Speed Bleeders part numbers

[Freybird]

Quick question:

The speed bleeder web site (linked to from the Pelican catalog) states that front bleeders part # is SB8125LL -late 75-89
Rear bleeders part# is SB7100

Before placing my Pelican order I'd realized that PEL SB8125LL is listed for front and rear. Are front and rear on my '86 the same?
Should I also be ordering PEL-SB7100?

Thanks

[BoyTarga]

I can't help with the partnumbes as the ones I just installed were on an '81. I had a hard time reading through the MY for each part number too. Mine did work and fit when I got them. I can tell you this, you will love them. I bled the brakes after a braided line install by myself in about 15 to 20 minutes going twice around. The brakes feel nice and tight now. Sure does make bleeding easy.

[Freybird]

Thanks for the positive words Greg!
Sounds like they're going to be great.
Did you find more air in the system while going around the second time?

[BoyTarga]

To be honest, that is one down side to these valves. You are in the car pumping the brakes and can not see if air is coming out or not. After I went aroudn twice, I just locked everything down and judged by how the brakes "felt". I still have to drive it on the road to be sure, but the feel rock solid in the garage. Alos, since I replaced the brake lines during this, I pushed quite a bit of fluid through the first time around just to make sure.

[konish]

I have a set on my SC, and it's kind of an oxymoron. If I had an assitant that could help me with the brake pedal while I personally examine the amount of air coming out of the system, I would not need them. As it stands, the nature of the bleeders makes it so one guy CAN do the job alone (vice using the old "broom-handle-wedged-into-the-seat-back-method"), and therefore means that some of the process has to happen on faith in the prodcut working as advertised.

Actually I bought mine to save myself the inevitable fight that would have ensued if I asked my wife to help with the brake bleed...:-)

R/
Dustin

[einreb]

The #'s on Pelican were wrong when I ordered mine for my '88. I returned them. I don't know if they fixed the part numbers.

[sammyg2]

When you buy them make sure you don't order 4, they come in pairs.
I now have a spare set of brand new speed bleeders for an SC sitting in my garage that I don't have any use for. DOH!

[89turbocabmike]

Freybird, have you checked out the Motive power bleeder? At around $45 you can bleed any car without doubt of whether all the air is out. I've used speed bleeders on a few cars in the past and they did the job, but the motive makes life sooo much easier. You can do a complete fluid change in 15 minutes and setup takes two minutes. Also you will avoid the possibility of damaging your master cylinder seals from excess travel(never happened to me). I have to say that the Motive power bleeder was one of the most satisfying tool purchases I've every made, and I've got a lot of tools!

[LakeCleElum]

89TooLongANameToType: My question on power bleeder has always been "Will the cap fit a variety of different makes?". I checked the Motive web site (http://www.motiveproducts.com/) and still have that question. I've used a vacum hand pump for the past few years and of course it fits all my motorcycles, snowmobiles, 911, Toyota p/u and Honda Accord.

Can we get a little discussion on how the power bleeders fit on various models?

Thax...Bob S.

[bill3667]

I know this has been discussed before but a quick search couldn't find it...

I've used both speed bleeders and the Motive Power bleeder, of the 2 if I can get the cap to fit I prefer the Motive.

Speed Bleeders - as said before you can't see what's coming out of the bleed screw w/o help. Also, you usually push the pedel all the way to the floor which causes the rubber (?) cups in the master cyl to go where they don't normally go. There is crud down there that can either brake free or it causes wear/bad sealing of the master cyl. seals and CAN cause the MC to need rebuild/replace. I do use them on my motorcycle since I can't get a Motive cap to fit the bike and I can still see the fluid coming out w/ speed bleeders.

Motive - getting a cap to fit is the biggest down side however I've used the universal cap & chain that Motive has on my Tahoe and old 4-Runner w/o a big problem. Just wrap the chain around the resovour (sp?) only if the res. sits on top the MC otherwise you can spring a leak at the res. to MC seals. (DAMHIK) I do wish the Motive had a pressure release valve on the side so you son't have to loosen the cap to releave pressure. You also have far less chance of running out of fluid in the res. if you use the Motive vs. SB/pedal method.

HTH,
Bill W.

[efhughes3]

The Pelican numbers are STILL wrong. I tried installing mine today, which I purchased recently, and the one pair (SB7100) is too small. I believe the "7" in the part # refers to the diameter (7mm) and it's too small. Both should be 8mm. Length on the fronts and rears aren't the same, I believe, so 4 of the same part # won't work.

Speed Bleeder's website appears to be wrong also, that's probably why Pelican's numbers are bad.

[frankc]

I have used the Motive Power Bleeder on several cars, but they are either Porsche or BMW, so the "euro" cap made it easy.

Don't forget to seal off the overflow tube on the 911 reservoir, o/w you'll end up with a big puddle. Don't ask me how I know.

[Joe V]

It's October 2009 and the part numbers are still wrong. Both front AND rears should be 8x1.25. Or maybe our cars are all wrong?

[tomphot]

Just order 2 sets for the front and and they will work for the front and back.

[Kraftwerk]

Reviving an old thread. Seems the sticker and/or part number is wrong on the package. I've now bought six pairs of speed bleeders. Only the front ones were the correct size. On My SC I am almost certain the fronts are different from the rear. What size is need for the rear?
Thanks.

Jt