1976 911s

[Cjw924]

Looking at 76 911s w/ 50000 mi orignial, Cis fuel injection, factory exhaust, all original 2.7 no thread insert mods on case stud. alloy wheels pwr windows locks never wrecked but needs paint metallic blue no rust dents or dings runs and drives good and overall condition is good how much is it worth and what should i ask if i were to sell it?

[Grady Clay]

Cjw,

The critical thing in your list is “Factory exhaust.” Does that mean thermal reactors? If not, when (miles) were they changed and to what parts?

Is the fan the original 5-blade?

Does it have a front oil cooler?

Any sign of rust? Inspect carefully.

If you are so lucky to find an original paint, no rust, 50K ’76S that had the exhaust back-dated to ’74 and the cooling fan up-dated to the 11-blade 1.82:1 Turbo fan when new – WOW. There may be some still out there – we built them when new 28 years ago.

Best,
Grady

[Cjw924]

I am looking at buying it and i asked him if it was the thermo reactor exhaust he just said it is all original factory no mods at all . I am not sure if the thermoreactors are what came on the 76 911s. He was pretty clear that the car had no rust also. but i do intend on looking it over really carefully

[Howard M]

In 76, thermoreactors were on California cars, only. 49-state 911's had air pumps, only (easily removed). Yes, mine is an otherwise-stock 100K mile 2.7, backdated SSI/Dansk exhaust, 11 blade fan, front cooler. Great cars once somone else has done the upgrades, including valve guides (have any NOT been done yet?).

Howard

[Cjw924]

So how much do you think this original 911s would be worth? It is a coupe not targa.

[Grady Clay]

Cjw,

Find some knowledgeable mechanics, PCA, and Pelicans to do a through PPI and help you analyze what you are looking at.

If I were buying that car; I would factor in installing the engine fan, installing a used SC front cooler with finned radiator, ’74 exhaust, and most important – a partial engine overhaul. That would include a proper valve job, inspect the P&Cs with at least new rings, and rod bearings through the case. If everything looked OK to this point and the crank spins free, I wouldn’t split the case. With the rods out, I would install new cylinder studs with inserts, taking great care to not get any metal in the crankcase.

With fresh paint, this as new as you can get with a 50K ‘76S.

The most important thing NOW is a thorough PPI.

Best,
Grady

[Cjw924]

Lol Grady,
My friend who is an expert with the 2.7L said the same thing. I plan to do comp test and leak down but the guy is asking 5500 for it and with out the inserts put in i know that will run me up $500 i was just wondering if it is worth $5500 so if I do put some time and parts into it i could sell it maybe. I will probably end up keeping it, suffering from the "porsche bug".

[RoninLB]

the 2.7 '76 is not desirable at the market so you should pay maybe $8k max.. or you could get a more desirable SC for the same bucks.. My '77 looks so undesirable that I hope they don't even want to steal it for parts.

I would think a Wisconson 911 didn't see much heat damage, so that's good. The valve guides will probably be the weak link as Howard posted. The guides were up-graded in late '77. Your guides were expected to last 40-50k, I think. I'd confirm a no rust 911 by checking the torsion bar tube on top +. The CIS fuel injection is a very reliable.

fwiw.. part of the fun when owning these cars is personalizing them.

[Cjw924]

Ill probably end up doing an overhaul one the engine purely for the fact i need to machine the inserts for the case studs