Need experts on wide band O2 setups

[1fastredsc]

I've become aware of pelican's wideband o2 setup that they sell now. Since i have a race header system in my sc now, with no cat or o2 sensor, i need something to tune the cis system with. I'm in the dark right now with how much fuel it's being given. I know it's probably cheaper to bring it to a shop and have them hook up a sniffer to it and tune it, but i want something a little more permanent that will allow change as i change the car. So, i would mount the sensor on one of the headers, but they are jet hot coated, and i don't feel like paying to have them coat it again. So i thought well what about tapping into one of the exhaust inputs on my muffler (dual in/out setup). Problem is that it would only read exhaust from one bank, and i'd like to get a mix of both banks. So my question is, could i mount the sensor on one of the output's of the muffler and still get an accurate reading? I'm afraid that having it so far away from the main source of exhaust heat that it won't read right.

[Steve W]

Use the exhaust clamp Innovate sells and clamp it to the tip of one of the tailpipes so it's removable when you don't use it. The design of the clamp uses the venturi effect to eliminate reversion of outside air from contaminating the readings, so that full accuracy is maintained all the way from idle to full throttle. The distance and temp from the exhaust source doesn't matter nor affects the readings. In fact, too hot from being close to the exhaust manifolds is not good for the sensor. If you do use their clamp, one modification that I strongly suggest, is to use a bungee cord or wire to secure the clamp from falling out of the tailpipe. Tie the wire or clip the bungee to the clamp, and tie the other end around the rear lower fender strut support.

[Lukesportsman]

You could always install bungs in both pipes and just run a plug in the other. Then you can start to question the A/F ratio between cylinders and eventually install EGT's and adjustable timing equipment to help equalize them. Easier yet, though additional cost would be to purchase additional sensor and wiring and just swap them from the cockpit. I really like mine.

[1fastredsc]

Thank you for the information steve, i wasn't aware of this product. Luke, i was actually thinking of tapping two bungs, and just swapping between the two of them verifying that the readings are equals. Steve's idea sounds much easier, i may try that first. I wanted to modify the tips anyway to point them back, so i'll take some measurements while it's out and see what i can whip up.

[ssetek]

Originally posted by Steve W
Use the exhaust clamp Innovate sells and clamp it to the tip of one of the tailpipes so it's removable when you don't use it. The design of the clamp uses the venturi effect to eliminate reversion of outside air from contaminating the readings, so that full accuracy is maintained all the way from idle to full throttle. The distance and temp from the exhaust source doesn't matter nor affects the readings. In fact, too hot from being close to the exhaust manifolds is not good for the sensor. If you do use their clamp, one modification that I strongly suggest, is to use a bungee cord or wire to secure the clamp from falling out of the tailpipe. Tie the wire or clip the bungee to the clamp, and tie the other end around the rear lower fender strut support.

most wide bands are supposed to be 18 to 22 inches away from the turbo or exit from the head, too close will get the sensor to hot and to far will not allow the sensor to get hot enough.
the sensor is a heat pump cell that measures how hot the exhaust gas is , in my opinion is to install bungs and the plug them when not using them,
as far as in both headers unless you are using a sequential injection system or carbs its not nec, due to the motronic is a batch fire sys.