starting problem with G50 carerra

ashirji · 10-09-2004, 04:36 AM

I have an 88 carerra with 124K on the clock. I just purchased the car and it passed the PPI with flying colors. I drove it hard for 100 miles and parked it. It refused to start, and this was just after I replaced the battery. I let it cool, and it started right up. I then drove it last night, with the a/c and lights on to a dinner party. It drove there fine, and it drove home fine. Once I got it home, it again would not start. I thought I'd let it cool and it would fire right up, but this morning it still won't crank. It apperas to have good volts, and I can get the starter to "click", but it won't turn the motor over. What is it? I am guessing either the starter or alternator, but would appreciate any input/suggestions you may have.
Thanks!

jgporsche · jgporsche's Garage

I recall something like that once:
The small female connection wire on the starter was loose on a 71 911, bought a starter and found out that it just needed to be pushed further on. Check for a lose wire on you starter. I've heard of an ignition switch do that also. Sounds dumb, do your windows still go up & down with key off?

stlrj · 10-09-2004, 06:34 AM

The fact that you just replaced the old battery has me suspicious of the charging system.

millard · 10-09-2004, 07:20 AM

Hello,

I have a similar problem as ashirji. My car is an 1985 Carrera (daily driver). This has not happen for two years and just occured again yesterday. After driving the car for awhile. Turn it off. Try starting it. Nothing happens. The starter will not even turn over. Let the car sit (cool down). It will then start right up.

The very first time the car would not start was one morning when the engine had not been ran. I Had to turn the key a few times before the car would crank. I took it to the dealer but they could not duplicate the problem. The morning starting problem stopped suddenly. I then only experience the starting problem after the car was ran. Like I said above though this has not happen for at least two years and I drive the car every day.

Before any of this happened I notice that I could put my windows up and down with the key off. Does this mean my ignition switch is at fault?

ashirji · 10-09-2004, 07:39 AM

I just swapped out the battery again and it started right up. the old battery had 11.5 volts and was unable to crank the motor. It was enough to do the windows,though. I think the alternator is the culprit. Does anyone have any experience with any vendors? What is a fair price, as I have seen these from $150 to 300+? Is a rebuilt unit acceptable? Finally is it a DIY job, or is professional installation preferred?
Thanks, Aly

rick-l · 10-09-2004, 07:57 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by ashirji
I just swapped out the battery again and it started right up. the old battery had 11.5 volts and was unable to crank the motor. It was enough to do the windows,though. I think the alternator is the culprit. Does anyone have any experience with any vendors? What is a fair price, as I have seen these from $150 to 300+? Is a rebuilt unit acceptable? Finally is it a DIY job, or is professional installation preferred?
Thanks, Aly

Have it done by the dealer. They only want $900.
I have done this 3 or 4 times . The new voltage regulator with new brushes is only a temporary fix. The one I have now has been in there 3 years was $150 I don't remember where I got it. Some recommend a rebuild but I couldn't find anyone in the yellow pages in St Louis that would do it.
Getting it in and out is time consuming but not too hard. It helps to have a pair of small hands to get some tiny nuts started.
Did you notice the lights getting dimmer as you drove? Did the lights flicker? The seatbelt light come on? The alternator light on the dash?

stlrj · 10-09-2004, 08:39 AM

If the sliprings on the alternator are OK then a new regulator/brush assembley is the solution.

rick-l · 10-09-2004, 09:07 AM

Quote:

Originally posted by stlrj
If the sliprings on the alternator are OK then a new regulator/brush assembley is the solution.

On my 88 with 55,000 miles the 1/16 to 1/8 inch of wear where the brushes ride on the slip ring was not ok. The brushes on the new regulator weren't in exactly the same place. This was alternator removal 1 and 2 for these reasons.

ashirji · 10-09-2004, 09:14 AM

I noticed that the headlights were dimmer, but no warning lights on the dash. Also the radio kept turning off and then back on- I guess because it did not have enough volts to function. Rick, you were kidding about the "only" $900 from the dealer correct? I hope so. I guess I'll try it myself. Anyone have any experience with Vertex? They seem to be the cheapest, but I wanted to make sure the quality was good.

rick-l · 10-09-2004, 09:22 AM

Our host dosen't seem to stock a rebuilt. this might say something. $452 new

http://www.pelicanparts.com/catalog/shopcart/911M/POR_911M_electr_pg7.htm

ashirji · 10-09-2004, 05:39 PM

I think I'll try the ground straps, voltage regulator and then the alternator in that order. Thanks for the help.

ashirji · 10-11-2004, 03:34 AM

Can anyone tell me what a good ind. shop should charge for alternator replacement labor?

Rick Lee · Rick Lee's Garage

Do it yourself. A rebuilt unit is around $200 and the whole job takes about 2 hrs. I did it last week on a 67 911, which is far more of a PITA to work on than a Carrera.