What is it in the high/low beam switch that fails? And can it be repaired?
 

My switch is dead. Started dying by having no high beam actuation when pushed forward, jiggled a bit then high beam worked, then high beam died again, now low beams don't work, either.

If I pull the switch back to the "flash" position, the highs will go on.

What is it that fails inside of these? Are they just burnt/corroded contacts? If so, can they be cleaned up (like a power window switch can) and made functional again?

Or is it a lost cause and replacement time?

I took mine apart and discovered that wear and melting of some of the plastic components was doing it in.

I cleaned and bent the contacts a little and trimmed the melted plastic to fix the problem but the switch was a bit flakey after the repairs.

I recomend replacing it if yours has gone bad.

Brian,

I don't know if I can answer your question as I have not taken one apart but if the switch is easily removable, you are welcome to try mine to see if that is your problem assuming that they are the same design. Is this related to your other problem in the other thread you started.

Chris

Brian,

you can 'adjust' the contacts if they have not broken. From memory you only need to remove the steering wheel to do this. Once you can see them & figure out how they're supposed to work its about a 2 min. job to get the gap right.

You don't need to remove the switch for this.

Yeah, it's related to the fuse popping on the left side running side circuit. At the beginning of the day, I just had the popping fuse. Now I have that AND no headlights. How's that for progress!

Chris, thanks for the kind offer. Doing some searches, it seems like replacing the switch is kind of tedious. Given the amount of labor, and the fact that the switch seems undeniably bad, I'm now inclined to just put a new one in. 17+ years of service for the switch isn't bad. Appreciate the offer, though!

From what has happened, it seems to me something has broken loose in the switch, and is causing the running lights to short out. I'm hoping that's it. Then replacing the switch will give me headlights back AND solve my running light fuse problem.

My high beam/low beam switch also burned out. I pulled it out and discovered that the heat of carrying the full headlight load across the contacts had melted the plastic arm that lifts the contacts when the lever is pulled. The result was that only low beam was available.

The solution was to disassemble the switch by drilling out the brass rivets and fabricating a new plastic arm from bakelight.

I then installed headlight relays to unload the switch and prevent a re-occurance.

On an aside headlight relays are the way to go as the headlights are soooo much brighter and produce a satisfying relay click when switched.

Steve Hall hit the mark....

The switch carries full headlight "load" ...as delivered from he factory.

If you "fix" or replace the switch..it will reappear as a problem unless you also add a set of headlight relays that reduce the current draw on the switch ( now used as a simple "on-off" switch) by over a factor of 100X or so........

Wil

On what year (if ever) did Porsche add relays for the headlights from the factory? Are all the 80's 911's and 930's wired direct?

Mike

Wil, I agree. I ordered a relay set from Sucro and I'll install it.

Mike, all of the 80's 911s do not have relays for the headlights (the torsion bar cars, at least. Not sure about the '89 C4).

sounds like I am in the same situation....

Decided to take Mrs Smitty out to eat, and why not take the 911 as the sun is out and she is all fixed up. On the way home I am traveling on a small road so I crank up the high beams (no issue yet) and after a few minutes I approch some oncoming traffic so I switch back to the low beams. The issue is when I did this, the lights suddenly went back to high beams and would not go back to low...and there was a smell of burning wire and a small cloud of smoke from the column. :shock: Fire extinguisher was my first thought but it wasn't needed as it was just that split second. When I got home I turned off the headlamps and tested the other lights (left, right, etc) and they worked fine...even the flash position worked (but it caused the burning wire again) so I released it very quickly. SO...does this sound like the assembly is bad? How difficult to replace?

Yes

rotorhead,
For those of us who are not as gifted as you are in the electrical side of things could you post a diagram and/or provide a write up on the exact procedures that need to be performed in regards to the installation of headlight relays (as well as what parts are needed for this project)? This would be very much appreciated since many of us have this same problem. This may seem like a very easy exercise for you but I have absolutely no idea where to start. I have already purchased a new switch but have not yet installed.

Daryl - the relays are described in many threads - just do a search.

The kit made by Marcus Sucro is the easiest way to add them. His name and contact info will be in the search results. He's a nice guy and helpful - but your car is late enough that it will be obvious and easy.

The elec. system on these cars is a real mess... clearly the weakest, most poorly engineered system on them.

Interesting question... I don't believe Porsche "ever" relayed the headlights throughout the air-cooled years....maybe even beyond.

Wil

I will do that, in the mean time here is a link to the site I used to design my modifications.

http://www.danielsternlighting.com/tech/relays/relays.html


Steve

The Sucro kit comes with some very simple wiring instructions (color coded wires). This link has pix. of it:
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche-911-technical-forum/144559-need-more-light.html

Marcus' website is here: http://members.rennlist.com/msucro1/relaykit.htm

Yes, it sounds like the switch assembly has met its maker. Some people have had luck fixing it by opening the switch up and cleaning the contacts. For my time and money, I decided replacing the switch was the way to go.

It's not a difficult repair. The toughest part is that there are a bunch of wires that go from the high-beam switch to the back of the headlight switch. I had to remove the headlight switch to get to them. Some people (with small hands and lots of patience) have been able to do it without removing the headlight switch. Anyway, swap out the wires one-by-one so as not to get them on wrong. It's slow and tedious, but doing it one at at a time is the only way to go.

Also, now is the time to order and install the Sucro relay kit. It's very simple, and will save your new switch from a similar fate.

Since you have to go slow, this is probably a 2-beer job (including the Sucro kit)...but only in terms of time, not difficulty.

Good luck. Report back on your progress!

My hi lo hit the dumper as well it started when useing the turn signal the hi would go to low ,eventually to only the hi beams work.

Classic symptoms. You can buy the part from our host.