Yup, there's lead in the radius and at the top near the quarter window. Factory lead. Sure messes with a MIG welder. This is when know how to braze comes in useful. What you can't weld, you can braze. Many do both; weld first and braze up pin holes, etc.

But once you braze or lead, forget MIG in that area unless you can grind it ALL off.

cheap as SC's are that's looking like a parts car to me.

If you read the cost of the others experience with similar repairs.
Good luck. Hopefully it's not the typical 10 times more than you can see.... I didnt realize it was your car already.. since you have six I thought you were buying another.

Wow if your given the car for STOOPID cheap then MAYBE... But if that is what you can see, I'd hate to think what you can't...

WTF...http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/...oilet_claw.gif
I would take you seriously if you actually saw the car, as oppose to a 4 inch rust spot...
To the rest thanks for the response/advice.
Had a bodyman look at it yesterday. The rest of the car is solid, his only guess is that the door seal wore out causing the water to drip down and settle on the rocker, eventually causing the rust :(.

Eli,

I think people are mis-interpreting your original post, IIRC this is a car you already own, right? The Euro sunroof delete SC, right?

Eli, I had a simular area on my car and luckily it was limited to the bottom and arround the rear lid handle.
I welded in small pieces of metal and it turned out good.
It took me a long time because I just got the Mig welder.

I saw one of the linked posts that had pictures of a project where the guy replaced the whole jamb. I didn't do it this way because it looked like too much work. Actually after screwing arround with mine, that didn't look too bad. Drill out some rivits. Best thing is that you will expose everything behind it and can fix anything else that's wrong.

The sill is a different issue because I only had a tiny patch there.
I also don't have the expectation that it's going to last forever.
Next time I'll buy the whole jamb.
Good luck!

You're not far If you want to come by and take a look.
My guess is that either way it's about 8-10 hours at most for an experienced body man plus what ever to prep and paint.
I found a reasonably priced shop that painted my car after I completely stripped it and fixed the rust spots.
My guess is that I saved 3-4K on my repairs and all over paint job Maybe more if you get a price from one of the "Porsche" body shops.

wet mud gets flung into the area by the tire and never gets cleaned out. i doubt the door seal had anything to do with it.

Have to agree with John.
Thre was also a link about wheel well liners.
Does anyone have experience with these?

Wet mud is probably the # cause of rust dammage:

It get's trapped:
Above headlight buckets
On top of SC bumper shock brackets
Behind door jambs (what the current topic is about)
Above oil lines in right front fender
Above washer filler hose in left front fender.
Probably a lot more spots but these are my expereiece.
Fender liners would seam to help. (Can't do it near the oil cooler?)
John have you ever seen them?

I do find it odd that you wont take an opinion seriously with only the info and pics you provided yet you wanted opinions..
I edited the prior post..didnt realize it was a current car of yours..I'm not the only one in the 2 pages of post that would head for the hills if it was a purchase. Good luck hope it's not that bad...

http://www.pelicanparts.com/support/...s/beerchug.gif

No problem, sorry for the brisk response. Drove to NYC yesterday in the afternoon for my brother's birthday, drove back after the festivities ended this morning. Made it back by 7 am, with just enough time to shower and go to work. Needless to say I was a bit grouchy in the morning. :)

My head hurts thinking about it!