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it done blowed up
went to start the car this morning, and BANG! Uh oh...sounds like a CIS backfire. No worries...I've got a popoff valve installed. I try to turn it over...no go. I go back to check and the airbox is askew. I pull the cover and lo and behold, the popoff valve has popped off...completely
![]() I pressfit it back into the hole and the car started right up. So I'm assuming I can just glue it back into place. Any recommendations on what to use for the adhesive? I was figuring a 24hour epoxy would be fine, but am open to the "proper" suggestion. |
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I have found that trimming down the ribbed area to flush is the best way. Ive used JB weld in the past with no problems .
Kurt Williams
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Join Date: Aug 2003
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i used JB Weld, works fine.
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Information Junky
Join Date: Mar 2001
Location: an island, upper left coast, USA
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An epoxy should work . . .
if you tell me the materials, I can suggest the "proper" adhesive.
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It's a good idea to scuff the glue area of the valve with sandpaper. This give the adhesive some tooth.
Out of the box these things are too smooth, slick even. Glue doesn't like them. Be sure to clean everything thoroughly with a good degreaser too.
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Chuck Moreland - elephantracing.com - vonnen.com |
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Popping off the Pop-off valve - lucky you. Or wait, maybe the Porsche Gods were trying to get you into a 3.6 swap...
Happy Thanksgiving! Don
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same thing happened to me I just reglued it.
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Happened to me too. I sanded off the old adhesive and used JB weld to reattach.
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JB Weld is your friend.
![]() Get all the old sealant off and give a good cleaning with alcohol to remove oil residue. Then JB it back in by putting a 1/8"bead all the way around the bottom of the pop off valve. That way when push it back in a nice bead will form and seal it up. ![]()
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JB Weld is epoxy. You can use that, or get something in the way of a 5 min, 2-part epoxy and be one your way in 10 minutes. For these kinds of plastics, I like something of the nature of a polyurethane adhesive/caulk. Slow to dry and cure, though. Chuck is right, sanding and cleaning with something like acetone will help immensely.
Todd, when you said "blowed up," and I didn't see you this morn at Gelson's, I thought the worst. Glad it wasn't that. ![]() |
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GOT TURBO..
Join Date: Jan 2005
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Grind a groove into the Pop off valve so the epoxy has something to bond with.. Recheck your mixtures before you plan to run it..
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Wow, it worked ok. Much easier than (paying for) a new airbox.
I second what chuck said about the sandpaper. |
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Join Date: Apr 2002
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You may have fixed the pop-off valve from separating from the airbox but what caused it to completely come off instead of opening like it should have to release the pressure? By regluing it so tightly the entire airbox may blow apart next time if the valve isnt working properly and there is no where for the backfire pressure to vent.
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Alii&Maui
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Lube the O ring on the pop off valve. I hear the rubber tends to stick.
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3m 5200
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Lots cheaper and easier than the airbox. The pop off valve just paid for itself!
JoeA
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Quote:
Quote:
JB is great, generally.. but in such application I would use something like the 5200 extreme. It's a MarineTex product. although the 5200 would also be overkill for the application. 5200 is great and comes in various colors. Anything other than white seems to have a short shelf life in my experience. the sunroof site where I used MarineTex and why. '77 Sunroof Air Deflector Upgrade
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My pop-off valve came un-glued years ago when I was nowhere near home. The broken glue joint would not permit a leak-free press fit, so I was stuck. An oversized cork finally got me home. From then on I carry an adjustable rubber freeze-out plug in the tool kit, thus insuring that I will never need it.
Howard
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Todd, I wouldn't use 24 hour epoxy. You will want the glue to last much longer than 24 hours
![]() Sand the area well, glue it back down, and adjust the mixture 1/8 turn clockwise. Life is gud. |
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Air Medal or two
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the 5200 will remain flexable thrue history and will never let go
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