First Mods

[cactusdtd]

The targa is a pure stock '87 ...and i mean PURE (still at US height). Current project is to install new Bilsteins and lower the car to Euro standard. Would appreciate Pelican input on where I might spend the $2k balance (after bilsteins) to improve handling and speed. Welcoming all suggestions - calling on your collective wisdom.

[North Coast Cab]

Spend $500 on all the rubber suspension bushings, turbo tie rods and a good CB and alignment. The while you're in there stuff would include new torsion bars ($450) at the same time. Save the balance for the 4,000 other things you'll think of in the first 90 days.

John

[Shuie]

Stop while you are ahead Trust me, you are only going to find more things that you will feel compelled to change. Before you know it, you'll be into the brakes and the NOVA gang will be on their way to Greenville for an engine drop party.

how many miles on the car? Are you going to stick with the stock valving on the struts? If not, budget for new torsion bars so you can match everything up nicely. Its a lot of work, but I would replace every rubber bushing in the front of the car along with the balljoints. turbo tie rods are a nice upgrade while you are in there.

[cactusdtd]

In for a dime, in for a dollar!!! (and then some). 61,150 original documented miles. she's almost a virgin. no oil loss or comsumption in my first 1000mi. no smoke. that is why i thought i would focus on handling first.

[Rot 911]

I would do everything John mentioned, but perhaps skip the torsion bars until your skills improve. Replace the brake pads and flush the brake fluid. I would then spend some money on going to some driver's education courses.

[Jcon]

This an evil place turn around and run. 4 Years ago I was you. 1981 SC with 52,000 miles no issues, great car. Bought the car in June and I found Pelican in December.

Since then

7&9" wheels
Toyo Tires
Turbo Tie rods
Rotors
Brake Lines
Rebuilt the 915 ( Using my wallet)
5 point harnesses
BK Truss
CV's
2 new oil coolers
3.6 liter engine

on and on.

I'm far from being the worst.

If you like your car then avoid the post about the 3.2 - 3.5 conversion.


Since you've been warned Enjoy!

The best thing you can do right now is begin to refresh anything that wears with age (i.e. Rubber) Lowering will make a real difference. How old are the tires. If they are more than 5 years they are probably starting to get a little greasy. A new set does wonders. Shocks and bushings. Read the archives there's a ton of info here.

Enjoy

[cactusdtd]

Great advice all...as for what I want the car to do:

Street only - don't plan on tracking this car ( have a claim on my brother's SC for that late in '05 when he will sell to me in order to buy a new house)

would like to transform the targa from a pedestrian stock porsche (if there is such a thing) to a better handling, quicker, tighter ride. Cosmetics will come later. Semi-daily driver with guts.

[charlesbahn]

Save up for the Turbo you'll be wanting to add.

[MichiganMat]

- replace the bushings (yes, all of them)
- stainless brake lines
- 7&9x16 wheels
- slam it
- Momo Mod7/Prototipo wheel

then, when you've got the basics taken care of, shoot a PM over to Juan Ruiz and put that monster on some boost.

Oh, and buy yourself some good skiis because you're already slipping down the hill!

[Wil Ferch]

Caution:

By 87...the US cars were at Euro ride height ( or very close)...this is not the same thing as the mid to late 70's cars which were considerably higher. Without getting on your case...do some homework first and you'll find ( maybe) you don't have a problem that needs "fixing"...

Another caution...
There is a similar "common thought" that braided stainless brake lines are the way to go. Well....maybe.
The argument is that these will promote a firmer "feel". Not true. If you look at the hydraulic pressure rating of the stock rubber hose, and also the wall thickness compared to the hole diameter within...I *challenge* anyone to a blind side-by-side test that says the rubber "expands" or otherwise feels mushy. PLUS...the stainless are meant for race cars that get constant attention and regular tear-downs and inspections. Are you prepared to do that? If so...go for it. If not....then you may end up even worse than before because you can't see internal degradation through the stainless braiding. Tend to "kink" too if not properly routed or of non-optimal length. The factory rubber usually lasts 10 years..and still will look good at that age but will likely swell from the inside...causing incomplete brake-release. Great ! .....the symptoms then are bad brakes and we immediately jump to the conclusion that we need Big Reds ( when a simple hose change is all you might need, or at least should be part of the maintenanve program after 10 years anyway).

My point...unless you have very specific goals in mind, most of us can't "use up" the capability that is built into our cars ( stock) and we may even make things worse with il-advised parts swaps.

Just understand where you're going and be careful.....

Wil

[randywebb]

One tidbit - a rubber brake hose will feel mushy when it is about to fail!

Other than that, print out Wil's post and stamp it on your forehead everytime you start planning an "upgrade" on your street, DE, or weekend race car.....

[dd74]

Originally posted by Wil Ferch
Caution:

...unless you have very specific goals in mind, most of us can't "use up" the capability that is built into our cars ( stock) and we may even make things worse with il-advised parts swaps.

Just understand where you're going and be careful.....

Wil

I couldn't have said this better, so I edited it a little. Give extremely and serious thought to anything you do to your car, because 9 times out of 10 the modifications you imagine or are advised to take may not be needed. From the factory, these cars are set up almost perfectly. A competent driver in a stock 911 can be extremely potent.

If you are insistent on modifying your car, do very minimal stuff. Look at the recommended upgrades on the Pelican Parts section and consciously weigh out if you need these mods. But engine swaps, hard bushings, big torsions and all, will lead you down a slope that approaches addiction.

In short, Porsches are very expensive. That must be because in most cases, they aren't meant to be modified.

[moazam]

I'm surprised no one has mentioned this yet, but you could start by replacing the stock steering wheel with the 930S steering wheel. Looks better, feels better.

[HarryD]

As others have already noted, the car, as delivered, will exceed the capabiites of 90+% of it's owners. Personally, unless you have failing components that need replacement, spend your money on DE days and Autocross.

[Wil Ferch]

Thanks for the supportive replies...but just so the "other side" of this view gets equal billing, let me also say:

- some guys ( like most here) enjoy rather radical modifications. This is entirely OK but you are best served to do these after you've had a lot of seat time, or experience, or had plenty of fireside chats on the subject.

IMHO...mods that "improve" always have some sort of negative aspect that must be balanced against the "obvious positive". If you "know" all these pro/cons...then you're better prepared to make the mods without disappointments. An "informed consumer" ...as it were.

Data point: I find it intriguing that RUF's original Yellowbird, the insanely fast ( 211-214 MPH) mid 80's Turbo Carrera... uses 19 mm front torsion bars and 24-25 rears. Basically stock. Obviously RUF believes in a compliant suspension for a high-performance street car. Others on this board may go 23/31 with good results...but their "target" is a dual purpose car focused more on track work with accepted compromises for the street ( or they live on the West coast without frost-heaved streets).

....Just a thought .....

Wil