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kcope's Avatar
 
Join Date: Aug 2002
Location: Mass
Posts: 246
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Question Clutch keeps going out of adjustment

I actually know what the problem is and what is needed to correct it. I just don't know the where and how.
Its a 901 tranny in a 71 911T. My setup does not match any of the pics in the 101 project book. The cable runs through a hole in a bracket that is cast into the side of the tranny. The cable has worn through the side of the bracket.
I just happened to run into a retired 911 mechanic and described the problem to him. He told me that my problem was either in the shifter tunnel with the tube the cable runs through or the bracket on the transmission being worn through.
He told me that unless a bushing was fitted to the bracket the cable would keep going out of adjustment.
Ok anyone ever have this problem? Whats the tranny casing made of? Can it be Welded? Is there a repair part available?
Any help is appreaciated.
TIA

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Ken Copeland
70 GT6+ KC78784
70 Spit FDU84919
70 GT6+ KC81551 (Ok so I like 70s)
71 Porsche 911T
00 Chevy Pick UP
Old 09-05-2004, 08:22 AM
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Grady Clay's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Arapahoe County, Colorado, USA
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Ken,

Read these threads:

’70-’71 clutch
clutch cable for 70-71 901
and
'70-71 T.O. arm play?

Best,
Grady
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Old 09-05-2004, 08:54 AM
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Thanks Grady you are the man! My guide loop is completely worn through.
Is the case aluminium? can it be welded? Randy Webb's post shows what appears to be a repair but he calls it a modification.
Thanks agin at least I'm pointed in the right direction.
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Ken Copeland
70 GT6+ KC78784
70 Spit FDU84919
70 GT6+ KC81551 (Ok so I like 70s)
71 Porsche 911T
00 Chevy Pick UP
Old 09-05-2004, 11:05 AM
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Location: Arapahoe County, Colorado, USA
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Ken,

The casting is magnesium. If you have it welded, it should be a low temperature alloy and done by a REAL expert. You will need to replace the gasket and flange seal.

I have seen aftermarket bolt-on aluminum parts to replace the original loop. This is where you file/grind off the remaining loop and drill & tap into the casting to hold the replacement piece. I would additionally add epoxy to help secure the new part. I think this is the best solution and certainly the least expensive.

The other choice is to replace the transmission differential cover casting with a new part. I am never comfortable with that unless I reset the differential bearing preload and check the ring & pinion backlash. This is most appropriate during a rebuild.

You are going to want to replace the clutch cable. You should inspect the tube in the chassis, the pedal assembly, and the link to the clutch release arm.
The adjustment is discussed in the cited links. It is a PITA but very worthwhile doing correctly.

During this clutch cable saga, your clutch probably hasn’t been releasing fully and has stressed your syncros. When you get the clutch right, evaluate the syncro function.

Best,
Grady

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Old 09-05-2004, 11:34 AM
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