chain tensioner and ramps installation 1980sc

[nicfranc]

I removed the muffler and the rear tin to get to the left side chain box.
The right one is a bit more work. Have to relocate the AC and remove the engine support.
Lots of labor involved but I am degreasing and cleaning as I go.

I opened up my 1980sc chain boxes that have 297,000 miles on them to survey what the present condition is.
I have rebuild kits for the chain tensioners and new ramps but am now debating whether to move forward or wait to the winter to do the work with an Engine drop.

There does not seem to be much room to work on the installation of the inboard ramps.
The ramps actually look fine. In fact the tensioners seem fine as well.

I have a gasket set for the chain covers so I might just leave well enough alone and button it up.

I also bought collars for the tensioners I guess that would be worth while installation.
I do not plan on installing the pressure fed tensioners. I figure if these lasted this long then why not just rebuild them and throw the collars on.


Knowing what I know now I think I would do this with the engine out of the car but i am beginning to say that about a lot of repairs and maintenance on these cars.
Learning as I go.

[nicfranc]

I opened up the chain housing and everything looks good.
I bought ramps and rebuild kits for the tensioners and safety collars but
something tells me maybe I should put the new gaskets and nuts on and call it a day.

What would you do.
(Wait…..before you say it….pressure fed tensioners are not an option this go around)

All input is cherished.

[timmy2]

If I remember correctly, the inner ramps were a pain even with the engine out on a stand, but if it were me, I'd do everything and cross it off the list.
Unless you have a complete drop planned for the future.

[nicfranc]

I was hoping to get a few driving seasons out of it then rebuild it as it has close to 300K.
But I have to say it runs perfectly.

I was just trying to do my due diligence and avoid catastrophic failure seeing how it is a high milage car.

The reason I did not drop it is because I know I would have just kept going and probably missed the summer. slippery , slippery slope.

Having a a blast though….. driving as well as wrenching.

Thanks for checking in.

[db_cooper]

I would just go ahead and loosen all the valve adjusters to help keep the cams from rotating or better still..remove the rocker arms noting with care the original locations.

Then loosen the big camshaft nut. Pull the tensioner and ramps. The inners are fiddly..a small angle end pry bar will pop them out and help put the new ones back in.

As I recall the inside chain ramps have a different color, or at least two of them do. They are directional too with a long and short side.

Get everything put back together with the camshaft nuts loose and install the #1 rocker arm, at TDC #1 and adjust the valve then set your camshaft timing. Take your time and get the spec on the number. Torque the camshaft nut..check the camshaft timing and then do the same on the other side #4.

Camshaft timing is probably off as the engine sits right now as the chains have stretched at 250k miles. It is worth the effort to set the camshaft timing when replacing the tensioners.

If the engine is not drinking oil and the compression numbers are good, drive it another 250k.

[nicfranc]

What a pain in the butt installing chain ramps with engine in the car without a lift.
Lift would have made it manageable…..maybe.

Definitely a much more humane job to do with the engine out.

Amazingly enough the old chain ramps were in pretty good shape for 297K miles.

[timmy2]

One more thing to cross off the list.
PITA,,,,I guess my memory isn't going yet...

[nicfranc]

The right side took three times as long because you have to remove the engine brace/yoke. Major PITA.

I thought the existing ramps would have shown a lot more wear for 297K miles but they were in decent shape.

When you pull out the outboard ramps there is a little plastic clamp on one side of the ramp that breaks off.

I would recommend if you are going to do this with the engine in the car that you stuff a rag in the opening to the engine so you do not get bits of plastic down in there. Make sure you put a rag above and below the chain because that little plastic tab can get away from you as I found out and had to fish it out. Luckily it did not get beyond my reach.

[timmy2]

Did you rebuild the tensioners or just install the guards?

[911Freak]

It might just be the pics but both of your tensioners look nearly fully extended indicating and verifying this is a high mileage engine. If it was me (btdt) i would not button it up and check it off the list without rebuilding/replacing those tensioners. Seriously. Those look like they couldn't effectively tension the chains one more mm, then your chain slips a tooth and your rebuilding your engine after the valves crash into the pistons etc. expensive, painful and preventable.

You have the tensioner rebuild kits and collars now, why short cut or delay with so much risk?!

I R&R my tensioners with engine in car, working on a gravel driveway at the time, you can do this!

Just my cautionary .02.

Jason

[nicfranc]

I had the kits and was all set to rebuild the Tensioners but I thought they were working fine so i just put the collars on just in case. Easiest part of the job.

I will rebuild the tensioners when I do an engine drop and maybe put new chains in.

If I had to do it all over again I would have definitley pulled the engine and worked like a gentleman. I think I would have saved a lot of time as well. I Just was afraid I would have gotten caught up in wanting to do too much and would wind up missing a good deal of the driving season.

My Montra is ABD = Always Be Driving (I am trying to never be more than 3 or 4 days off the road during the season….I know, I know wishful thinking)

A revue for those interested:
This is what I did so far as a relatively new first time Porsche owner flying by the seat of my pants and being talked through the Porsche slippery slope by the good people on this board and of course the great customer service at Pelican Parts (Thank You Glenn!)
I will list the cost of everything in the near future.
I bought the car from a friend for $8,000

Degreased Underside

New Front and Rear Hood Struts (30 minutes for all three, 12" Hemostat is the key)

Replaced Spark Plugs, Rotor & Cap (Original Porsche Spark Plug Tool a huge help here)

Air cleaner and new air box straps, new fan belt

Valve adjustment, new gaskets and hardware (next time definitely with engine out)

Replaced Shift Coupler Bushings (Thank You Ed) huge improvement in shifting.

Replaced shifter shaft bushings (shaft and cup) big improvement

Transmission Oil Change (Kendal Hypoid Oil)

Oil change ( Brad Penn)

Replaced as many hoses as I could reach.

Deleted CAT installed M&K Pre Muffler and Single in Single out Sport Muffler
(SSi's not in budget)
(Exhaust system was a huge improvement in sound and performance Thank You Brian!)

Bought Cocomats that go nicely with the petrol blue. I love them! Thank You Drew of Cocomats.com (He is the owner of the Co. and takes your calls and follows up to see how you like the Matts, Great Customer Service & made in USA

Cleaned and rejuvenated original carpeting (shampooed and steamed clean)

Safety Collars and new Chain Ramps new gaskets and hardware.

Next Up:
Brakes:
Bought new front rotors and pads
Might as well do bearings while i am in there.
Debating whether to rebuild calipers myself or have PMB do it.

Future Project:
Refinish Fuchs !!!!
Going to paint like original: Middle Pedals Black and Satin Rims

Just A Note:
I am the second owner and my car has 287,500 miles with no pop-off valve and the original chain tensioners that are non pressure fed.
The engine does not burn oil and runs great.
Also no broken Head Studs!….Thank the Porsche Gods !!

Eventually, when the day comes I will rebuild the Engine but in the meantime I am going to drive the hell out of it !!

Thanks to all the good people here on the Pelican Forum who are so generous with their knowledge. You encouraged me to dive in and buy the car and have guided me around all the potholes.
Sorry for the long post.
Just thought maybe it could help some new comers as well as thank the seasoned veterans.

[nicfranc]

Originally Posted by 911Freak

It might just be the pics but both of your tensioners look nearly fully extended indicating and verifying this is a high mileage engine. If it was me (btdt) i would not button it up and check it off the list without rebuilding/replacing those tensioners. Seriously. Those look like they couldn't effectively tension the chains one more mm, then your chain slips a tooth and your rebuilding your engine after the valves crash into the pistons etc. expensive, painful and preventable.

You have the tensioner rebuild kits and collars now, why short cut or delay with so much risk?!

I R&R my tensioners with engine in car, working on a gravel driveway at the time, you can do this!

Just my cautionary .02.

Jason

Is the shaft extension maxed out ?
What is the maximum distance the shaft extends ?
If i rebuild the tensioners won't they still be overextended.

[tonivteu]

when the day comes I will rebuild the Engine but in the meantime I am going to drive the hell out of it !!

[Steam Driver]

I was thinking the same thing as a previous poster. Replacing the tensioners won't correct over-extension. The fact that they're overextended would indicate a worn chain and/or sprockets, probably both. And at 297K that situation wouldn't be surprising or abnormal. The extended tensioner is because of it's taking up the slack for the worn components. Which is one of the things the tensioner is supposed to do.