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Join Date: Apr 2003
Location: Las Cruces, NM
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Cis
This is a really easy question, and i'd search but i'm too lazy since this is a yes or no question. Can the cis fuel mixture be adjusted while the car is idling? Because i always turn the car off and adjust thinking that the adjustment screw and hole don't line up properly unless i move it myself (by hand). And if so, is it better to put the tool in after startup, or put in the tool, then start up the car?
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2007 Mazda 3 hatch 1972 Porsche 914 roller with plenty of holes to fix 
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10-06-2004, 03:38 PM
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Somewhere in the Midwest
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: In the barn!
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Yes...and insert after start up...take it out, and rev the engine...
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10-06-2004, 03:41 PM
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Is there a chance of me pushing the plate down through that hole and leaning out the mixture that i should be aware of before i try this?
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2007 Mazda 3 hatch 1972 Porsche 914 roller with plenty of holes to fix
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10-06-2004, 03:45 PM
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Somewhere in the Midwest
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: In the barn!
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Take a look at the drawing of the air meter assembly. You'll see that it is not possible, unless you have Kung Fu fingers to damage the air sensor plate with a 3mm allen in the little hole where you would insert it.
You may have a rubber plug between the fuel distributor and the rubber boot, pull it out and don't lose it (I don't have one and don't need it). Insert the allen in the hole and aim it straight down the hole, you'll feel the allen screw head or the lever arm. After doing it once or twice, you can do this with your eyes closed and hit the allen head everytime. Make sure the 3mm is seated and make small adjustments of 1/8 or 1/4 turns. Don't go crazy and then post a thread later about how to get it all back to normal...and if you have Kung Fu fingers...go really easy 
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10-06-2004, 03:51 PM
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Thank you, that's all i was wondering.
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10-06-2004, 04:07 PM
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Ok, well i'm doing this adjustment as i post these questions, now, i can't find it (sounds like when we men complain of not finding the g spot). It seems like the plate oscillates like crazy at idle and i can't get a firm grasp on the screw. I don't see how i can screw this up, the whole's diameter is so tight on the tool that's there's only like 3mm of play in either direction.
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10-06-2004, 04:16 PM
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Location: Marysville Wa.
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an oscillating plate is a sign of a bad fuel distributor. it should be steady.
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10-06-2004, 04:35 PM
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Mine oscillates, I could video tape it if you guys would like, but it definitely oscillates. Steadies out with rev, but then oscillates at idle, and that's with my idle at 1k rpm.
EDIT: And although it oscillates, the car runs great. Seems to idle fine and all that. EDIT#2: Fuel distributor how much? 1.5k, that's insane.
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2007 Mazda 3 hatch 1972 Porsche 914 roller with plenty of holes to fix
Last edited by 1fastredsc; 10-06-2004 at 05:17 PM.. |
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10-06-2004, 05:12 PM
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it will also have quite high HC when it oscillates. sometimes you can even steady it by hand, and as soon as it's revved a bit, it starts again.
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10-06-2004, 10:16 PM
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Somewhere in the Midwest
Join Date: Oct 2001
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I have not been wrenching on CIS 911's as long as JW has, but I'd be interested to see a video of that oscillation. Is such an ocillation indicative of poor valve seating? John?
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10-06-2004, 10:24 PM
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Designer King
Join Date: Mar 2004
Location: Toronto, ON Canada
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Does the oscillation of the plate accompany a hunting engine idle speed? If that is the case then you may have simply made the mixture too rich. Go back in 1/16 turn increments and see if it steadies. You can do this w/ the engine off if the oscillation makes it hard to get the tool in properly.
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10-07-2004, 05:19 AM
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i've seen this several times over the years, two in the last few months, 78SC and 77 930. once you have it, it ain't going away with any adjustment. a rebuilt, or different fuel distributor always solved the problem. i've tried to nail down why this happens, and have discussed it with the guys who do the actual rebuilding, even talked to steve at rennsport, and no one can positively ID the actual thing that causes it. some have heard of it, some haven't. there's a little cap at the top of the bore for the piston that i believe gets loose or distorted. i assume this because i was looking into the top center outlet for the control pressure, on the wacko 930 unit, and noticed a dent or dimple on a little derby looking piece. in the new unit, and all my used ones, it was not dimpled. not to say that you will see a dimple on your wierd one.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 Last edited by john walker's workshop; 10-07-2004 at 07:59 AM.. |
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10-07-2004, 07:56 AM
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Somewhere in the Midwest
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Interesting John. Thanks for sharing.
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10-07-2004, 07:59 AM
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see the last post in this thread. my suspicions have been confirmed.cis help please!
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10-07-2004, 08:04 AM
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Somewhere in the Midwest
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10-07-2004, 08:30 AM
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So what am i looking at as far as $$$ to fix this? Pelican lists a new one at 1500 bucks, if that's the case, i'll just let the car sit till i get tbitz efi conversion.
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2007 Mazda 3 hatch 1972 Porsche 914 roller with plenty of holes to fix
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10-07-2004, 08:51 AM
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Somewhere in the Midwest
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Rebuild it.
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10-07-2004, 08:54 AM
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80-83 FDs were unobtainium fairly recently, so you may need to find a good used one, or find a rebuilder. problem is, if they rebuild your unit, it may come back with the same problem, unless they have a repair part. so discuss that particular part with the rebuilder, and see if they can replace it.
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https://www.instagram.com/johnwalker8704 8009 103rd pl ne Marysville Wa 98270 206 637 4071 Last edited by john walker's workshop; 10-07-2004 at 09:41 AM.. |
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10-07-2004, 09:28 AM
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Who rebuilds these fuel distributors?
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10-07-2004, 10:15 AM
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i hate to post info like that which bypasses pelican. maybe pelican can cut you a deal on a non-bosch rebuilt unit.
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10-07-2004, 10:24 AM
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