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Hmm
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911 Last edited by Eli K; 02-03-2005 at 10:25 PM.. |
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I'll WAG it at $1,500+ to have a good shop repair/replace it properly, and paint to match. I have not had to do this repair, and am merely guessing based on my body shop experiences with my Porsche.
You will get a much better idea by taking it to a couple of local shops that specialize on these cars, and get estimates from them. Good luck,
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Jason Keep Right Except to Pass! 2000 Audi S4 Quattro Non-Sunroof 1989 BMW M3 (sold 12/06) 1977 911S Wide Body 3.6 Varioram (sold 11/05) |
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Hopefully thats the only rust on the car but not likely. Check the rear seats and rear fender wells, battery tray, trunk, floor, the usuals. I have no idea how much that would cost to fix. KevinP73 is highly regarded here in the west coast in socal, try shootin him a pm, he is a great guy and will be doing ALL my bodywork in the future.
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74 911s neverending story. two feet and a jetta for now. |
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This is a typical place for a 911 to rust. You can buy complete new panels from Porsche and they aren't that expensive. At least they weren't 4 years ago. Don't know if the price has gone up since.
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That lower corner is a bit of a nightmare....
If there is rust coming thro chances are the inner sills are pretty much gone as well which doees not help the rigiidity of the car. Get that repaired properly...all the parts are avaliable and whilst you could do it yourself I think it demands a bit of skill. BTW mine is in the shop having exactly that done as we speak....
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I've been getting quotes for mine and it seems to be at least £1000 ($1800) a side.
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this could help I did mine and the cost was around $200
to $250 but you need a Mig welder and spray gun YIKES - 911 Restoration Pics, WARNING!
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Mike Minister of YEP 1986 targa 3.2 " RED" 1970 Little T (Wife’s car) Gruppe B # 917 |
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Didn't see the last pic, could be a pain but not too bad
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Mike Minister of YEP 1986 targa 3.2 " RED" 1970 Little T (Wife’s car) Gruppe B # 917 |
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Under that thin layer of paint was a hole all the way thro.....
The ball park is £1k per side.....painted etc.. |
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Here's an idea of whats involved:-
Front wing (fender) changing Its time consuming but pretty easy - I cannot see how anyone can charge £1000 per side and keep a straight face. From start to finish, it took approx 10-15 hours. Parts were approx £50 |
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Back in the saddle again
Join Date: Oct 2001
Location: Central TX west of Houston
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Any work involving rust is bad. It's exactly like cancer. I'd run away unless the car is ridiculously cheap (really, really cheap) or you are into S&M
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Steve '08 Boxster RS60 Spyder #0099/1960 - never named a car before, but this is Charlotte. '88 targa SOLD 2004 - gone but not forgotten
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THanks guys! I'll get a couple of estimates from some local shops, and go from there. Would rather let a pro handle it...
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911 |
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not only rotten but it looks to be brown in colour - do yourself a favour and keep looking for another car
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nice doggie
Join Date: Oct 2002
Location: Denver, CO
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That is bad. It is in an important structural area and if you don't get all the rust, it will eventually come back. I'd pass on this one.
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Jerry 78 SC hotrod 02 Mini Cooper S |
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damn, Eli, is that the 964???
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dave 1973,5 |
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Trust me on this: If the rust is moving upward, it is also following gravity downward.
I'm doing this exact repair right now. I haven't posted pics in a couple of weeks due to slow progress. Part of that is fnding more as I dig deeper. Let that be a warning as to what to expect beyond the surface. If you look closely right where the Sawzall is at the bottom of the fender, it's just GONE! Not there. Dissappeared. This was patched once before, which is worse than going after the original damage if it isn't done properly (and this wasn't by any stretch of imagination). The parts you can buy reproduced don't include the outer part of the rear fender at the radius. (The part that is missing) You have to buy a whole rear fender or make your own. I'll show a pic of that later in this thread or a new one. |
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This is the area I am tackling next on my car. Left side, right seams fine. It goes from the bend at the bottom up to rear quarter window. Not all but spots, if it wasn't solid I cut it out. Anything my hammer could poke through with some force got cut out. The whole problem stemmed from a rot hole at the bottom front facing side of the rear wheel well. I gave that a temp fix again taking out anything that my hammer could go through and just threw some bondo over it to keep more water from splashing up, not that the car ever sees rain but just in case. I will address either this winter or next spring. I have a similar hole in my right front quarter where the quarter meets the door at the bottom. Well, it wasn't there until I started tapping around with my hammer. So much work, so little time.
The good thing about these holes is that if the weld is not visually perfect, no one sees it anyways with the door shut. I would rather have structurally sound than pretty anyways. Though both would be nice. I will POR 15 anything solid that, weld in the new pieces and just hope for the best. Wait, this wasn't about me. Not sure if you bought it but if you didn't, I wouldn't unless the price reflected it. It can be fixed but at a cost. I know you can get the piece that has the pull for the rear trunk new for like $50 bucks. I think if you have the money for the parts which isn't much for Porsche repairs, a good body /welder guy should be able to take care of relatively easy. Then again I am a hack and think most things look easy. Probably why I get in so much trouble. Don't think the paint would be to bad either where your dealing with a area that isn't typically seen. If you buy and do not want to do yourself, I would say have a weld guy do the welding and a body shop take it from there. I have found big differences in prices. If that is all a guy does day in and day out, it is a much easy job than for a guy that does it on occasion. Just my opinion. Good luck, David |
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Eli,
What year is that 911 ? |
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Quote:
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Just finished (writing the check) for the same repair on my car. $2800 out the door from a good bodyman with paint. My car needed a new latch post and outer rocker.
If its like mine was, its rusting from the inside. There is a nice little pocket between the outer rocker and the joint where the quarter and latch post tie together that is probably packed full of 20-30 years of crud. Here's an old post about mine Rust repair: door jam/rocker/quarter If you cut this section away from the car you need to be real careful. there was a bunch of lead filler on my car. If you dont do this yourself, warn your body man about the lead. Last edited by Shuie; 11-17-2004 at 08:07 PM.. |
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