STOP, I need Brake help

[deoxford]

I just recieved a complete brake line set for my 1972 T , and I can't wait to put them on this weekend.
BUT, there are no instructions at all . Has anyone put this set on and can shead some light.
Thanks
Derek

here is the project
http://www.356-911.com/911restogallery/derekoxford911.htm

[deoxford]

help please

[deoxford]

bump

[Randy Webb]

why don't you just match them up to the exisiting lines?

[Zeke]

You need a metric flare wrench to start. You can use vise grips on the old lines, but not the new ones unless you like the look of a nut that has been mutilated by pliers. You need a 17mm and a 19mm open end wrench. Just pull the old stuff off and make SURE this is no dirt in the holes in the calipers and the lines. Best to pre clean these areas before disassembly and double check before installing the new lines. Just snug them up with no lube or anything until they squeak once.

You can rotate the flex lines before final tighening to get the shape of the twist away from the tire on the front when turning.
Also, someone here said yesterday that if you push the pedal down a bit and hold it with a stick, less fluid will run out.

Don't push your pedal to the floor when pumping to bleed. Stay in the upper 2/3rds of travel to avoid damage to the cup when it hits a dirty area in the m/c that it never went to before. Better yet, use a pressure bleeder and don't push anything.

Remember to clamp the overflow hose or you will have braake fluid everywhere. I use cheap fluid to flush out the system followed by ATE blue. You will know when the blue arrives at each caliper. Bleed until it's all blue and the cheap is gone. You don't have to use blue, but you should to use better than DOT 3.

[deoxford]

Zeke,
Thanks
Derek

[Jim Sims]

If you use the "push the pedal" method to bleed the brakes on a 1972 911 that's been kept in Alabama you'll likely damage (causing leaks and MC failure) the seals in the master cylinder (MC) by pushing them into the normally unused and therefore rusty/corroded sections of the MC bore. I recommend you get a power bleeder and a new set of rubber grommets for the connections where the feed lines from the reservoir plug into the MC. You'll also likely need PB blaster or Kroil aerosol applied penetrating oil for the rusty brake line fitting threads. A small pair of vicegrips may also be needed after you round off the fitting hexes (happens even with flare or tubing wrenches) while trying to break free the corroded brake line fittings.


What is the procedure for bleeding brakes?

Good luck, Jim

[David]

If you're using stainless lines, some of them take SAE standard wrenchs. Definently use flare wrenches!