Multiple suspension brake advice needed

[drummer323]

This is a follow up post with advice for next stage needed. Here is the premise of the car:

1971 "T" tub, converted to slant nose/short hood in fiberglass, rear 3.8 RS lid/tail in fiberglass, 930S steel boxed rockers, 935 rear fenders, wheels are Etoile 5 spoke with 11X8 running yokohama avs 225/15 in front and 11X15 with 345/15 in rear. Upgraded to front aluminum crossmember, and rear aluminum trailing arms with 15mm rear wheel spacers.. Rear shocks are Koni adjustables, and frunt struts are Koni adjustables from a '69 "S" with 3.5" ear spacing. Of course braided brake lines, turbo tie rods, cross drilled rotors all new bearings and seal installed as well and also camber plates in front and monoballs in rear on banana arms as well as a tri-angulated front strut brace. I am also running 22mm front and rear adjustable weltmeister sway bars. Motor conversioin is a 3.2S/S with a turbo mated to a 915 tranny. Here is my questions.

1. I have picked up C2 front and rear calipers as well as a 23mm master cylinder. Rears need to be modified to fit trailing arms (VCI most likely for fitment hardware) Is this a suitable braking system with these mods?

2. I'm looking at Elephant racing hollow torsion bars. What size should I run? This is a street car and I am considering 22/28/or 22/30. I have their front bushings and will be installing the rears as well to go along with my front camber plates and rear mono-balls.

3. I need adjustable spring plates and wondering which would be better, factory or sway away?

4. Final question is which rotor's to get, Will carrera rotors work better in this application?

Thanks for the advice. John.

[IROC]

Originally posted by drummer323
2. I'm looking at Elephant racing hollow torsion bars. What size should I run? This is a street car and I am considering 22/28/or 22/30. I have their front bushings and will be installing the rears as well to go along with my front camber plates and rear mono-balls.

3. I need adjustable spring plates and wondering which would be better, factory or sway away?

For a street (only) car, I would offer that 22/28 torsion bars are about as big as you need to go. Depending on your definition of "comfort", you might even consider 21/27.

I have the Sway-A-Way adjustable spring plates on my car (I have had them on there for over 10 years) and have never had any problems. They give you alot of adjustment, also.

Mike

[Chuck Moreland]

How are you using the car? Street, track, mix?

[drummer323]

Hi Chuck. The car will be street or should I say basically a street driven race car.

[Chuck Moreland]

For your car on the street, I'd go 21/29. This will give you plenty of control, without being overly harsh. 29 out back will handle the extra weight of your motor/tail and reduce squat that the extra power will try to create.

[drummer323]

Thanks Chuck. I will be purchasing some products from you very shortly.

[drummer323]

Of course I will also be getting parts for this from our host as well! Wanted to clarify that!

[Bill Verburg]

. I have picked up C2 front and rear calipers as well as a 23mm master cylinder. Rears need to be modified to fit trailing arms (VCI most likely for fitment hardware) Is this a suitable braking system with these mods?

If by C2 you mean 964 then the front calipers also need major modification. If you mean 993. Then only 930 size rotors and adaptors are needed.

VCI can mod the rears by milling off the ears and converting to radial mount, this is expensive. Another cheaper alternative is to fill the existing mounting holes and redrill for the 3" trailing arm spacing.

In addition if you start w/ 993 rears rather than 965 the throat will need to be opened up a bit.

[drummer323]

Hi Bill the fronts were already done and modified when I purchased them '89-90 and he was using them with regular cross drilled rotors and they fit under the 15" wheels. I believe the rears I have gotten ahold of are '91 and newer. What will be involved with this conversion. Will the throat need opened up? Who does the filling and re-drilling? That was what I had hoped for from a price standpoint and I wanted to stick to matching fronts and rears with the extra power from the motor which should be more than powerful in my lightweight "T".

[Bill Verburg]

Again 964 or 993, I guess it doesn't make any difference as far as the throats are concerned but it does make a difference for the rotors used.

Yes, for use w/ a 309x28mm thick 930 rotor either 964 or 993 rear needs to open up the throat a little.

Regular cross drilled has no meaning 304x32? or whatever does

[drummer323]

Sorry, stock rotors that are drilled like you see on good'ol ebay.