Oil lines removal

Argeo · 02-16-2005, 04:56 AM

As I had mentioned in an early post, my oil lines need to be fixed because some moron jacked the car up using the oil lines as support. Anyways, I am thinking the best way to go about this is to remove everything from the motor and oil tank, and the whole cooler in the front. Any cautions I should know about? I had removed the line that connects to the motor last year so that at least shouldn't be too bad.

Thanks,

David

crashmy911 · 02-16-2005, 06:37 AM

use lots of heat

Argeo · 02-16-2005, 06:45 AM

Now this is where I get thrown. Do I use a blow torch? Do I heat until red hot? Do I just warm up?

Thanks,

David

Chuck Moreland · 02-16-2005, 07:26 AM

I'm not a fan of heat on oil lines. Especially on the tstat, it is male-threaded aluminum that has higher coefficient of expansion than the steel tube nut around it - heating actually makes the tube nut tighter.

Plus significant heat leaves cooked oil residue inside the lines.

If you are trashing the crushed oil lines, just cut the tube nuts off and gaurantee the safety of your thermostat. Use a cuttoff wheel to slit the side of the tube nut - not too deep. Then knock it off with cold chisel.

Otherwise a liberal dose of pb blaster allowed to soak for a couple days will be a big help.

Argeo · 02-16-2005, 07:31 AM

Thanks Chuck,
Can a crushed piped be fixed on the car by cutting out the area and welding in a new piece or is that to risky?

Thanks,

David

Chuck Moreland · 02-16-2005, 07:43 AM

I would certainly remove the pipes from the car before attempting that. You'll want to clean the inside of the pipe when you are done. Use brass for the repair peice and braze or silver solder.

Argeo · 02-16-2005, 08:26 AM

Thanks Chuck.

Paul Valcourt · 02-16-2005, 10:18 AM

Depending on the location and the size of your tube, you may be able to find compression fittings that will work to connect the replaced section. This will alleviate the need to remove the pipes or use solder/weld. A good hydraulic supply store should have them.

Argeo · 02-16-2005, 10:20 AM

What are compression fittings? How do they worked?

Thanks.

Argeo · 02-16-2005, 10:23 AM

Oh, the area that is crushed is right where the jack support is. That approx. 5 inch between the two areas where the pipe curves upward.

Paul Valcourt · 02-16-2005, 10:47 AM

Here is a quote on what a compression fitting is. "Compression fittings are used with medium to hard tubing. Just insert the tubing into the compression fitting and tighten nut; the nut and sleeve form a seal around tubing OD. Select fitting materials according to the conditions fittings will be used in, such as temperature and pressure". All you need is the room to insert your replacement piece and the fittings on each end of it and be able to tighten the nuts on the fittings. The attached compression fitting is a tee (which you do not need) what you need is a tube to tube fitting.

Argeo · 02-16-2005, 10:51 AM

Usually I would run with it but since it is the blood line of the car, are there any negative opinions on this from anyone? I would think it would work. Saw the old piece out, clean and put on new piece.

Paul Valcourt · 02-16-2005, 10:56 AM

Installed properly these fittings do not leak and can withstand the pressures and temperatures a 911 oil system can produce easily. Also they are available in stainless steel for more money.

scottb · 02-16-2005, 01:59 PM

If you have to replace the lines, you should consider Elephant Racing's products. (Chuck Moreland is far too modest and didn't make that suggestion!!

)

randywebb · 02-16-2005, 03:25 PM

We've used compression fitting frequently for high vac, and for high purity type things in stationary applications - they work well. No experience on a car... You could also get a fill piece brazed on....

GMR911 · 02-16-2005, 06:32 PM

Hi, did the same job last year. Took the oil lines of from the oil tank and engine with two large cresent wrenches. Used PB blaster on nuts first- lines came off with small amount of force. Bough an 8 foot piece of brass tubing, with a ID of .75 in. Had the local hydraulic shop cut out the dented areas on both lines( essentially they put in a 3' piece in one line and a 2' piece in the other) They flanged both ends of the new brass tubes about an inch, slipped it over the factory tubing and brazed the ends. Came out very nice. Just make sure if you cut the pipes you keep the orientation of the pipes the same, not to twist the pipes . Jerry

mike f · 02-16-2005, 08:22 PM

Like most topics, this one has come up before. I remembered a couple of years back someone offered up a neat solution to this problem. Here is a link to the thread and specifically the technique I thought seemed pretty straight forward.

Quote:

Hello 82SC,

The way I fixed mine was the same way Motorcycle shops repair expensive mufflers.
Remove the oil line and flush it out. Next you need to fabricate two plugs one that is closed and one that will accept a fitting for attaching your air hose off a air compressor. install the plug on one of the ends and on the other install the air fitting plug.
Apply localized heat source to the area that is damaged. once its nice and hot almost red but not quite. open the air valve and pressurize to about 10-15 psi. continue to heat and like magic it will pop right back to original shape. let cool reinstall and your on your way..

Good luck..Jorge (Targa Dude)

I have never tried it, but it makes sense to me to give it a shot and possibly save yourself some $$.