Running in a fresh Turbo motor?
 

Hi Gang,

Today is THE day when I pick up my baby with a freshly built engine :D

Just to wet ur appetite, here are some technical details:

- 930 P&C's
- C2T Head Gaskets
- GT2 EVO CAMs
- Titanium retainers
- Turbo racing valve springs
- Sodium filled valves
- PhBr Valve Guides
- ARP headstuds & rod bolts
- K27HiFlow
- Protomotive Stage 3 CHIP
- Protomotive Heater System (YAY! HEAT!)

Any tips for running her in properly?

I'm told to take it easy (under 4k RPM's) for the first 800-1000km's. At which point I take her back for an oil flushing, re-tensioning various bolts etc.

Opinions/suggestions etc?

Can't wait to feel the boost again :)

Merv - Bring it down the GOR with us tomorrow @ 5am!

No kidding, man. It'd be ideal... ;)

Hi Merv,

That sounds like a sweet motor. There is a motorcycle builder who recomends that you use a new motor fairly hard when breaking in. I can't remember where his site is.

Also let us know how you like the cams. I am going to recam this winter and I still don't know what cam to pick.

Have fun
Dean

Here is the link.

http://www.mototuneusa.com/think_fast.htm

Dean

Here is the breakin page

http://www.mototuneusa.com/break_in_secrets.htm

Dean

I'd ask for, and follow Todd's advice at Protomotive.


P.S. Congratulations, sounds really great. Enjoy!

Congrats It must feel great to have her back

Thanks for the tips guys :)

Adam, I'd love to come, but just had visitors over and I'm absolutely nackered! It's nearly 1am! Zzz Zzz Zzz! Count me in on the next one though :D

I must say, the GT2 CAMs makes the car sound awesome! Quite a lumpy idle, but once you're off idle, it's sweet! The chip supplied by Protomotive runs quite rich when cold, so it's a real biatch to keep idling at cold-start. Need to keep the rpm's up so it doesn't stall, but once warm, she idles beautifully. She'll definately need a re-tune/re-adjustment after the break-in period.

I haven't taken her past 4k RPM's as advised by the mechanic, but DAMN it's tempting to keep going when the boost starts to kick in :( I really wanna feel the power at 1.2bar! WHOA!

BTW, interesting break-in article. Certainly makes logical sense too. Will have to ask Todd what his recommendations are there.

The heads are twin-plugged prep'd, so when I save a bit more cash, I'm going down the 964 Twin Dizzy route. That coupled with Protomotive's Pressure Sensing Motronic upgrade will make the car even sweeter and more responsive. I can't wait!

I'll certainly be spending the weekend doing as much driving as possible, with hard short bursts to ~4k in all gears.

OK, off to bed! Ciao!

1. Fill upp with mineral oil, use lot's of revs, do not use boost, do lot's of engine-braking.

2. Drain the oil after 500 miles, change filter and fill upp with your favorite oil (prefferably fully synthetic).

3. Drive

Thanks beepbeep.

What needs to be "tightened" or "adjusted" after a run-in process?

Well if your engine is assembled correctly to begin with, there shouldn't be anything to adjust afterwards. Just check for leaks (and eventual excessive clatter from rockers).

I don't know your rebuild story but I assume that piston-rings are new. They need to be bedded and most people prefere less-slippery mineral oil while doing that. Also, lot's of vakuum (while engine-braking) helps "suck" the rings to bores and bed them easier. It all happends quite quickly, so it's just a matter of flushing out oil after a while with all metal particles that have been dislodged (luckily, mineral oil is cheap) and replacing it with what you want.
Not using boost when braking in will keep the turbo cool (good thing when using mineral oil beacuse it won't stand the heat as good ans synthetic) and subject rings to more vakuum.

Sounds like very nice ride.

hi merv,
glad to see she is back on the road.
so did welt give it to u again or did they stick by there quote this time?.
probably had a wash now too uh (;

p i c t u r e s ! ! !

Lots of in gear deceleration to go with the acceleration. You want to get pressure on both sides of the rings. Baby it too much and it will never break in.

Jeff

Thanks for the advice guys. Will do as suggested.

I won't be able to run full-boost until I can afford to upgrade my pressure plate. Currently using just the factory pressure plate with OEM disc (~460lb/ft capacity max). I'm planning to upgrade to a Kennedy Engineering Aluminium Pressure Plate, which supposedly handles up to 600lb/ft of torque with a stock G50 disc. That should be perfect for the Stage3 setup.

I love these GT2 EVO CAMs! A lumpy/rough idle, but ooooooh, she sounds sweet ;)

I can't wait to hear this engine at full song!

Hiya Matt! I can't wait too! I've been sticking to under 4k RPM's religously and it's damn boring! I can feel the boost kicking in, but I have to resist taking her any higher :(

BTW, how's your beast doing?

This is the break in regiment we tell customers with new/rebuilt turbo's at the shop where I work:

Stay under 4k for 1,000 miles, and only use about 1/4 throttle.

Then every 200 miles after that step it up another 1,000 RPMs and a little more throttly. by 2,000 miles you should be able to use full throttle and RPM range.

Also, we tell them never to switch to synthetic oil until 10k miles. Before that to use light weight dino oil, and not to change it terribly often (every 3k miles, but not more often). The reason behind this is that when you are breaking in an engine, you really want the parts to wear, if you use synthetic oil it takes about three times as long for the engine to really break in. Hell, they used to tell you to put things like Ajax into the oil of cars to help break them in quickly.

Merv,

A bit like lying on a bed with a naked Carmen Electra and not being able to impale her, eh? ;)

The beast is doing fine! Here are a few new photos of it:

http://www.holscope.com/Pelican_BBS/rsr_on_gor_01.jpg

http://www.holscope.com/Pelican_BBS/rsr_on_gor_02.jpg

http://www.holscope.com/Pelican_BBS/rsr_on_gor_03.jpg

http://www.holscope.com/Pelican_BBS/rsr_on_gor_04.jpg

Just a quick question..how long did it take to rebuild that engine?