Carerra "Duck" Tail Install

'76 911S 3.0 · '76 911S 3.0's Garage

I did a search, but came up with nothing. I was looking online and found a few fiberglass duck tails that I could buy. I was looking into the one straight from Pelican. Quick Question. It says bolts right on, but I was wondering if reinforcing is needed at the mounting brackets and hood latch areas as the fiberglass isn't as strong as the steel original piece. Is it just me, or does the "bolt right on" portion doesn't seem to be entirely true. Larry, feel free to chime in as I like the way your tail looks and is installed.

Rot 911 · 10-26-2004, 04:57 AM

Well in regards to the hinges and latches, it really is a "bolt on." The fiberglass is quite strong in those areas and the ducktail should have the nuts imbedded in the fiberglass for the hinge bolts. As to the fit of the ducktail, expect to do anywhere from minor sanding to major body work to get the lines to match up with the car.

billyboy · 10-26-2004, 05:24 AM

Not to hijack this thread, but this is related.Is the shape of the engine lid different in the 74 and newer cars compared to the pre 74 cars? Is the shape along the upper edge more arched on later cars?

Joeaksa · 06:11 AM

Billy,

All the different series engines have somewhat different profiles but it should not effect things when using a ducktail. With either of the rear spoilers you actually have a bit more room under the hood.

What is different is the induction system. Some have carbs, some mechanical injection, some have vario-ram and so on. These different fuel delivery systems have different components and bulges in different places.

The main issue is when you are using air conditioning and have a condensor on the tail. Clearance can get a bit tight with some engines.

Joe

billyboy · 10-26-2004, 06:28 AM

Joe, thanks for your reply, I wasn't being very clear. I have a duck tail lid that I have tried to fit on my 68. The lid appears to be very well made,(FG quality), but there is no way that it will fit the shape of my engine bay opening. The shape is fine except for the top edge which is arched up much more than the contour of the car's body below the rear window. I can force it down flush along that edge, but obviously that won't work when it's installed. I was wondering if the later cars or possibly the 930's are diferently shaped in this area compared to the early car. thanks, Bill

Joeaksa · 10-26-2004, 06:44 AM

Bill,

Compare the leading edge of the ducktail lid to that of the orginal decklid. There should not be any difference at all and if there is it should be in the ducktail.

Kinda sounds like you have a ducktail that is out of kilter a bit...

JoeA

jpnovak · 10-26-2004, 06:45 AM

All 911 engine lids have the same external shape and dimension from 65 to 94 with the 89-94 964 cars requiring different hinge spacing.

If you are having problems fitting the decklid due to the arch, the fiberglass needs to be reshaped. This is one of the difficulties of using any composite body part.

Series900 · 10-26-2004, 02:23 PM

The rear window/engine bay ledge are all the same. The difficulty is shrinkage of polyester resin, or any resin in the matrix of glass/resin. Either the mold shrunk or the part shrunk, this shrink, when in a curve tightens the radius of the curve, therfore the part appears high at the center of the window. Molds need to be made slowly, couple layers per day, then reinforced to prevent the curl. The part needs to stay in the mold for a full cure, pulled to soon, although strong , still shrinks and curls also. To fix your part, grind the inside, slice it, reinforce, fill and fair, prime and paint. Better off getting a glass on steel duck or a better tail. I always like better tail

crashmy911 · 10-26-2004, 04:14 PM

I would like to put a duck tail on my car also and I would like to put it on pegs like a race car so I can pull the pins and remove the whole tail form the car where can I buy those pins that they use on race cars?

'76 911S 3.0 · '76 911S 3.0's Garage

Anyone recomend a good company to buy from? Cantact info, price, or website address would be nice. thanks

geof33 · 10-26-2004, 08:47 PM

Usually, tails are made with a significant level of extra resin and FG in this area, just for these types of situations. You gotta sand... and sand some more. Use a respirator, goggles and a hat, as the resin is NASTY for your lungs. 60 grit takes it off quick. To get a perfect contour put two or three layers of tape on the leading edge of the body at the high spot and sand it flush. It's ALOT easier to take it DOWN to level that to bring it up.

Once you take the resin down, you will need to fill the pin holes with filler. Then you need to sand again, then fill more pinholes. Some times with FG you get lucky and a piece truly is slap and go... but most, if not all need to be "massaged" no matter who built the part.

Also, you will need to play with shims at the hinges to get the corners balanced etc. If you look at your factory lid, it most likely has/had shims too.