Digest of best performance mods for under 50$
 

I would like to hear (read) what the great minds in this forum have thought of as cheap and effective performance mods for the wallet challenged among us.
So here are the rules:
Tell us your best *performance* modification that costs less than 50$ when it's done.
No cup holders, cool collars and flame decals.
Only genuine mods that do indeed enhance the capacity of the car to cover ground faster than the rest.

I'll start with the removal of the tar paper inside the doors and under the carpet. Cost is nil, gain is about 20lbs.

I'll also add the drilling of the hood hinges. Cost is a few bruised knuckles, a drill and a bit (that you hopefully all have), benefit is lighter weight (not much, but free, can't beat that).

Anyone care to follow?

I'll state the obvious. Anything you remove to reduce weight is free. AC, carpet, blower motors, etc. There are lots of threads on loosing weight.

Get it tuned up just right.

The shift linkage bushing cost around $50 and if you're shifting is balky it's slowing you down.

You could replace your brake fluid with ATE for under $50 if you do it yourself.

$50 isn't a lot of money when it comes to a 911. I guess that most of these things are maintenance not modification... I can fill up the tank with gas and have enough left over for a beer. That'll make me think I'm faster... :rolleyes:

-maybe brighter H4 bulbs & relays so they don't melt your turn signal switch.
-engine lid & hood shocks to save my head from a beating
-sport seats were a <$50 upgrade for me, as I sold the stock seats for the same price. :)

CoolCollar!!:D :D

Jeff

Proper tire balance, although I don't know if you can always get that done for under $50 any more.

new plugs and a bottle of Techron. :D

single battery conversion and battery relocation to the smugglers on my '72. Free. removed ~60lbs from the car and distributed another ~60 pounds closer to the center of the car.

Here's a couple.

1) I found & bought an extra Mann air filter cover ($10). Hacksawed the "arm"/tube off then used a drimmel the strip the gunk & paint down to the metal. Result: less restricted airflow & seems to run noticeably better. Sounds a bit better too.

2) (Not sure if this one qualifies) I have an old Marelli dist. It has a fairly user serviceable rotor. Used the drimmel again with a wire brush. Disassembled the rotor, cleaned all the parts/contacts & the contacts in the cap as well. Thoroughly cleaned out all the dust and popped it back together. (cleaned up the plugs as well) Much improved starting and idling. Kind of bad weather right now so I'm not sure if it's improved in driving conditions.

http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1105217849.jpg

After a car wash and wax, I notice a considerable increase in power. Dyno sheets to come.........

Swepco oil for the transmision can often help smooth out those shifts. Puts off that rebiuld for a while.

Set up your pedal assem. for better heal and toe. factory settings make it almost impossible to heal toe correctly. It's free and will make you alot faster if you know how to do it right
steve

A rosary over the mirror and a plastic holy mary on the dash.

Making sure your throttle is adjusted correctly so you get full throttle when you floor it - free.
-Chris

I removed the almost useless foglights and fabricated a duct that forces all of the air from the right opening to pass through the Carrera oil cooler.

I made a couple of templates out of cardboard to get the shape/ bends and hole positions and the local tin knocker gave me a piece of galvanized sheet stock, I bent it in my brake (ahem... vice) and used the two bolts on the bottom of the oil cooler to secure it. I put sticky backed foam on the edges to seal it and prevent wear to the painted surfaces. I got some heavy woven screen and filled the openings to keep stones out.

This winter I plan to adapt the right duct and make a diverter for the left side to get air blowing onto the brakes.

The cost was $0 and it probably took 2 hours.

hey Ji how about some pics?
steve

Alignment, check tire presure, repack your front wheel bearings

5 of the 20 prongs on a SteveW chip?

$29 sheet of ABS plastic to flatten out the underbelly of my car. With about a dozen self-tapping screws and some aluminum pieces for mounting, the cost was still well south of $50 -- and it made the car a full second per lap faster at my local track.

My car is unusual in that it has an underbelly AC condenser, which made the old aero worse than stock.

Jim,
I too would absolutely love to see pictures of your project!!!

I'll try to get some pictures tomorrow and post them.