Meguiar's three step?

aways · 12-11-2004, 07:25 AM

I'm going to be adding Carrera script decals to my car, and since I'll have to remove the wax and clean the area where the decals go anyway, this might be a good time to give the whole car a good cleaning and polishing before putting on the decals. Currently, the paint on my car is in pretty good shape, with some mild oxidation that one would expect for a 17 year old car. I'm thinking of the Meguiar's three-step process: Deep crystal paint cleaner, followed by deep crystal polish, followed by a carnuba wax. I'm thinking the decal goes on after the polish step, just before the wax. Any comments/suggestions on this approach? Oh, and by the way, I plan to do this by hand...

fireant911 · 12-11-2004, 07:44 AM

I performed the Meguiar's three step system on my car about three weeks ago. The only difference was that I initially used the Meguiar's Quik Clay detailing system (which I especially choose due to this method being completely non-abrasive) - which, I guess, made mine a four step system. The whole process required about six hours and the car looked amazing. I did mine completely by hand also with the exception of buffing off the final wax.

Actually, the results turned out so well that I did my Honda the following weekend and this car turned out amazingly well - my neighbors commented on the 'new car ' look that I acheived. I did not use the Quik Clay on this car but used a Meguiar's polymer wax and allowed a twelve hour cure time and finished it off with the carnuba wax. This car did deserve the extra treatment since it lost it's garage space and became and 'outside car' once the Porsche came along...

I also did the three step system on my co-worker's Mercedes Benz last week per his request (he's 67 and a really nice guy). All-in-all it is a great deal of work but the results are worth the effort.

toolman · toolman's Garage

I used to work for Meguiars, put the decals on after the cleaning process. The "polish" step is basically some oily stuff to make your car shine better, and will be detrimental to your decals sticking.

efhughes3 · efhughes3's Garage

I'll attest to the M 3 Step system, it worked well on mine. It makes sense to put the decals on after the cleaning step.

anthony · 12-11-2004, 10:23 AM

I recently bought a Porter Cable Orbital polisher and Menzerna polishes from Proper Auto Care: http://www.properautocare.com/ The results were phenomenal.

http://www.properautocare.com/menklasconki.html

I've been eye-balling the Porter Cable polisher for a couple years now and I regret not buying it earlier. It turns your six hour three step job into a two hour job.

My Jetta had some heavily oxidized areas and I first hit them with 3M Fine Cut compound, and then the whole car with Menzerna Intensive Polish, Menzerna Final Polish, Klasse All-In-One, and then Klasse High Gloss Sealeant. I was able to do the whole car in 3 hours.

Regardless of which products you like, get the Porter Cable. It saves so much time. With the right polishes it can also do things that you can't do by hand. I was able to make all the oxidation, swirl marks, and small scratches completely dissapear. My Jetta looks like new now.

I really like the Menzerna polishes and the Klasse sealeant. I can do the whole car by hand in 10 minutes with Klasse. It goes on so easy and requires very little effort to buff off.

The other secret is buying microfiber towels and applicators. They allow you to use much less product with whatever you are doing and they also reduce greatly the effort required to buff out any wax or polish.

kilodawg · kilodawg's Garage

Okay I'm in the midst of a 3 week war in waxing my 84 Carrera and the wife's 96 993. After considerable trial and effort. This is what I've found. You can take it or leave it. I start with the first step of the M 3 step process for areas that need extra help. Then 3M Hand Glaze for the glass like finish. Great stuff. Then the Zaino system starting with 3 coats of Z5 and finishing with two coats of Z2 for the ultimate wet look. The Zaino system on a properly prepared surface just blows Carnuba wax away IMHO.

Ralph

aways · 12-11-2004, 04:42 PM

Thanks much for the information. I'm especially glad to know that the decal should go on before the polishing step...! I may ask Mr Claus for a Porter Cable polisher as a lot of people seem to swear by it...

CarreraS2 · 12-11-2004, 05:17 PM

Yeah, the 3 stage works well - although like the others, I'd recommend a Porter Cable. They usually have have them reasonably priced at Lowes if you have one around you.

Nothing wrong with doing it my hand - but doing 3 separate stages can get tiresome! The PC absolutely won't damage your car, and it's easier to get a more even, better job with the PC than by hand.

K.B. · 06:13 PM

I did my car (71T) with the 3 step process by hand. I thought it looked pretty good. Then I went for the 10 step process - big difference. I used:
Menzerna Intensive Polish
Isopropyl Alcohol
Menzerna Final Polish
Klasse All In One
Eagle One Detail Spray
Klasse Sealant Glaze
4 Star UPP
Porter Cable 7336
Murphy's Oil Soap
Lake Country Yellow, White, Black pads.

1. Apply 2, 4 inch lines of Menzerna Intensive to Lake Country yellow pad (spray pad with water) using Porter Cable DA, set at 4.5 - smear on body panel - buff vertical, horizontal, 45 left, 45 right, one panel at a time. Wipe off entire car with isopropyl alcohol/paper towel.
(clean each pad immediately when finished with Murphy's Oil Soap and warm water - spin dry. - MOS works way better than Dawn for me - less suds - comes in spray bottle - very handy!)
2. Apply 2, 4 inch lines of Menzerna Final on yellow pad/ spray with water, smear on body panel - buff vertical, horizontal, 45 left, 45 right, with the PC, one panel at a time. Wipe off entire car with damp cotton towel/dry with microfibre or cotton.
3. Apply Klasse AIO to orange pad with Eagle One Detail Spray on pad, buff vertical, horizontal, 45 left, 45 right, with the PC, one panel at a time, wipe off immediately with microfibre.
4,5. Apply Klasse SG to white pad and wipe off imediately with microfibre - let dry 24 hrs - Repeat.
6-8. Apply quarter size drip of 4 Star UPP to white pad, smear on body panel- just go horizontal and vertical with the PC set at 2 - wipe off in 15-60 min with micro fibre cloth under pad with PC - wait 24, and repeat twice.
9. Apply P21S with black pad, buff with microfibre under pad.
10. Beer

I did step 10 a couple of times. Looked even better.
Ken

randywebb · 12-11-2004, 06:30 PM

PC makes an orbital sander for about $60 that works aswell as the big $200 item - it is a bit more awkward to use, and will not last as long if you detail 300 cars a week....

Start with Meguair's Body Scrub and the finish will greatly improve, unless your paint is already in new condition.

aways · 12-11-2004, 06:34 PM

Thanks Ken,
That sounds pretty hard-core. I'd probably have to start with step 10,
then go through steps 1-9 before getting back to 10....
I'll bet your car looks great after all that.

CarreraS2 · 12-11-2004, 06:37 PM

One thing - I've found that the Meguire's polish isn't a fine enough polish for me. It seems to leave some swirl marks. A finer polish, or a glaze like Meguires 7, works better for me.

randywebb · 12-11-2004, 07:59 PM

"Meguire's polish isn't fine enough"

Which one? They have dozens. Also they use polish to refer to a non-abrasive chemical treatment. So not sure what you mean.

CarreraS2 · 12-11-2004, 08:09 PM

I'm referring to the polish that the original poster said in his first post, above, that he was going to use - the "consumer" version "Deep Crystal System Polish" (which is "Step 2" of that system.

I think there is only one version of that polish. It's the one you generally see in all the hardware stores, etc.

randywebb · 12-11-2004, 08:51 PM

Ah, OK. The red bottles like that are the cheapest line they make (Tho still good). That polish has no abrasives and works well on darker cars if used after Body Scrub, (clay), cleaner, and right before you wax. I've never used it to mechanically (abrasively) polish a finish. Doubt it would work for that.

anthony · 12-11-2004, 09:05 PM

Damn KB, that sounds like a lot of work. Why the Klasse and the 4Star? That seems redundant.

Do you have any tricks for the Klasse Sealant Glaze? I found that it was difficult to get off.

I also bought some Sonus High Gloss Acrylic Spritz to touch up the finish after washing and that is what finally helped me get off the Sealean Glaze residue. I love the stuff though. It goes on and comes off really easily and you only need a tiny bit.

K.B. · 12-12-2004, 03:25 AM

The trick with Klasse SG is to take it off right away. Do one panel at a time and remove it. The UPP goes on/comes off even faster than Klasse SG. The Klasse AIO is an awesome product. All the work is worth it when it lasts several months. Then just do step 9 and 10 again.

Anybody want my Meg 3 step red bottles for half price $9 - used once? PM me.

Zaino system has a lot of followers, but I have never used it check out some forums at detailcity or autopia
KB

4to8m8 · 4to8m8's Garage

Holy crap Battman! In between the endless lists my wife comes up with of stuff for me to do I'm very lucky to get 30min to wash wax my p-car and even then I 'm lookin over my shoulder. You guys blow me away with your 10 step process's and what not. That sounds like heaven to me. Maybe I'll ask for 6hrs of uninterupted time for my b-day.

K.B. · 12-12-2004, 05:58 AM

4to8m8:
You can sperad the 10 step process over several days, (in between honeydews). Do the wifes car first. Good practice with the new Porter Cable.

BTW If anybody is still using a "leather Chamois" to dry your car, you are out of touch. Technology has passed you by! (as I type this on a windows 98 computer LOL) Get a waffle weave microfiber towel. Make sure it is waffle weave (Ebay is a source) If you get a small one you can wring it out but if you get a bath towel size you can rapidly dry the whole vehicle with one towel. Save yourself some more time for those honeydews.

randywebb · 12-12-2004, 11:12 AM

"10 step process's ... sounds like heaven to me."

- Maybe not. Note that is no study telling you that these guys are gaining anything from doing this. Do a side by side comparison on the same body panels of the same car and see if people who do not know which is which can tell the difference (single blind experiment). Do the panels facing up (roof & hood) and the side panels. Try it on different colors in different parts of the country (humidity vs. UV radiation).

I found no differences between Meguairs Gold Class and p21S and Malms in a test in Oregon on a red car. I have not seen anyone (other than Consumer's Union) do a test. Loose opinion doesn't really cut it.