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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1092446649.jpg
Here you can see that the new panel lines up nicely with the old flange. this will be easy plug welding. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1092446719.jpg |
these are pictures of where the rust has completely eaten away at the car. I will be making new panels for these just like I did in the areas around the suspension pan. Sometimes I feel like I am bringing this car back from the dead.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1092446771.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1092446884.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1092446904.jpg |
here are some pics of the almost ready suspension pan.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1092446968.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1092446985.jpg |
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ok, here is another update. This one is a little more interesting than the last one. The suspension pan has been welded in and will be painted with por-15 tommorow. Before any welding started the two peices to be welded were always cleaned with marine clean, then prepared with metal ready. If the piece (or one part of the piece) was going to be hidden after the welding it was painted with wurth alu-zinc and then welded.
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http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1093404694.jpg
Also, here is my engine before installation, http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1093404725.jpg and after http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1093404775.jpg |
The final prep and welding of the suspension pan took about 2-3 days (not full days). When looking at the pictures notice the many replacement peices. I made thess out of 22 gauge steel and it was pretty easy, just takes patience. If you have to make replacement peices be extra sure to measur the location of the suspension mounting points to make sure it is correct. You can see more about making these peices here,
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-912-technical-forum/176853-what-do-about-rust.html Also notice that the welds are kind of sloppy. This is partialy because i'm not a great welder and partialy because the alu-zinc makes welding a bit more difficult. I used it in some places and not in others and I could certaintly notice a difference in ease of welding. Still I think it is a good product just make sure that you get good penetration on your welds. |
Another update, today i welded in the gas tank support and then painted every thing. I used flat black por-15, it looks glossy because it has not dried yet.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1093489725.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1093489747.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1093489834.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1093489902.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1093489981.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1093490007.jpg |
some new updates from winter break, the floors are welded in but not yet painted. This took awhile to get everyting to line up jsut right but I am happy with the results. The chassis was kept from sagging by jacking it up from approx. The center of gravity and supporting it on a few 2x6's. The measurements that i had made of the chassis before cutting out the old floor were checked again and everything was straight. The door gaps and alignment also looked very good so over all i'm pretty confident that everything is straight and true.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1107472878.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1107472925.jpg |
OK, that was good progress over winter break, now heres what i did with my spring break. Cut out the rest of that nasty rust that you saw up in front of the floor panel. Had to take out the steering rack and brake master cylinder to get to it, basically reconstructed that whole area. Here are a few pics of the finished work, unpainted. Lots of work, but i feel much better about the car now.
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Great inspiration! I am getting ready to do a few of the same areas. Just curious, for repairs where you've butt-welded, how much gap did you leave between the panels?
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Probably depends on your setup, be sure to do plenty of practice before welding on the car. I am using a gasless MIG and any butt weld gaps were about an eight of an inch. However, most of the places where it looks like there are butt welds i actualy overlapped the two panels and made lap joints on both sides, this is probably easier and stronger, but not as pretty as really good butt welds. Sometimes I also drilled holes in one of the panels and made plug welds that basically just fill the hole and penetrate the other panel behind it, these are very easy and about as strong as spot welds. Good luck with your project, it sure is satisfying when you start to see results :) .
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Jesus man, I am in awe of your work. I appreciate my SC's galvanized panels all the more now...
ianc |
and some silver por-15 to top it off
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1113742661.jpg http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1113742697.jpg |
And then paint on the bottom, everything was wire brushed to bare metal, then degreased, acid etched and then painted with black POR-15 (3 coats). This can be a somewhat time consuming procces but should be well worth it. I will also add a few coats of rubberized undercoating.
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Right after the acid etch -
notice the bolting point for the front crossmember support. It was a good thing I saved it from when i cut that section out. It was a little difficult to locate in just the right spot but after a few tries it lines up perfectly. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1116904079.jpg heres a shot of a section that gave me a real hard time. It took me three tries to make this peice just right because it has a curve in two directions. I ended up using a torch so that i could bend it just right while it was clamped in place. http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1116904207.jpg |
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