Besides dropping in a 993 setup what is
 

the ultimate suspension for an earlier 911 with Carrera flairs? It will be driven on the street and a DE/track car.

With all the changes in bushings/mono balls and what is available now over a couple of years ago what is the ultimate setup today?

Let's start with wheels. 8 and 10 x 17's or will something wider fit? 9s and 10s?

Bushings? Coil overs or Tbars? Sways? Struts? What is the best we can do with a narrow body car?

10's are all you're going to get under the rear of Carrera flares, pretty much. But it's hard to make an argument for needing much more than that.

Short of the 993 rear end, the best setup would be Turbo trailing arms with the Smart Racing mounting boxes for improved geometry. 935 springplates, too. Wevo just came up with a cool version of these, I think, but ERP has good ones too. If 33mm rear bars aren't stiff enough, then coil-overs make sense. You've got to reinforce and gusset the shock towers and crossmember. What am I forgetting? Adjustable shocks? Limited Slip? Bushings, monoballs and the like? The list always continues to get longer as you go.

hey Dane, that's easy. just jack up your radiator cap and park a 951...

oh wait, you don't have a radiator cap :D

951?? Hahhahhhaaaaahahahhaaahhhaah 951? Porsche showing Chevy how to build a Vette. Sadly it still isn't a 911 :)

Thanks for the suggestions Jack.
I'll have to ask the resident ""Evil jenius" what majic he'd suggest.

Don't listen to me because I'm MUCH slower than Jack........but, here's a couple of thoughts.

Trailing Arms:
Since the 930 trailing arms are shorter, won't they have more camber change per inch of suspension travel? I thought that maybe 911 trailing arms might be preferable for this reason(less camber change during suspension movement).

Springs:
Without going coilovers, I'd put in the polybronze bushings. Take the time to fit them perfectly. Monoballs may be kind of rough for the street. How tough are you? :)

If you are going to go coilovers you probably want to spend some serious time figuring out how to stiffen the chassis. I would think it would be worth it to stiffen more than just the shock towers and crossmember. The body wasn't originally designed to carry the shock loads through those points. The RSRs were modified to include these braces, but I would think bracing further back into the body structure would help more. No structural analysis, just gut feel.

Shocks:
Custom valved Bilsteins for your specific combination or maybe the JRZ or Fox double adjustables. I'd prefer the adjustments, but they are a lot more expensive. Now why doesn't Bilstein have PSS9s for my 79SC?

Other upgrades:
I've heard a Ty$on upgrade works really well........

well, who better than Porsche...

as for that TonkaToy thing, know why 951ers don't contemplate such mods?

and this banter is helpful?

BTW, if you want to price out a local 993 suspension transplant, call
Henry Luft at B&H motorsports. I don't know the cost. BTW, he's done quite a few -

There is no one-size-fits-all. For a street / DE car things like durability and low-maintenance are important. What is best for the serious racer is not always best for the street / DE car.

I would pass on the coil overs, they won't add any performance but will create a lot of overhead in terms of reinforcing the chassis. These make sense for the serious racer who wants to quickly change spring rates and set ride height trackside. That doesn't sound like you.

I'd also pass on the dual/triple adjustable shocks. These are great for the serious racer who knows how to tune them and will do so for each track visited. Again, this doesn't sound like your game plan.

Too many things to adjust can be worse than not enough. Spend your time having fun and learning to drive the car faster, and avoid chasing your tail tweaking shocks and springs. Keep life simple, and have fun.

I'd advise torsion bars with custom valved bilstein or koni single adjustables. Sizes tbd.

Polybronze bearings all around and weathersealed trailing arm monoballs are a given.

Quality adjustable sway bars front and rear, there are several nice ones on the market.

Out back:

factory adjustable spring plates
aluminum trailing arms

Up front,

raised spindles
decambered ball joints
tie-rod end bumpsteer kit
triangulated strut brace
Monoballs for strut tops or offset camber plates, depending on tire selection

Combine with proper ride height, corner balance and performance alignment, this setup will give you great performance and will be low-maintenance and easy to live with.

Choose the tbars properly and match with correct shock valving and you'll have good street ride quality to boot.

Agree with all Chuck offered.
Here is a thread with much of the serious and expensive hardware.

It is OK Jeremy. Ronin has only driven 2 real cars. He is in denial at the moment :)

Thanks guys, good stuff. Anything been missed so far?

sorry Jeremy, just having a little fun at Dane' s expense trying to get even for the evil he perpetrated on Friday. I got to play in RussianBlue's 3.6 convo for a few minutes while he and Dane were at the shop, and Dane just had to rub my nose in it before I could even say one word! you wouldn't expect me to just take that sitting down, would you? ;)


yeah Dane. too bad yours wasn't one of 'em :D

Dumb question which I should know but, are SC trailing arms aluminum?

I wish I knew for sure, (probably wrong on this) but didn't the aluminum trailing arm first appear on the 964?

The SC trailing arms are aluminum.

Jeff

DOH! no cookie for me

No problem - was just interested to see what was recommended - Thanks Chuck...

Something like this would be nice, notice anything different?
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1105972414.jpg
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/uploa...1105972508.jpg

W-oww. Rigid chassis. At what point do these projects stop?
Haven't quite figured this out on mine. They don't!:p

This thread helps my setup, Chuck. Sounds like I have only a triangulated brace and the group of your goods -- and I am effectively done. Got the single adjust raised spindle JRZs - rebuilt - at a good price. I'll skip the coil-overs at least for now -

Quote from Steve Weiner:
"There is no reason a properly setup torsion bar car cannot be as good as a coil over setup"

Quote from Steve Weiner:
"There is no reason a properly setup torsion bar car cannot be as good as a coil over setup"

I don't think I have a properly setup t-bar car. :)

If you have raised spindles, does that reduce the need for the bump steer kit? After Craigs ride, not sure I want this set up on my car.

How do you determine the correct damper valving? I'd like to put on 29mm T-bars in back and would like to get my dampes valved to match. How do you know?

I like the way the cage is tied into the torsion bars AND the shocks...

Don -

Don't let the ride in my car dissuade you!
You felt a lot of harshness from the stupid dry urethane bushings.
And the stiff track shock setting/dialup I had.

I drove a 930 with my same setup but with the full Elephant setup.....supple. A huge, major, difference.

IMO one nice thing about adjustable F&R is...the adjustability.
In lieu of that I really like the Bilstein Sport for front, and 'Rally' for rear.