Water/Methanol Boost Cooler

[Frostie]

Water/Methanol Boost Cooler

I found a interesting site selling water/methanol boost coolers. Interesting theory. They made it with a supercharger 5.0 in mind but the theory should work on a turbo 911 as well.

This is the site:

http://www.musclemustangfastfords.com/tech/0407mm_snow/

This is what they say at the site:

"Supercharging is fast becoming one of the most popular modifications to late-model Mustangs as 50-100 percent increases in horsepower and torque can be had without any other changes.

One of the byproducts of supercharging or compressing air is an increased air charge temperature--and at mild boost levels, this is not much of an issue. For greedy gearheads who like to pump up the manifold pressure, the higher air temperatures can result in pre-ignition and detonation, unless ignition timing (and subsequently power) is reduced. To combat this, some blower companies offer cooling units that use an air-to-air or air-to-water heat exchanger to cool the incoming charge, thus allowing you to use nearly the same amount of timing.

Injecting a small amount of nitrous oxide to cool the intake charge is also an alternative, but nitrous oxide isn't cheap, nor is the high-octane race fuel that many turn to. Snow Performance of Woodland Park, Colorado, offers an alternative that increases power without deflating your pocket book.

Methanol/water injection is a far more inexpensive option that allows you to safely increase ignition timing as well as manifold pressure or boost for improved performance. Its high latent heat of vaporization provides an increase in air density and this in turn results in better detonation control. And where an intercooler will reduce boost, the Boost Cooler will actually increase it.

The Snow Performance Boost Cooler kit is available in two stages. Stage One is for mild boost applications and includes a lower volume pump and adjustable boost pressure switch. Stage two includes an upgraded pump, as well as a boost dependent, variable control module to adjust the flow of the methanol/water mix. With the controller, a small quantity is injected at lower levels of boost with full injection at higher levels resulting in improved drivability. Retail prices are $299 and $399 respectively, and both kits include everything needed for installation with the exception of tools. You'll probably need to pick up the required 1/4-18 NPT tap and maybe a 7/16-inch drill bit, but basic hand tools and a drill are all that are needed. Installation takes approximately 3-4 hours.

Snow Performance's owner Matt Snow came out to the East Coast to assist in the installation of his kit on Andrew Sivori's '87 notchback. Sivori's coupe was a prime candidate for the Boost Cooler, as it was running moderately high boost from its Vortech T-trim supercharger with no intercooler. Although the Mustang is driven to and from the track, it doesn't see much street use otherwise, so Sivori had tuned the pony on 116-octane race gas. In this configuration, 549 rwhp and 523 rwtq was attained with 0 degrees of boost retard and 15 psi of boost. The power output is pretty stout given the relatively old-school engine combination.

Snow said we would see an increase over the race fuel, but he also explained that using the methanol/water combination with pump gas would result in more power than just race fuel alone. And one of the benefits to using this system is not having to fork over the money for expensive race fuel so we drained the tank and drove the car to the corner for some Amoco 93-octane.

We started with the timing retard set at 2 degrees and initial timing at 10 degrees. The Mustang turned the rollers to 493 hp and 477 lb-ft of torque and this would serve as our baseline as we were at 12.2:1 on our air/fuel ratio.

The kit directions include tuning tips for the controller. Snow set the variable controller to start injection at 3 psi and be in full swing at 5 psi. The methanol/water injection increased boost pressure 2 psi for a total of 17, but the air/fuel ratio took a dive, so we began making adjustments first to the timing retard, then to the fuel pressure and eventually the initial timing to lean it back out. Thanks to the Boost Cooler, we were able to decrease fuel pressure by 7 psi and increase initial timing to 13 degrees to bring back the air/fuel ratio to 12.5:1. This resulted in 571 hp and 516 lb-ft of torque at the wheels. That's over 78 hp from $1.50 worth of methanol.

Granted you have to factor in the cost of the Boost Cooler kit, but it's a far cry from the price of an intercooler and slightly less than a nitrous kit. After nearly a dozen runs on the dyno, we'd barely used an eighth of a tank of methanol and water. Talk about horsepower per dollar. The Boost Cooler also offers great results on diesel and naturally aspirated gasoline applications as well."

[Quicksilver]

Water injection is nothing new. Water expands about 1500 times when it goes from liquid to gaseous form. The resulting reduction in temperature from that expansion reduces the temperature of the intake charge just like intercooling. It also will reduce charge temperature thereby increasing the density of the intake charge. With some tuning this can give a power boost even on a naturally aspirated motor.

Using a water/methanol 50/50 mix doesn’t add more fuel, it just increases the efficiency. The methanol will absorb an equivalent quantity of water. This keeps the methanol from burning and changing the air/fuel ratio. The mix does evaporate better then just water so it cools the charge more effectively. This can let you get away with higher compression ratios, more ignition advance, higher boost levels, and lower octane levels. Another side effect is it keeps the water from freezing in colder climates.

The 1962 Olds F-85 Jetfire, from the factory, had a 10.25:1 compression ratio 215cid V8 with a Garrett TO-3 turbo. It used a 50/50 water/methanol injection to allow it to live under 5psi boost.

I would like to see back to back dyno numbers on a naturally aspirated, water injected car that has a knock sensor. It would be interesting. It could be better then spending a grand on an exhaust system with very limited results.


Wayne
BTW – Look at Spearco for water injection at a more reasonable price.

[Quicksilver]

Oh, forgot to mention,

If it is 100% humidity outside then water injections value is zilch.
The water has to evaporate.

Wayne

[Frostie]

Thanx for explaining the relationship of the Methanol with the water. I was a little curious about that.

I must admit I’m a little confused on how you would set this up with a naturally aspirated engine and the benefits. The same as you would a nitrous fogger kit below the carbs? I can’t really see much advantage, except for possible the massive expansion of the water to steam in the engine.

I still have lots too learn

[tsuter]

30 year old technology. Better off adding a seventh injector and injecting fuel. Like I do. That cools the mixture and adds power!!!
And $300? What a joke!!

You will reduce the carbon and have clean valves though....

[beepbeep]

This is old stuff.
AFAIK, Methanol is mixed just to keep water from freezing...water has much better specific temperature coeficient and less is needed to prevent knock so it's more suited to this than methanol. Water injection has been used from time to time by OEM manufacturers but it's really just a band-aid.
Instead of injecting water/alcohol, I plan running my engine on E85 (which is 85% ethanol...) ethanol has much higher octane rating and four times higher vapor energy than gasoline, so it cools down the boost charge four times better than gasoline and is much more resistant to knock.

[Grady Clay]

Try this thread:

Water Vapor Cooled 911-
The Rubbermaid Solution
Water vapor cooled 911 - the Rubbermaid Solution

Best,
Grady

[tobluforu]

Is it old news? Yes. Does it work? Yes. Would it do any good on a N\A performance wise? Probably not. Is it a band aid? Depends on how bad you car bleeds. If you want one that works, buy the aquamist system. Here in Ca with 91 octane, anything helps. Do I have it on my porsche? Nope. So I can't comment on if it would work with these cars. But I do have it on my 88 saab turbo. I inject water only. The system works off the duty cycle of the injectors. And it kicks ass! No way in hell would I be able to sustain 20 psi of boost with out it. If I unplug it, I can reach about 16. I have had it on my car for 4 years. The car is pushing 200,000 miles and runs like a bat out of hell. Is it the "Way to go" no. Buying a controller and injecting more fuel would be like stated above, but for a car that I drive everyday, it works great.

[Frostie]

thanx for the feedback guys