What is this car worth?

[blackbird225]

I put this in another thread that went completely ignored.
PLEASE give me an idea what I should ask or expect to get for the roller I'm selling right here

I have people who are writing me off the auction wanting to end early, and they want to know what my asking price is of course.
I was hoping to fetch at least $3k. Some here have suggested parting it out. I would hate to do that, but I need the $$ in a big way.

TIA

michael

[konish]

Michael,
Not sure how to answer your question. Your car is worth what people are willing to pay for it. Truth be told, the botched repair and misaligned doors would NOT make this a 9 out of 10 car. Maybe a 7 out of 10 becuase it does look nice.

Also, you are kind of tipping your hand when you post things like needing the money in a big way...you are just asking for a low baller with cash to steal this from you.

You are in a tough situation with the car...your top dollar requirments just don't reflect what the market wants to pay unfortunately.

Parting a car is a PITA. You think you get tire kickers now? I also found that parting a car invites a whole new level of low balling to an almost insulting level.

Hang in there, but be prepared to sell it for what you can get unless that threshold is absolutley unacceptable...end early if the offer is 70% of where you want to be...$$$

[onewhippedpuppy]

Just a guess, I'd say $1500-3k if it's as described, and no rust. Depends on how well the repairs were performed. I'd be a lot easier to sell if you finished the supension work, so the future owner can add an engine and go. Perfect candidate for a 3.0 or 3.2 swap.

[blackbird225]

If I could finish the suspension work, I would have already done it, instead of buying a roller. I bought this thing because I wanted a porsche, not a headache. =( But now that I have a migraine, time to sell. Ok then, if I part it, what might I fetch in parts? A guy from the list said I might get $800 for the front fenders alone. Could I get $3K in parts total?

MIchael

[Dan J]

Mike,
I think the car is certainly a worthwhile place to start a project so please don't part it out.I agree with Konish that it's worth what the market will bear. Post some current pictures and that will help us give you an idea. I'd be interested if you weren't 2k miles away.
Dan J

[blackbird225]

Ok, I out a buy-it-now of $2.5K per your suggestions that it is a 7/10.

Just don't tell the wife. heheh =(

[blackbird225]

Here is the pic you requested

[anthony]

I don't understand. Is the $4500 engine transmission in the car right now? If the car was complete I'd think someone would snap it up for $7000.

I also think your strategy of using a buy it now isn't the best way to maximize profit. You could have put a reserve of $2500 and then hopefully got more than that if the bidding got competitive. And if it didn't sell you could have relisted it for free and tried another round of bidding.

[blackbird225]

Originally posted by anthony
I don't understand. Is the $4500 engine transmission in the car right now? If the car was complete I'd think someone would snap it up for $7000.

I also think your strategy of using a buy it now isn't the best way to maximize profit. You could have put a reserve of $2500 and then hopefully got more than that if the bidding got competitive. And if it didn't sell you could have relisted it for free and tried another round of bidding.

Well, someone suggested that I take 70% of my asking price to anyone who would end it early. I put the blurb in there about the engine because I wanted to answer question about it up front. The engine is rebuilt, and the compression and leak downs were great, but it has a (4 huge threads later) tick that was finally narrowed down to worn rocker-to-worn cam-lobe interface. So I decided to install the E cams I speak of.
My plan of attack is:
Drop engine, pull rockers, send rockers to cali for reface.
Sell silver chassis to make room for roller.
Purchase E cams from camgrinder, install new cams/rockers while new roller is in transit. When new roller arrives, insert engine, drive.
Do I have flawed logic here? I am going based on another huge thread about what I should do with my suspension problems. Most pelicans replied with "sell the chassis, keep the engine" since it has good numbers, and just do the rocker/cam work in the meanwhile.

How am I doing?
Michael

[Paul Thomas]

Selling a rust free early 911 because it needs some welding and possible realignment on a frame machine is a huge mistake. This seems to be a damn nice car. Keep it, fix it, drive it. I think you will spend much less time and money getting this one right than pulling the motor and trying to find a roller as nice as this one. No one said you have to do the work yourself, have you consulted a competent body man in your area?

Paul

[onewhippedpuppy]

I agree with Paul, selling this rust free early car, to try and find another, is just stupid, unless you're not telling us something about this one. Really, why are you selling it?

[konish]

Michael,
First, I did not suggest you put a buy it now price for $2500. I was merely suggesting that if you had private offers to end the auction early for 70% of your reserve price, you might be better off taking the money. People get into a viscious cycle of having to relist an ad becasue the car won't make the reserve...which is an indicator of what people are willing to pay for it. Last I checked, relisting an auction that didn't meet the reserve was NOT free, but I could be wrong...and probably am.

I guess I was confused about your Ebay ad. To echo what Paul posted, if you are planning on buying a different chassis and putting your motor/trans back I think it would be FAR less hassle and maybe even less money in the long run to have your current chassis put right.

At any rate, you have two pieces of conflicting advice from the same community which MAY suggest that you are really just splitting the difference on what excatly to do with it. "6" to one, "half dozen" to the other. Personally, I'd look for a local Pelican that can weld / help with this and put some sweat equity into the car rather than trying to juggle money.

R/
Dustin

[blackbird225]

Originally posted by onewhippedpuppy
I agree with Paul, selling this rust free early car, to try and find another, is just stupid, unless you're not telling us something about this one. Really, why are you selling it?

First, I have already paid for the new roller. A straight, rust free 69T in great condition for $4k.

It was the members on the list who suggested buying a roller and getting rid of this one. I took it to a competent body guy. He started throwing big numbers around and then said he would dig around on the internet for a suspension pan. Then he said $1500 to "make it work". The car has cost me misery on many levels. Mostly, its a painful reminder of being raped by the PO. I talked my wife into this hobby at a high cost. My whole family ridiculed me for buying a money pit. I told them I could make it work. Then they were proven right when I discovered that the PO bent me over for $9250 . I just want to bid rid of THIS 911. I want to start the hobby over, with the engine I have spent 100 hours troubleshooting. That's why I'll take $2500. I know I could part it or wait longer, but my very sanity is at stake with it. One of my posts months ago was titled "at wits end". Seriously, the car is sound and rust free, with some nice upgrades. Only one local pelican here has seen it. He said I could do all of the work myself, fixing and redoing spot welds, for $500 in parts. But 60 hours of labor. Then I still don't have the ability to check for true alignment points. So I decided to take a beating and buy one that a relative beginner could do. A 69 T frozen in time that needs a battery, engine and maybe a new seal kit. I CAN do those repairs without too much trouble. People here are now saying that putting my complete engine/tranny is a nightmare? How so? Others have said this was a no-brainer. Its this waffling that inspired me to sell. Get a car that a novice can get on the road. That's what I have done. I know the PO put $12K into the resto, I put even more in. But Now its time for a new owner to finish it.
Here's another pic of the roller:


Michael

[Paul Thomas]

Putting your drive train into that car will not be a nightmare. It should be easy if you have done it before.

It is irrelevant now, but you can buy fantastic replacement sheet metal from Restoration Design and Pelican i thinkand for future reference, run quickly in the opposite direction from any mechanic or body shop man that uses the phrase "make it work".

As far as your family goes, no hobby goes exactly as planned, especially vintage cars of any type. Some of my friends said my car would never see the road again when i took it apart but i just smiled and said "we'll see".

Good luck.

Paul

[Yellowbird RS]

Keep it, fix it and enjoy it.

[blackbird225]

Well, I clearly should have stayed at my $3K reserve, because I sold it in less than 1 day for $2.5K. Well, whatever. Its just money , right . hehh =(

I hope you guys are around tomorrow when I drop the engine and transmission for the first time in my life, making the car ready for the new owner. OMG! I am now a PO! heheh LOL

Frankly, I will be glad to see it go, and start anew.

Michael

[ubiquity0]

Have you had the new roller inspected?

[blackbird225]

Negative. I have extensive pictures, and the guy is Rich Sweet from this list. He has assured me over and over and over that the car has never been in a wreck. I suppose if I find that it has been wrecked, I am a two-time loser. Then I drive my 69/70T at top speed ( 45mph, hehe ) into the nearest brick embankment. Butm as all of you can probably do, I can spot damage problems fairly quick now that I have owned a car where the PO has tried to cover up its past. I can spot the lines, and tell if the jambs are right. Even the way the fender sits is an indication of damage.

Look at this pic and tell me if it looks like it's been in a wreck.

The seams are right, and the doors are in right. The wheels look like they want to follow each other.



What do you think?

[anthony]

You can't tell that kind of stuff from pictures. It needs to be looked at by someone who knows what they are looking at.

[blackbird225]

Bu that's where this list comes into play. Rich is a member of the list who knows what they are looking for. Because he is a fellow pelican, he is as good as me standing there myself. I can't very well fly out there to double check what he says is right. The guy in canada was a scoundrel and a liar. He took tricky pictures that cleverly disguised the damage. I put the pictures of the damage out front for all eyes to see. Thats what the PP list is all about, right? We come here to get honest advice and when we sell each other cars, we are completely honest about the condition. I have to trust something in this hobby, and this board has never let me down yet. Still, my fingers are crossed =)

Michael