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Tricky D's Avatar
 
Join Date: Dec 2003
Location: Tucson AZ
Posts: 288
A/C compressor - replace or repair?

Hello all,

I have a 93 C2 (RSA). I recently(2 months ago) went through the headache of replacing the evaporator coils and receiver/dryer (15 hour job). The system was evacuated, and held vacuum for 45 min before it was recharged with R12.

Now it blows warm air, and the A/C compressor doesn't cycle. I noticed a small pool of greenish liquid (dye?) below the compressor, which leads me to believe there is a compressor leak. Pressure in the A/C system is practically zero.

The question: should I repair the existing compressor, or update it with a newer style.

I will update to R134a no matter which route is taken.

Old 10-18-2004, 02:01 PM
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Join Date: Jun 2000
Location: N. Phoenix AZ USA
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Overhauled my ND compressor in an hour. Got the parts and tools from ACKits here in Phoenix. Its not difficult if you are even a little mechanical. Held pressure for several years until I sold the engine for a 3.6 upgrade.

You might want to call Patrick Motorsports in Phoenix about upgrades to this. They have a later style upgrade that I may use on my car and since they are 2 hours drive from Tucson, might be worth the time.

JoeA
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2013 Jag XF, 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins (the workhorse), 1992 Jaguar XJ S-3 V-12 VDP (one of only 100 examples made), 1969 Jaguar XJ (been in the family since new), 1985 911 Targa backdated to 1973 RS specs with a 3.6 shoehorned in the back, 1959 Austin Healey Sprite (former SCCA H-Prod), 1995 BMW R1100RSL, 1971 & '72 BMW R75/5 "Toaster," Ural Tourist w/sidecar, 1949 Aeronca Sedan / QB
Old 10-18-2004, 03:57 PM
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Excellent info Joe. Thanks!
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Old 10-18-2004, 04:22 PM
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If you are truely going to 134a when you redo your compressor, you need to make sure you have the right type o-rings and oil in your system. O-rings that are green are compatible both ways, the r12 oil is different than the 134a PAG oils, ester is good for both. I chose the same opportunity as you are going for to buy a Sanden/Seltec compressor out on eBay for $99 brand new. Mounting it was a minor challenge but I now have a new compressor that will take the higher pressures that 134a requires. Additionally, rebuilding the Nippondenso's is somewhat of an art, they leak unless everything is mechanically perfect.

By the way, did your vaccum test give you sucess then you have a sudden failure of the compressor when you charged it up and ran it? Normally you have the leak before fail thing going on.

A new drier is appropriate, and expansion valve if yours has any age. $20 each through a parts warehouse.
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Old 10-19-2004, 07:00 AM
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GO THERE....the service on the phone is less than satisfactory. They may have good products but are driven to be less than than helpfull unless they see you and yer wallet....
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Old 10-19-2004, 07:11 AM
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Don,

Can't explain the sudden failure. The vacuum test was tight - 30" Hg held for over 45 minutes (during lunch break). The system was charged, ran fine and then I drove the car 2400 miles to my new home. It worked fine for weeks, then nothing.

I replaced the receiver/dryer and expansion valve when I replaced the evaporator coils. I do have green o-rings, but probably not the required oil.
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Old 10-19-2004, 07:16 AM
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Mike,

I will pay for the phone call if you would call Jim Patrick!!! I know you had a difficult situation earlier with him but after calling, emailing and going there over 6 times in the last two months, the place has changed.

Was there yesterday and he spent over 2 hours with me going over what we were going to do with my car. He knew that I could not afford to do everything needed but it did not matter.

Please give PMS another try! I am very happy with them and they know I cannot afford thousands to build a tricked out 914 or turbo!

JoeA
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2013 Jag XF, 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins (the workhorse), 1992 Jaguar XJ S-3 V-12 VDP (one of only 100 examples made), 1969 Jaguar XJ (been in the family since new), 1985 911 Targa backdated to 1973 RS specs with a 3.6 shoehorned in the back, 1959 Austin Healey Sprite (former SCCA H-Prod), 1995 BMW R1100RSL, 1971 & '72 BMW R75/5 "Toaster," Ural Tourist w/sidecar, 1949 Aeronca Sedan / QB
Old 10-19-2004, 07:17 AM
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Nah....it's more fun dissing him every chance I get....

At least (this time) I said that his stuff is OK....last time I said I would blow Hitler before I recommended anything from his shop....I must be mellowing or the house remodel is coming to an end....

One of these days I will miss a chance or the meds will kick in earlier in the day and I will fergetaboutit...
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Old 10-19-2004, 07:29 AM
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Mike,

Was about to say that you had toned it down a bit but was not sure if your prescriptions had been refilled lately!

The car will really look nice, and their work is excellent. They grafted a pre-73 nose on the car so that the latch plate for the long hood will work and its really a work of art. He says that several of the old timers have come in the shop and said that they always wanted to backdate a later model car that but no one had taken the plunge.

Just took the new/old front fenders down there yesterday so its going well. Could be driving it by the end of the week but of course I am going to be out of town!

Joe
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2013 Jag XF, 2002 Dodge Ram 2500 Cummins (the workhorse), 1992 Jaguar XJ S-3 V-12 VDP (one of only 100 examples made), 1969 Jaguar XJ (been in the family since new), 1985 911 Targa backdated to 1973 RS specs with a 3.6 shoehorned in the back, 1959 Austin Healey Sprite (former SCCA H-Prod), 1995 BMW R1100RSL, 1971 & '72 BMW R75/5 "Toaster," Ural Tourist w/sidecar, 1949 Aeronca Sedan / QB
Old 10-19-2004, 07:39 AM
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I'm not sure about retrofits for C2s but for my SC I was able to buy a new in box Sanden compressor and adaptor bracket for $150 on ebay. But if ACkits has inexpensive rebuild kits I'd try that route first.

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Old 10-19-2004, 08:08 AM
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