Questions for all backdaters....
 

Has anyone converted a later style steel front fender into an early style fender by welding on some extensions and bracketry to hold the turn signals? I saw in the UBT a scan from a magazine that mentioned it briefly. Has anyone actually gone down this route?

For those of you that went the fiberglass route, are you happy with the fit/finish of the glass fenders? Any issues with chips/cracking on a street car?

Thanks all,

Series900 on here has some excellent looking fender extensions. Do a search for 'ultimate backdating thread'

Thanks Mark. Been through the UBT many times but am interested in grafting something steel onto my stock fenders for a more finished look.

Re: Questions for all backdaters....
 

'911 & Porsche World' # 117 (December 2003) has an article were this was done. Not too much detail. I can scan if you like.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1096819977.jpg

In the latest issue of 911 & Porsche World, Keith S (he posts on this forum) backdates his 1974 2.7MFI car to early style. He welds the turn-signal housing from a rusty set of wings on to his original ones.

welding early to late works, bolting on FRP panels is easier, and the seam line is not hideous at the rear of the lens along the edge of the sc/c2 fenders, hell the factory made two seam lines with the bellows finishing panel. That coupled with a bolt on early long skin hood and maintaing late latching is a no brainer, but you can do it the hard way and change out the front bulkhead and bolt on a early hood, but sheez thats alot of work, compared to bolt on components, shameless plug, nudge nudge, wink wink, you know what I mean.... :>)

Damon,
What was the final pricing of your kit and are the parts avaiable seperately?

This is what I did:

http://muchos.co.uk/members/ks/earlyturn.jpg

Damon,
Thanks for the info. I too am interested in the pricing for the fender attachments and hood.

KS,
Nice work. Any more pictures of the process and final product?

Eric
You gitta buy the magazine. His car looks nothing short of stunninghttp://www.pelicanparts.com/support/smileys/smi3.gif Can you sense the jealousy Keith? ;)

http://muchos.co.uk/members/ks/KScarrera2.jpg
http://muchos.co.uk/members/ks/DSCF0158.jpg

Next to some common old belly-button RS. Everyone has one of those.... ;)

Re: Questions for all backdaters....
 

I've got a set of steel early fenders I'll sell you and save you a lot of hassle!!

Anyway, I decided on glass for several reasons. Most of which were weight. Also, I thought having the fender as one piece would avoid any issues that grafting on a flare might cause. That's why I have a set of early fenders for sale...

Thanks again all for the info.

geoff33,
At most I only want the part around the turn signal area. Would this piece match up with my SC fenders as shown in KS's post above or are the flares different?

How much you want for the fenders or just the fronts cut off? (Cheaper and easier to send down here to lovely So. Texas (106 heat index today).

Eric, if you can get a whole fender, go for it. Welding on the front section is feasible, but make life easy on yourself.

Now if you can't find a good fender(s), but you can find some with a good turnsignal area then cut and weld or talk to Damon. Filling in the seam between the f-glass and steel SC fender will be a lot easier than welding and filling.

Souk,
I'm beginning to come around to that way of thinking. I suppose the glass part could be bonded on in much the same way as flares and then filled to create the permanant change. Probably much easier and cheaper in the long run.

Still no price from Damon @ Series 900? Anyone know the cost for those jewels?

Hmm, bonding at the seam line will lead to cracking, I suggest either weld the metal on,or live with one seam via the FRP parts. By utilizing the hood and fender extensions that we make there is no cutting or welding, therefore a labor savings, and it can be returned to stock if needed down the road. One can also bolt early fenders on, but they lack galvy. early/late hood FRP-$500 CF-$700 L& R FRP fender extensions $430/pair. Bolt on! RCM's prototypes worked well, his car gets some strange looks, and I have to say I followed him out of town this weekend, car looks great. also make S,RS front and rear bumpers, RSR stuff too, working on a really cool bumper mounting method, picked it off one of the cars at the LRP vintage. email series900@nhvt.net

Damon,
What parts would I need to add to the FRP fender extensions to finish the turn signal off (i.e. lenses, bulbs, grill, light housing??)?

Damon,

If you have a flange face at the bolting surface, why can't someone just bond it, then fill it? I would think it'd be do able, and with minimal filler, the surface should be good. But then I'm not a body guy.

As for the early steel, I got a pair for $350. I'll get them blasted and and recoated. With a coat of Rhino liner on the backside over the paint, I don't think I will rust anytime soon, and it'll help with road debris impact. If I want to go further, I can get it hot dip galvanized.

Or just get F-glass fenders. No matter what, you end up doing, you'll still need turnsignals. There are low cost solutions, pricy solutions, and the stock solution (and pricey) to turnsignals. You'll also have to cut the rear reflector panel.

You can also try Dave at TRE. I just had some email with him and they seem to have some pretty good solutions for the "backdater".

Jeff