4's plus relays/wiring upgrade |
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There was a recent thread where a guy welded his shift rod in the car. He wetted down some fire blankets and welded the crack up in place.
Look it up, but remember he was fixing his, not replacing it.
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1977 911S Targa 2.7L (CIS) Silver/Black 2012 Infiniti G37X Coupe (AWD) 3.7L Black on Black 1989 modified Scat II HP Hovercraft George, Architect |
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Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: San Carlos, CA US
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This is ... welding where there is fuel line around?
Nothing is worth riskling for life for. Drop the engine and replace the rod is my opinion.
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Porsche 2005 GT3, 2006 997S with bore-scoring Exotic: Ferrari F360F1 TDF, Ferrari 328 GTS Disposable Car: BMW 530xiT, 2008 Mini Cooper S Two-wheel art: Ducati 907IE, Ducati 851 |
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Thanks for the replies. I played with the rod a little more after my original post and convinced myself either I was an idiot or it had to come out the back. I did consider cutting another access hole in the tunnel...
Thanks also for the tip on welding the rod. I'll check with some shops and see if they think it will hold up to hard use on the track. I suspect the right answer is new parts, installed the right way. -Vic |
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The shift rod does come out without an engine drop.
Remove the gear shift housing and rear footwell access cover. Remove the coupling from the tranny and strip the cup and clamp off the rod. Raise the car, support the engine on a floor jack. Pull the 4 engine mount bolts and slide the engine back as far as it will go. Remove the transmission mount from the underside of the transmission. Push the transmission up (I used a scissors jack) and slide the rod out underneath. It's a tight fit but it will come out. As the manuals say, installation is the reverse of the above steps. Hope this helps save someone a lot of pain. -Vic |
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I got mine out using the holes in the tunnel. Took some twisting and turning but it came out.
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Mark Scott Vintage 911 Racer 1967 911S 2.4L ROCKET Powered by Faragallah! www.scottassociatesracing.com |
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Just a guess but I suspect the rod and/or tunnel is different between the SWB cars and my '78 SC. I could twist the rod to meet the roof of the tunnel but the shift lever opening on my car needs to be a few inches longer for the rod to clear.
-Vic |
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