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Best way to Clean CV on the half axle??
While checking which oil return tubes were leaking I saw that the outer boot on the passenger side CV joint was ripped open. Don't think it'd been ripped open too long.
I've pulled the half axle and taken the inner CV joint off. Now I want to clean all the old grease out of the outter joint. What's the best way to do it in the home garage? Someone told me Purple Power from Pep Boys works great. If so can it just soak or will I need to get more agressive in the cleaning process?
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Randy 2000 323i |
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I did the same repair on mine. On the outers I used a bunch of paint thinner and a tooth brush. I don't think you can count on not using a little mechanical effort, CV lube is thick stuff.
The rebuild kits (boots, clips) from Pelican came with a pre-measured amount of lube -- very easy. Recommendation: Get your kit together before you begin. Music, rubber gloves (lots), lots of paper towels, big trash bag. Beverage of choice.
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Whoever answers this, do you have to clean it all out if you have just taken it off for an engine drop? Also, what do you repack it with?
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Somatic Negative Optimist
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It depends when the repacking was done the last time; use Moly based grease. If the CV's have not been cleaned and repacked for a long time, the grease becomes very liquid; time to redo it.
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Re: Best way to Clean CV on the half axle??
Quote:
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Another question: Does any of the outer joint come apart for easier cleaning? - Like the inner flange maybe?
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Randy 2000 323i |
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do you have to clean it all out if you have just taken it off for an engine drop?
- no. but is it really old grease in there? if so, then it's best to wipe it all out of there. repack with a good cv joint (high pres.) grease -- lots of threads on this....
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"A man with his priorities so far out of whack doesn't deserve such a fine automobile." - Ferris Bueller's Day Off Last edited by randywebb; 01-16-2005 at 04:33 PM.. |
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how important is it that ALL the previous grease be reomoved? i have my axles apart right now and they cleaned up real nice with some remaining grease.
fwiw, to contribute to this post, re-greasing requires 3.2 oz per joint. 2/3 in th eboot and 1/3 at the ends. special tubes can be bought at pep boys in 4 oz tubes at $2.99 ea. |
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it is not only the old grease you are concerned with cleaning out of it, but the contamination that occurs when the boot is torn open from dirt, water, etc. You shoud try to clean it completely.
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Joe 996 GT3 RSR |
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Right. Note that we have two separate questions going here - one relates to a torn boot (with grit no doubt), the other to a 'while you're in there' thing during an engine drop (probably no grit, and unclear how old the grease is).
BTW, I was never able to get any petroleum company to tell me how often to change the grease at very low mileage. So, I think it's safe to go by the shelf life of the grease if you put very low miles/year on your car. I'm told that is about 5 years for most greases. If you don't know the age of the grease, then an engine drop is a good time to revisit your childhood mudpie making ...
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Randy,
What are you using to torque that bolt holding the half shafts? 339 ft-lb is a lot. I ask because I have to repack my CVs and repair one boot. I am wondering what I can use to torque the bolt.
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339 ft-lb? You must mean the axle nut. I've never taken it loose on my car. Others have used a big socket and a bar with someone standing on it (e.g. 2 feet long, person weighing 169.5 lbs).
I always take the CV loose by taking out the 6 bolts on each side. There are lots of posts on the various tips & tricks to use on the CV's.
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I don't know how everyone else does it, but I cleaned out all of the old grease (from the fixed outer CV joint) by using diesel fuel. I put some diesel fuel in a jug, then submerged the outside of the half-axle into it and pretended like I was churning butter with it...moving the joint back and forth on the axle and using lots of rags. Messy, but it worked great...then I blew out the joint with compressed air, and let it dry completely before repacking. Hope this helps...
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blew out the joint with compressed air...
- don't let dry bearings spin from the air if you do this. FWIW, I used a solvent tank then hot water and dish detergent to get the solvent off. There are many ways to get all the old grease off -- but, it doesn't have to be ultra-surgical-scrub clean anyway. Just wiping it all out carefully should be fine.
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Quote:
I used the butter churn method also to clean out the joint. For the axel nut, I stood on a 1/2" breaker bar with a cheater bar attached (with the wheel on the ground!).
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In my mind your wasting your time if you don't take them fully apart.
You cannot properly inspect, clean, and regrease unless they are apart. If they are throw away parts (you know you'll replace them soon anyway) then perhaps just shooting some grease in there is okay.
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A completely rebuilt axle is cheap enough that when they are out, just replace them.
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Joe 996 GT3 RSR |
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okay figured out how to remove bearing case from cv for thorough cleaning. jacko241 - figure this job is going to cost $25 in boots and $15 in grease. that's a lot cheaper than $800 for 1 pair of complete axles.
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How's this:
Don't blow air into the dry bearings and let them spin as it can cause increased wear. Some people just replace them -- others cut their own keys, and make blower fans out of frying pans....
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I am actually in the auto repair biz, I have owned my shop for almost 25 yrs., and I can get any of the 911 axles rebuilt for 149.00 each.
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