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Registered
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: va
Posts: 387
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'71T engine re-install
Hi,
I have not been able to drive my car for over a year now - all because of some #@#$ studs that broke when removing the rusty heat exchangers. After taking it to multiple mechanics (the first one had it for over 3 months and treated it like it had the plague - he didn't touch it), I have it back with new studs. My question is this: are there any other things I should do to it while I still have it out of the car - short of rebuilding it? It does smoke a little on down shifts but I can't afford to rebuild it right now. Is it that much harder to replace the rear shocks with the motor in or should I do it now? Should I replace oil lines, etc? This was my first time removing a 911 engine, so obviously this will be the first time installing one as well. Any advice is welcome. Since it has been a year and I thought it would be a month at most, I wasn't as meticulous about noting things. (My 1 month memory being far superior to my 1 year memory. Thanks in advance, Allan |
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Registered
Join Date: Feb 2004
Location: Liberty Hill, TX
Posts: 212
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I can't really offer too much advice on what to do while the engine is out of the car, but I can tell you that replacing rear shocks is easy with the engine in place. It might be marginally easier to do it while the engine is out, but not enough to feel like you need to before you put it back in.
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John |
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Registered
Join Date: Jan 2002
Location: Long Beach CA, the sewer by the sea.
Posts: 37,731
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I don't think I'd make any decisions on rear shocks based on the engine install. They're pretty easy to get to normally. Of course, you can do it sitting on a stool inside the engine bay with it out, but I didn't find it hard with the motor in.
OTOH, detailing the bay is a LOT simple now. Check the wires that are hard to see and the linkages. Pretty easy to service the CV joints now as well. New oil lines? I'll let someone else chime in on that. If you got them off w/o boogering them, shoot, I'd use them. |
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Registered
Join Date: Nov 2002
Location: Planet Eugene
Posts: 4,346
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carefully push on the sound pad - if not resilient or if edges are fraying, generating crumbs, you should replace that now.
search on engine drop for install info - I posted a photo showing how to support one. Some people do this alone and with no fuss. Just remember it is a heavy object. It is not hard to put it in if you ride it and slant it up into the tunnel hole (so to speak). I'd suggest having a friend or two there. If you detail the engine & eng. bay, you may also want to replace all the bolts in sight - depends on your purtiness level. And... how aobut those mounts - are they still "rubbery" or do they feel hard? Did you get the alt. rebuilt? Less hassle now than later. |
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Registered
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The best thing I did, other than engine and engine bay detailing was to pull the shroud and clean the cylinder fins and oil cooler. The cooler was mostly plugged with gunk, now I have no cooling problems. It is some work, pulling carbs and such, but worth it. Valve adjustment is easy with the engine out too.
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Steve B. 1971 T 2.2 w/Zeniths Gruppe B member 171 Mid 9 Web Site Guy |
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Friend of Warren
Join Date: Oct 2000
Location: Lincoln, NE
Posts: 16,493
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In addition to what has been posted above, with the engine out I would:
1. Adjust the valves and install new valve gaskets. 2. Check and/or replace fuel lines as needed. Replace fuel filter. 3. Same with vacuum lines. 4. Replace the three fuses in the engine compartment. 5. Change oil and filter. 6. Replace fan belt and make sure you have 6 washers for adjusment of the belt. 7. Check oil return tubes for leaking. If they look really old I would replace them even if they are not leaking. 8. Replace the motor and tranny mounts if they are more than 5 years old. 9. Inspect CV joints. 10. New plugs, points, condensor, rotor, distributor cap and plug wires. 11. New air filter. That is all I can think of right now.
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Kurt V No more Porsches, but a revolving number of motorcycles. |
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