Quick update, i used the pushing/pulling method of correcting the fuel mixture for the time being since i can't do this while the car is running. I'm going to continue to do some analysis based on some insight and hints i got. But so far that method i used for adjusting the fuel got the car to run awesome, it idles smoother than i ever remember. I mean the idle was always constant, but if you listened closely, it sounded like it always skipped a beat or something. Turns out that the car was running about 1/4 of a turn too lean. Now it idles with a strong steady rumble without any audible skipping whatsoever, maybe tomarrow i'll take her out for a spin :D.

what is the pushing pulling method????

With the car warmed up and idling, if you raise the sensor plate and the revs rise then you can go richer. If you lower the plate and the revs rise then you can go leaner. If both raising and lowering make the revs go down then you are set correctly.

I just purchased a rebuilt fuel distributor for $ 495.00 from specailtauto.com in texas. I just typed in my search engine for bosch f.d. and his sight came up. He was also very helpful on the phone with a ton of questions i had. This was a bosch f.d. that he sent me or he willl rebuild yours.

That's still a steep dive in price, i don't know if i want to throw that much into the injection if it idles fine and runs very good. I think i'll just enjoy it as much as i can, continue adjusting where needed, and save up for tbitz efi conversion.

Just a quick update, i figured out the oscillation problem. It seems to only do it when the car is running lean, if it runs rich (idle hunts) it's perfectly fine, if i get the mixture just right, it's fine. But if it's lean, it will do that oscillation thing. Anyhow, just though i'd share that with everyone.

The push pull method is good to know. I wasn't aware that this was an approved solution.

Are there any drawbacks or hazards of doing it this way?