Before you spend a fortune on a new Air Flow Sensor

[ZOA NOM]

I opened my Air Flow Sensor up and managed to restore a linear voltage drop across the potentiometer inside.

The first thing was to confirm the rough spot by connecting a volotage source (9v battery) to pins 3-4, and reading the output at pin 2 while moving the swinging door SLOWLY. This is easiest to see with an analog meter, as the needle swings across the scale.



Next I opened the connector to see inside. There are two visible bayonnette connections on the backside, and a thick, rigid copper arm that has a round pickup pad on the end deep inside. I disconnected the two bayonnette connectors to gain better access to the inside.





Once inside, I used a Q-tip and electronic component cleaner to clean the surface of the printed circuit board foil runs inside. I also ran the swab across the pickup arm that sweeps across the foil run. A re-test showed no signs of a "dip" in the voltage output.

I have my motor out and plan to reinstall this weekend, so I won't know for sure if there is any difference in performance, but I am encouraged by the removal of the mystery inside the $400 box.

[kqw]

Looks like a bet. Would it have been easier to pry open the box (Black Cover) to gain access inside and then re-seal the black cover???

Just a question

[Jim Smolka]

I think the black cover is sealed so that one cannot access the circuits inside.

[ZOA NOM]

Yeah, sealed up tight. I tried lightly tapping around it's edges, but it's on there pretty good.

[ChrisBennet]

The cover comes off. Rubbery caulking holds it on. You can cut through the caulking with a razor and pry off the cover.
-Chris

[ZOA NOM]

I cut through the rubber seal and nearly cracked the plastic cover trying to pry it off. Be careful. The opening behind the connector was tight, but sufficient to allow cleaning of the foil runs inside.