Air Tools: What to buy?

jpachard · 10-06-2004, 03:06 PM

I will be purchasing some air tools in the near future. What do folks you recommend? I haven't been able to get any good comparison info between companies.

Cheers, James

ChrisBennet · ChrisBennet's Garage

I love the Ingersol Rand impact wrenches. I had a 2131 and now I have a 2135T. A buddy has borrowed mine this summer when his Snap On wasn't strong enough. These wrenches produce around 600 ftlbs of torque in reverse. A "normal" 1/2" impact wrench is around 250 ftlbs.
My other air tools are cheapies but a cheap impact wrench isn't that great a deal if it doesn't take the nut off.
-Chris

rfuerst911sc · 10-06-2004, 05:02 PM

I don't have any input on brands but I'm a firm believer that you have to setup your garage so it's easy to use your air tools,I find too many guys I work with have air tools but don't use them,when I ask why the most common answer is it's a pain in the ass to drag everything out.My air compressor is at the front of my garage right next to the 220 volt receptacle,above it is my hose real with 100 ft. of air hose,when I want air I plug in my compressor,the 30 seconds or so it takes to get to full pressure I can reach all my air tools and I'm ready to go.Make it easy to use the tools and it turns out you'll use them.Good luck with your purchases.

scottb · 10-06-2004, 05:06 PM

I think it depends on what you anticipate doing with the tools. I'm a now-and-then DIYer, so the Chicago Pneumatic tools from Harbor Freight have been fine, and the price is right. On the other hand, if you're a professional, then one would think you'd want something like Snap-On or IR (Harbor Freight also has decent prices on IR stuff).

curiousone940 · curiousone940's Garage

We use IR and Snap-On at the shop....for home use, I have a Craftsman 150 p.s.i. compressor (33 gal.) and use IR impact wrenches.

Formerly Steve Wilkinson · 10-06-2004, 05:21 PM

Be aware that the efficacy of your air tools--particularly impact wrenches--has a lot to do with the capability of your compressor. A couple of years ago, I bought an impact wrench specifically to take off a certain nut, I think it was on the end of the crankshaft, and it didn't do scheiss even though all the specs--power, torque, air psi--were right. Took it to the shop down the road and they laughed, hit it once with their wrench and the nut spun free. Said, "You ain't gonna do the job with one of those little DIY Craftsman shop compressors, you need the big tank over there, against the wall." They were right. I haven't used the tool since then. A big ol' air tool with a home-workshop compressor won't do much when you get down to the short hairs.

Stephan

ChrisBennet · ChrisBennet's Garage

Quote:

Originally posted by rfuerst911sc
I don't have any input on brands but I'm a firm believer that you have to setup your garage so it's easy to use your air tools,I find too many guys I work with have air tools but don't use them,when I ask why the most common answer is it's a pain in the ass to drag everything out.My air compressor is at the front of my garage right next to the 220 volt receptacle,above it is my hose real with 100 ft. of air hose,when I want air I plug in my compressor,the 30 seconds or so it takes to get to full pressure I can reach all my air tools and I'm ready to go.Make it easy to use the tools and it turns out you'll use them.Good luck with your purchases.

I leave the hose reel w/air hose attached to the compressor for quick access. I have a valve attached to the output of my compressor that I close when I'm done using the compressor. Otherwise the air pressure will leak down overnight. When I need to break free a nut I just open the valve and brrruupp away.
-Chris

KFC911 · 10-06-2004, 05:48 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by Formerly Steve Wilkinson
Be aware that the efficacy of your air tools--particularly impact wrenches--has a lot to do with the capability of your compressor. A couple of years ago, I bought an impact wrench specifically to take off a certain nut, I think it was on the end of the crankshaft, and it didn't do scheiss even though all the specs--power, torque, air psi--were right. Took it to the shop down the road and they laughed, hit it once with their wrench and the nut spun free. Said, "You ain't gonna do the job with one of those little DIY Craftsman shop compressors, you need the big tank over there, against the wall." They were right. I haven't used the tool since then. A big ol' air tool with a home-workshop compressor won't do much when you get down to the short hairs.

Stephan

I don't understand...if you're putting 90 psi to the wrench, why does the 'size' of the tank matter? I too have a Craftsman 150 psi (I set it at 90 for my air tools) w/ an I/R 2131 impact wrench which works great. The I/R impact wrench was highly recommended to me by a couple of pros as 'the one' but I've selected the less expensive Campbell Hausfeld for most of my other air tools. Stephan, was it your tank, or the wrench that wouldn't get the job done? I'm betting the wrench...

fred cook · fred cook's Garage

Some things to consider:

1) Not all quick disconnects are created equal. Buy the disconnects with the largest possible internal ports (i.e. 3/8" is better than 1/4"). For really tough jobs that might be near the torque capacity of the air wrench, connect the hose directly to the wrench. It can make a huge difference in the ability of a wrench to remove a stubborn nut.

2) When not using the compressor, drain the tank. Unless you have a dryer/filter on the air intake, you will collect moisture in the tank. Moisture leads to rust and a rusty tank could rupture with catastrophic results!

3) A really good wrench such as an IR 2131 or equivalent is rated at its max torque at 90 psi line pressure. A 25-30 gallon tank with a 4-5 hp compressor should be enough to take almost any bolt loose on an automobile. In extreme cases you might have to apply torque, let the tank pump back up and hit it again but the fastener in question WILL eventually come loose. The only exception might be a bolt that is terminally rusted. The secret is having a good wrench and some patience.

Good luck with your tool hunting/selecting!

Fred Cook
'80 911SC coupe

dean · 10-06-2004, 06:49 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by fred cook
Some things to consider:

2) When not using the compressor, drain the tank. Unless you have a dryer/filter on the air intake, you will collect moisture in the tank. Moisture leads to rust and a rusty tank could rupture with catastrophic results!

I disagree with this statement. You should drain the water out every day or week. But you don't have to drain the air. I also have a shut off ball valve on the tank output. I try to shut it off every night.

Also when tanks fail due to rust they develop pin holes and start to leak. They don't explode.

They have different duty air tools. Commercial, industrail duty.

IR is a good brand.

Dean

A Quiet Boom · A Quiet Boom's Garage

I prefer IR tools, never broken one even though I abuse the heck out of them. Make sure the CFM of your compressor is high enough to power the tool or use a large tank and work in stages. At my shop we had two 5HP piston compressors, they couldn't keep up with my small sandblaster or my big IR impact wrench under constant duty. Last year we (I) installed a 15HP Boge rotary screw with chiller/evaporator, oil separator, water separator (between compressor and tank) and auto drains on everything. The CFM on the screw is over twice that of the combined piston compressors at a lower PSI. That's an important note BTW. Most compressors are rated at a certain CFM and a given pressure, if your tool requires 10CFM at 90 PSI and your compressor puts out 10CFM at 150 the CFM at 90 will be less than max and most likely not enough for the tool. This assumes I'm remembering everything correctly.

Zeke · 10-06-2004, 09:13 PM

Quote:

Originally posted by KC911
I don't understand...if you're putting 90 psi to the wrench, why does the 'size' of the tank matter? I too have a Craftsman 150 psi (I set it at 90 for my air tools) w/ an I/R 2131 impact wrench which works great. The I/R impact wrench was highly recommended to me by a couple of pros as 'the one' but I've selected the less expensive Campbell Hausfeld for most of my other air tools. Stephan, was it your tank, or the wrench that wouldn't get the job done? I'm betting the wrench...

This IS confusing. But, here's something that no one has mentioned. The air hose itself. I have different kinds. The bright orange and blue ones you see and that say they are 1/4" do not serve well. A quality hose does a better job.

That having been said, I have a 3/8 ID rubber hose that I've used for 20 years min. Probably 25. Now, that's a quality hose!Something I learned about air/gas in lines many years ago states that the ID needs to be bigger as the length gets longer for the same volume to pass thru. It works. My 50' 3/8 hose with the same 1/4" fittings will turn a nut that I can't budge with the same impact on one of those orange lines.

YMMV, but, as pwd72s says, "That's my story and I'm stickin' to it."

911S Targa · 911S Targa's Garage

I voted for Ingersoll-Rand. Best out of the brands listed,shop proven.

RoninLB · 10-06-2004, 11:00 PM

I have a real nice IR 3/8 ratchet, IR109, 10-60ft#

911pcars · 10-07-2004, 12:24 AM

The problem of home-type air compressors is the max. 90 psi or so they're capable of generating. The pro shops (and for those with larger budgets) use two-stage compressors. These are able to generate 150 psi.

Nothing like having 150 psi to generate torque. Makes all the difference. That said, good pneumatic tools are also more efficient and thus are able to make up for the lack of ultimate pressure or maximize the pressure you have available.

BTW, a pneumatic ratchet handle is not designed to loosen a tightened nut. Use the handle to break a fastener free, then pull the trigger to spin it off (or on). The tool lasts much longer. I prefer a 1/4" drive ratchet handle for most engine compartment work. 3/8" drive tools are too bulky.

Hope this helps,
Sherwood

KFC911 · 10:11 AM

Thanks all...I'm learning stuff here! Sherwood, I'm still confused... Although my Craftsman will put out 150 psi, I believe all of my air tools are rated w/ a max of 90 psi, so that's what I set the line pressure at. If, as Fred states, the I/R wrench achieves max torque at 90 psi, why would you want the line pressure to be 150, and is there any danger or downside to cranking it up to a max psi beyond what the tool is rated for?

ps: And a follow up... Is the I/R 'max torque' @ 90 due to it's actual peak, or is it's 'max torque @ 90' stated because that's what the wrench's max psi is rated at...in other words, could I crank it to say 120/150 and get even more torque (not that I've ever needed it)?

widebody911 · widebody911's Garage

150 PSI @ ____ CFM?

jpachard · 10-07-2004, 10:09 AM

Thanks guys. I don't have to worry about pressure since I'm running off a nitrogen bottle. It looks like IR will be the choice. Thanks for all thre great input.

Cheers, James

KFC911 · 10-07-2004, 10:09 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by widebody911
150 PSI @ ____ CFM?

I'll have to check on that...I don't recall.

fred cook · fred cook's Garage

Just for the record, I personally have been present when one air tank exploded. When the pieces were examined, it was apparent that a weld had rusted along the entire length of the tank causing the failure. Fortunately, the air tank was in a separate equipment room and no one was injured. The easiest way to get the moisture out of an air tank is to open the drain cock on the bottom of the tank and allow the air pressure to blow the moisture out.

As to the max torque vs. pressure, it is probably likely that you could get more torque with more line pressure. However, most air tools are designed to operate at the 90 psi level and going over that pressure would likely shorten the lifespan of the seals in the tool. I guess it just depends on how badly you want to remove a bolt/nut vs how deep your pockets are. Most home units can be regulated to get line pressures up to 120-150 psi, but the problem is reduced tank capacity. Since most home hobby mechanics can't justify spending mega-bucks on a large professional system, waiting for the tank to fill back up becomes necessary. It is a case of "do the best you can with the resources that you have available".

Fred Cook
'80 911SC coupe