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Join Date: Nov 2004
Location: Hermitage, TN
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Question 1980SC hard start

I purchased a 1980 SC in 9/04 and it was running very well until this last week. When I've started it the last couple of days it turns over for about 15 seconds before it will start. It never actually sounds like it fires up, it will just stay running after it has turned over that long. I have checked all of the vacuum lines and connections, checked the fuel pump fuse, the coil is a bosch as well as the ingnition unit. It has new plugs, cap and rotor with less than 500 miles on them. The plug wires are in good condition. I had to put a new CAT and O2 sensor on it to pass AZ smog (it had a test pipe). The air fuel mixture was set at Sun Valley imports in Tempe using their machine. Could this be the oxygenated fuel we use here in the winter time, or an ingnition problem? I have also checked the pop off valve, which is tight and the air box, no cracks. Previously the car would fire right up. Any help would be appreciated.

Old 11-15-2004, 04:00 PM
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Is your CSV working? Sounds like it isn't coming on with the ignition key anymore...

R/
Dustin
Old 11-15-2004, 04:12 PM
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I'm not sure how to check to see if it's working, I'm new to P-cars. Where exactly is it located?
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Chris
'80 SC
Old 11-15-2004, 04:25 PM
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The valve itself looks like an injector on the back of the airbox. The thermotime switch that controls it is mounted on the left hand timing chain cover. Like the name suggests, when its cold out, it will ground the circuit causing the injector to fire...but the circuit will only energize when the ignition key is in the start postion. I really recommend ordering the Bentley manual for the SC...it will come in handy.

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Dustin
Old 11-15-2004, 04:31 PM
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I've got the Bently manual. Thanks for your help, I'll let you know what I find
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Chris
'80 SC
Old 11-15-2004, 04:35 PM
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Join Date: Oct 2001
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Tell us about the car, welcome to the board!
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Old 11-15-2004, 07:06 PM
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Chris,

My vote is the starter. If it's never been changed, worth a look.

Happy hunting....
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Old 11-15-2004, 07:31 PM
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Disconnect the O2 sensor and see what it does. Is it possible you bumped something loose when you were working in the engine bay?
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'80 SC
Old 11-15-2004, 08:06 PM
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I read on another thread to check the wiring to the starter, that's my next step. As far as the car, it's a 1980 SC coupe with 130,000 miles. It's gaurds red, originally blue, but someone did a paint job on it with the motor out and repainted the trunk. Overall, the car is in good condition, with some normal wear and tear. It has an 83 tail on it. I'll post pics soon.
Old 11-15-2004, 08:06 PM
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I don't think anything was bumped in the engine bay as I had replace the O2 sensor when I still had the test pipe on. I just removed and replaced the O2 sensor when I added the CAT. From the readings it seems to working properly. This has only been happening the last couple of days. It would normally fire right up after only a couple turns of the starter.
Old 11-15-2004, 08:18 PM
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Here is the update; I checked all wires leading to the starter all were tight. I checked power to the thermotime switch which was good. I thought it was going back into the shop. When I bought the car it had the wrong battery in it and I had been meaning to replace it ( the one in the car was an Interstate which was much too tall). Yesterday I replaced the battery with the correct size and now the car fires right up? I don't know what the CCA for the other battery was, but I'm guessing it was under rated for the car. The new battery came from Batteries Plus $72. Thanks to the board for all your suggestions.
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Chris
'80 SC
Old 11-17-2004, 03:46 PM
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Perhaps battery connections were the culprit? Inscrutable, these electrical demons.
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'80 SC
Old 11-17-2004, 05:06 PM
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It could be your fuel accumulator as well. You might be getting a partial vapor lock and the time to start is just the time it takes to build up sufficient pressure and volume to kick it over. Just a guess.
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Old 11-17-2004, 06:48 PM
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Chris.

Find and read your PM's.

Michael.
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Old 11-17-2004, 08:25 PM
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Chris, A fellow Pelicanite and I were testing my fuel delivery system. This required a wire bypass of the fuel relay, and in the process we fried it. The motor sounded like it wanted to start, but not really. As soon as I released the key, it quit running. If this is what's happening, pull out the red relay, and put in one of the others and see if this solves it. If I misunderstood your post, disregard. Good luck.

PS. See, Cliff,,,,I didn't even mention you by name!!!
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Old 11-18-2004, 11:55 AM
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If, when cold starting, your revs do not rise higher than idle speed and then slowly return to normal as the car warms up, I would check the WUR and AAR.
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Paul
Yellow 77 Sunroof Coupe/cork interior; 3.2L SS '80 engine/10.3:1/No O2; Carrera Tensioners; 11 Blade Fan; Turbo tie rods; Bilstein B6; 28 tube Cooler; SSI, Dansk; MSD/Blaster; 16x7" Fuchs/205/50 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s; PCA/UCR, MID9
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Old 11-18-2004, 02:11 PM
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Thanks Paul. When it is warming up it does idle at about 1200 RPM and then decends to 950 RPM, but it doesn't hold the 1200 RPM steady. It seems to pulse every 10 seconds or so.
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Chris
'80 SC
Old 11-18-2004, 02:51 PM
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By pulsing, do you mean the revs want to fluctuate or rise and fall almost in rhythm? If that is what is happening, then that is usually a sign of a too rich mixture. If you lean it in 1/32 or 1/16 turn increments it should steady.
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Paul
Yellow 77 Sunroof Coupe/cork interior; 3.2L SS '80 engine/10.3:1/No O2; Carrera Tensioners; 11 Blade Fan; Turbo tie rods; Bilstein B6; 28 tube Cooler; SSI, Dansk; MSD/Blaster; 16x7" Fuchs/205/50 Firestone Firehawk Indy 500s; PCA/UCR, MID9
Never leave well enough alone
Old 11-18-2004, 03:05 PM
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That exaclty what it's doing. I just had the mixture set in October. Should I be running it leaner with the weather being colder?
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Chris
'80 SC
Old 11-18-2004, 03:58 PM
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colder air can generally handle a richer mixer as cold air is denser comapred to hot, humid air. However, too rich is too rich no matter what the environmental conditions are...

R/
Dustin

Old 11-18-2004, 04:40 PM
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