Removing the targa bar?

[ianc]

Hi Folks,

My targa bar has been bugging me for some time, so I think it's time to get it powder-coated. I haven't removed one of these before, but it seems like it should be fairly straightforward.

I believe there are 4 10 mm. nuts under the fenders to remove, the rubber seal\cover around the back of it needs to go, and similarly the front seal needs to be removed.

Any little tips or unexpected snags I might see before I dive in? Thanks for the help,

ianc

[KevinP73]

If you have a build up of road grime, it might be a good idea to wash under the quarters first to make seeing the nuts a bit easier. Also once you have all the attaching hardware removed, it might be a good idea to have a buddy on the other side of the car to help lift the targa band evenly and to avoid scratching your paint.
Other than that it's not too hard to do.

[cgarr]

Get ready to weld some new studs on it, the studs are not stainless and may break off.

Craig

[Brother]

Post some pictures when you get this off if you have a minute.

[frankc]

I agree, spray lots of WD-40 on the studs under the quarters and let soak for a a few day. Clean off as much of the grime/rust as possible. I ended up breaking most of mine off when trying to remove the bar.

[autobonrun]

Unless you must have it powder coated, another option is to paint it in place. I was basically too lazy to go through the entire removal process. My bar was worn down to the metal on the curved portion. I used the Wurth Satin Black Trim Paint sold here on Pelican. I did a good job taping everything off and put a little vaseline over the Targa name that wiped off with the excess paint. I did clean the bar several times with soap and water and wet sanded the paint until it was smooth and even; not all the way to the metal but just until the surface felt smooth. The Wurth paint gives the bar a satin finish which I understand was the stock look. Just another option that may save some time and effort.

[scottb]

Originally posted by frankc
I agree, spray lots of WD-40 on the studs under the quarters and let soak for a a few day. Clean off as much of the grime/rust as possible.

I agree you should soak them before trying to remove the nuts, but PB Blaster will likely be more effective than WD40. YMMV.

[ianc]

Hi All,

Thanks for the tips indeed!

Autobonrun, I did in fact paint the thing just like you 3 or 4 years back, but my prep was probably not as good as yours and I'm afraid it just didn't last:



I will indeed take care regarding the studs as suggested. What about the largish plastic rounds with the phillips heads in them along the forward sides of the bar? Anything special about them?

I'll post further pictures as I go,

ianc

[frankc]

If I remember correctly, the platic plugs are for attaching a ski rack or something for the Targas. I don't recall any difficulty in removing them.

Frank

[KevinP73]

Originally posted by ianc
What about the largish plastic rounds with the phillips heads in them along the forward sides of the bar? Anything special about them?

They WILL break off, but they are inexpensive and easy to get so don't fret it.

[Brother]

looks like the body paint is oxidizing as well. Where is this car?

[cactusdtd]

audubonrun,

do you wet sand between coats of the satin black?

[Bobboloo]

Not sure on the later cars but the early cars also had several metal screws behind the Targa bar to roof seal.

[ianc]

Hi Brother,

The paint is a bit rough, but overall looks pretty good:



Car lives in Marin county.

ianc

[Brother]

A red car in a blue county!

I'm interested to see the bolts that are needed to remove the bar when you get there.

I don't think you need to wet sand until the last coat is on, but I haven't done this myself.

[autobonrun]

Originally posted by cactusdtd
audubonrun,

do you wet sand between coats of the satin black?

I did wet sand between coats. It's been awhile but I think I used 320 or 400 grit before the initial coat then 600 grit between coats.

[ianc]

Well, here's an update. I was planning to do this tomorrow, but since my roommate bought a new stereo for his 911 and was out in the driveway installing it (and we had some sun for once), I decided to give it a whirl.

It actually wasn't that bad to get the thing off; took maybe an hour and a half. I got very lucky with the 4 10 mm.s, they all came off nicely without breaking, and after removing the front 10-15 sheet metal screws and a bit of tugging and tapping, it finally came off.

Here's a shot of the 4 10's underneath. They're the ones closest to the sidewall, the others hold the trim piece on.



Here's what the mounting point of the bar looks like when removed:



Now just a little bead blasting then off to the powder coaters. Will post more shots as things progress,

ianc

[KevinP73]

If you have it sand blasted or bead blasted be sure to tell the blaster to use a lower pressure and a low angle of attack when they do the bar. Too much pressure or a high angle of attack will warp the part. Ask me how I know.
Also while your up under there you might want to spray a little rust converter on the rust thats stating to grow.

[ianc]

Hi Kevin,

Thanks for the tip as I will be doing the blasting myself.

No rust under there, it's galvanized and a CA car. I think what you're seeing is just some dirt and leaves.

ianc

[Brother]

Do you guys wax your targa bar when you do the car?